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Really weird fuse blowing/smoke problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter isaac
  • Start date Start date
First, the facts:
Your plugs are NOT firing. Now you must start investigating WHY they're not firing.
Also, you blew another bulb (just because they didn't all go at once proves nothing - each one may have a slightly different tolerance) - this points to an over-voltage - perhaps due to a faulty R/R.

What to do:
If you don't do the following process-of-elimination investigation you'll take double or triple the time to find the problem.
First, test your igniter according to the directions in your manual. You do have a Clymer (or other brand) manual, don't you?. If not, then get one a.s.a.p. - you're going to need it. Until then, see if there are instructions on this site or elsewhere on the net. Based on your descriptions, I'd bet the igniter is toast.
If your igniter is fried then you will have no chance of getting spark even if your R/R and stator are fine (note that these are three separate components: iginiter, R/R and stator).
If your igniter checks out OK, then it is possible (although remote) that your signal generator has died - maybe its wiring is fried.
The voltages you mentioned on the coil wires can be verified against what your manual (or other source) states they should be - do they match?
Have you tried swapping in different coils?
 
nabrams, thanks for the tips.

As far as the blown bulb goes, it's only the one. It hasn't blown anything else. I mentioned that as a new fact because I only fully pulled apart the cluster today to get at it.

I've done a bunch of research on the site in the past day and have found lots of tests on the different parts, and have tested all the ignition components.

The coils came back with a primary resistance of 3.8 and 4.3 ohms. The signal generator has 305 ohms of resistance. I did the 1.5 volt test on the ignitor and it threw no spark. It also heats up when the ignition key is on. I'm guessing it's the ignitor (aka CDI aka ignition module) that's suddenly decided to blow.

Anyway, it looks like I've got three options here: Get a replacement ignitor, get a Dyna S ignition, or open this ignitor up somehow and resolder it.

I've PM'd some people about resoldering and hopefully they'll get back to me. This thing seems pretty difficult to get open without mutilating it since it has seemingly no seams on it, which mean's I'll have to slice it up.

Ideas? Thanks.
 
You might be able to get a used igniter on eBay real cheap. New ones are VERY expensive. I wouldn't even attempt to fix the old one.
Also, you'd better check the R/R and stator as well. If those are bad, you may end up frying the next igniter you get because the voltage on the bike is all screwed up - Definitely worth the effort.
At least you've identified the problem - that's at least half the battle won.
Good luck.
 
Thanks again for all the help, nabrams. It looks like it's definitely narrowed down to the ignitor.

I checked the regulator/rectifier using the continuity test procedures in "the stator papers" section of the garage, and everything appears to be functioning normally. I don't think I can check the stator until I actually get the bike running. Can I?
 
I pretty sure the stator papers list a resistance test (Ohms) for the stator as well (it's further down the tree), which will not require the bike to be running.
 
The ignitor box should not get hot when you turn the key on. It has to be shorted out internally, thats the only thing that could cause it to heat up.
I would not attempt to take it apart. New ones are about $450.00, so I would buy a Dyna S instead.

When you get it running, check the voltage output on the R/R with the engine at 5K rpm. Voltage at the battery terminals should not be greater than 14.8 volts.

Earl


quote="isaac"]

The coils came back with a primary resistance of 3.8 and 4.3 ohms. The signal generator has 305 ohms of resistance. I did the 1.5 volt test on the ignitor and it threw no spark. It also heats up when the ignition key is on. I'm guessing it's the ignitor (aka CDI aka ignition module) that's suddenly decided to blow.

Anyway, it looks like I've got three options here: Get a replacement ignitor, get a Dyna S ignition, or open this ignitor up somehow and resolder it.

I've PM'd some people about resoldering and hopefully they'll get back to me. This thing seems pretty difficult to get open without mutilating it since it has seemingly no seams on it, which mean's I'll have to slice it up.

Ideas? Thanks.[/quote]
 
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