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rear brake issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Clumzi
  • Start date Start date
C

Clumzi

Guest
So, I got the brake pad replaced on my rear brake and ever since its been squealing and working poorly. When I look at the rear rotor, it looks like the pad is only engaging the center of the rotor. Any ideas? -nick
 
It takes a little while for the pads to wear to the profile of the rotor. Of course, this assumes the caliper is working properly. Did you take the caliper apart and clean it out? I'd recommend doing this if the fluid was brown looking since flushing clean fluid though the system won't get all the chunkies out.
 
Hi Mr. Clumzi,

I would suggest a liberal spraying of brake cleaner and bleeding the system. It may be time to rebuild your caliper. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
cool. If I remember correctly, I think the guy who did the job said something along these same lines. I think he said the caliper looked ok, but he said I should take it back to him so he could clean it out and bleed the lines again. I'm not taking it to anyone anymore :). Time for me to learn.
 
I'd throw in that the rebuild kits are fairly cheap, if you have any question rebuild the caliper. Brakes are nothing to play with IMO.
 
I agree with Doctorgonzo & Nessism. It looks like part # 1 is the complete kit to rebuild your brakes. $40.00 shipped is not bad IMO for new OEM pistons and seals. If your pistons look good the seals are only about $16.00 + shipping. They are correct you should check the piston and also check and/or replace at least the seal and dust boot with a complete flush of the system and new fluid. Once you get the pistons out you will be amazed at the brown & nasty junk behind the seal grooves and overall in the system especially if it has never been touched before. :eek: You will be glad you rebuilt them. :)

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
 
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If the rear is pulsing with the brake applied I'd say the disc is warped.
I've had to wait a few days for some brake pads to break in.
Is it impeding the movement of the wheel?
 
If you end up replacing the caliper pistons I'd suggest going stainless steel. Eliminates the rust problem for ever and no need to pfaff around with those tricky-to-install piston boots.
 
hampshirehog said:
If you end up replacing the caliper pistons I'd suggest going stainless steel. Eliminates the rust problem for ever and no need to pfaff around with those tricky-to-install piston boots.
Click to expand...

No dust boot? Crazy. The boot is to keep dirt and grit away from the seal, I don?t see what having stainless pistons would have to do with that.
 
The pads can get cocked in there a bit sideways. Bet if you took the pins that hold the pads in place out and cleaned them, then put things back together that your problem would be solved.

A bit of fine steel wool rubbed on the pins would probably do the trick...
 
The rotor is fine. If it wasn't, I'm sure he would have asked for some money to fix that too :). I have a feeling it is just dirty. A new Clymer is in the mail. The shop manual from BassCliff's site doesn't help with the rear brake 'cause they were different in '77. I'm still POed over loosing that thing. Once I have instructions and an exploded view of the rear brake assembly I'll tackle the thing. -nick
 
Clumzi said:
The rotor is fine. If it wasn't, I'm sure he would have asked for some money to fix that too :). I have a feeling it is just dirty. A new Clymer is in the mail. The shop manual from BassCliff's site doesn't help with the rear brake 'cause they were different in '77. I'm still POed over loosing that thing. Once I have instructions and an exploded view of the rear brake assembly I'll tackle the thing. -nick
Click to expand...

For dirty, scour with fine steel wool (Home Depot), then rinse with Brakecleen or similar product from auto parts store. For rotor and inside of caliper

As far as the exploded view, just go to flatout or bikebandit and look at the fiche. Best exploded view you'll find

Clean the pins as noted above

Typically, the brake hangs up due to contamination, old stiff seal or corroded piston. If , when you disassemble, the piston is not corroded, all you need is the seal and some fresh brake fluid.

Also, pull the rear master cylinder apart and clean out any gunk in there.

I know you're trying to be cheap, but a new brake line is worth it. Braided metal is best.
 
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