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rear master disassembly

  • Thread starter Thread starter buckeyemike
  • Start date Start date
B

buckeyemike

Guest
removed pedal shaft (circlip)and master from bike (see pic) can you remove the inside parts of the master. I can still put a screwdriver in to operate. does this brake down further??
 
another if it helps

another if it helps

pic 2 this is bottom where shaft goes to pedal.
 
havent done it myself yet but maybe this can help


38.gif
 
In the second pic, is there a small silver bowl-looking piece in there? If yes it would seem you have the same problem I encountered when bleeding the brakes on my bike. That little silver bowl has a spring on the other side of it and should pop out when the ring clip was removed. Mine was stuck and took some serious faniggling to get it out and cleaned up to reinstall.

I should have taken some pics when rebuilding my master cylinder. :o
 
thanks alot appreciat it.

thanks alot appreciat it.

not sure how to get #2 out. ideas anyone?
 
To get mine out I sprayed some wd-40 in the hole and then took a pan-head bolt that I had laying around that had a similar curvature to the push-rod. Put it down the hole and tapped it VERY lightly a couple times with a hammer and it popped right out. Just be careful, I wouldn't want you damaging your M/C on my recommendation. Good luck.

Also, be ready, when/if it breaks free it may launch itself out of the M/C body. I know mine nearly went over my head.
 
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I agree with sticking something through the outlet port...only I'd go with a piece of wooden dowel or similar what won't scratch the master cylinder bore if you hit the side.
 
Nessism said:
I agree with sticking something through the outlet port...only I'd go with a piece of wooden dowel or similar what won't scratch the master cylinder bore if you hit the side.
Click to expand...
Ahhh yes, very very good point Ed:oops: I didnt think about that...lol.
 
thanks for help, still not working

thanks for help, still not working

so I have soaked in brake fluid 24 hours. soaked in wd 40 about 30 min. still wont budge. tried to brake loose both ways with wooden dow, all that did was worked the dow into fragments. will not budge. even tried a small long allen wrench with rounded end that fit into banjo hole and pounded alot. yea can compress spring and that moves but wont budge the other end to release. guess corroded in there? so if it does not brake free tomorrow I will try pb blaster and hope that works? what do you guys think about heat? maybe I should buy used one at this point I cant imagine another having this much problem??
 
Haven't done a rear cylinder yet. just a thought have you tried putting compressed air to the banjo bolt hole. dont know if it would work without seeing it in person
 
chef1366 said:
Throw it in some Berrymans or soak it in PB Blaster.
Click to expand...

At this point, the "Berryman's soak" suggestion sounds good - that should eat away the rubber seal & non-metallic crud. If it doesn't come apart after that, then a PB blaster soak should get down there after that...

Of course, you will need a M/C rebuild kit to replace the rubber bits (I assume you already bought one).

Good luck
 
smack it down on a piece of wood with the big end down. this makes a lot more force than the wooden dowel.
 
buckeyemike said:
so I have soaked in brake fluid 24 hours. soaked in wd 40 about 30 min. still wont budge. tried to brake loose both ways with wooden dow, all that did was worked the dow into fragments. will not budge. even tried a small long allen wrench with rounded end that fit into banjo hole and pounded alot. yea can compress spring and that moves but wont budge the other end to release. guess corroded in there? so if it does not brake free tomorrow I will try pb blaster and hope that works? what do you guys think about heat? maybe I should buy used one at this point I cant imagine another having this much problem??
Click to expand...
Sounds like some galvanic corrosion to me. I think that piston is made of Alu, and the bore is made of steel obviously. I can tell you with a carb body i had that had some metal to metal corrosion from exposure to water over time. I have tried EVERYTHING. Boiled it, soaked it in CLR, PB Blaster, Berrymans, etc etc, it simply wouldnt budge. I would suggest hunting up another...
 
hikermikem said:
At this point, the "Berryman's soak" suggestion sounds good - that should eat away the rubber seal & non-metallic crud. If it doesn't come apart after that, then a PB blaster soak should get down there after that...

Of course, you will need a M/C rebuild kit to replace the rubber bits (I assume you already bought one).

Good luck
Click to expand...
IF its seized that badly, likely even when you DO get it apart, there is going to be significant damage to the bore walls, essentially rendering the MC garbage.
 
thanks for all info

thanks for all info

well after the wd 40 soak for 24+ hours I used a rounded in T allen wrench to pound in banjo in after 2-3 whacks broke free. believe it or not it does not look bad on the inside or the rubber. I think that it was just frozen on that outside end. I will reassemble tonight , after a little cleanup and see how it functions dry with slight brake fluid lubricant in it.
 
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