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Rebuilding Fusebox

  • Thread starter Thread starter nate25tenn
  • Start date Start date
N

nate25tenn

Guest
Ok everyone i'm pretty much an electrical noob but I have a general understanding how it works so lets see if my plan would work. My fuxefox was a mess...wrapped in electrical tape and a soldered nightmare. I used paint to draw up how it was wired.



The toggle switch is there because the bike currently has no key. So basically flip switch and hit start button. This will be fixed later but for now it works. I don't understand why the one fuse always has power on top. Didn't think it would matter if the power went off to it so here is what my buddy and I came up with.


Seems to do almost the same thing minus the one wire which is always on. Everything will have power once the switch is flipped. Will this work? The blue squares are the new fuses.
 
The one fuse with power all the time is intended to protect the electrical from the power avaliable from the battery. Basically if you short a wire to ground and the battery is connected you will get 10's of amps running through wire designed for maybe 10-15 amps.

So the red primary running the length of the bike ( from 15 amp fuse to ignition switch) is fused close to the battery so any cut or other short that is likely is on the opposite side of the fuse to the battery.

Look at western beaver fuse boxes with an integrated relay for a better setup.
You should also review the stock wiring diagrams instead of wiring based on what a PO hacked together

You don't show your battery connection but ask your self how much of the harness is exposed with out a fuse between that part of the harness and the battery.
 
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You didn't say what bike this is from, but....did you check Suzuki?

I went through a couple used fuse blocks before I found out that a new one was still available for my 1100E.
It was worth the little extra for peace of mind.:)
 
The diagram suggests you have a main fuse rated at 15 amps which protects the lead to the switch, but beyond the switch there are is a 10A, a 20A and a 30 Amp fuse, which makes no sense at all.

The main fuse has to be of at least as high an amperage rating as the subordinate circuits or the main fuse will blow every time the load through the circuit with higher-rated fuse exceeds the main fuse capacity, leaving you with nothing at all on any circuit.

Generally, there is one fuse for the main feed into the box, with suitable gauge rating on the feed wire, and each of the subordinate fuses will be of lower amperage ratings.
 
argonsagas said:
The diagram suggests you have a main fuse rated at 15 amps which protects the lead to the switch, but beyond the switch there are is a 10A, a 20A and a 30 Amp fuse, which makes no sense at all.

The main fuse has to be of at least as high an amperage rating as the subordinate circuits or the main fuse will blow every time the load through the circuit with higher-rated fuse exceeds the main fuse capacity, leaving you with nothing at all on any circuit.

Generally, there is one fuse for the main feed into the box, with suitable gauge rating on the feed wire, and each of the subordinate fuses will be of lower amperage ratings.
Click to expand...

The first image is how it was when I got it. I've since tracked down another fusebox.
 
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