• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Recommendations, boring, ballancing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
For now yes. Soon ill get some slingshots and a pipe.

Can't seem to find fcr's at a good price.
 
what kinda paint is it? i used rustoleum, and it gets soft when the motor is hot, just to warn ya,.... like it never cures, just gets soft and rubbery
 
Mekanix said:
High temp powdercoat.
Click to expand...

Does that not hold in to much heat?My engine is base clear and it feels like it gets a little hotter than it should.The 569cc GS engine I'm building will be high heat engine paint.
 
Stephen, look for 2 FCRs that are 37mm from 250 four stroke dirtbikes. You will have to get a custom 2 into 1 throttle cable made but that's no big deal. Those carbs go for 200 & less on EBay. Just find 2 from the same model 250. Ray.
 
be careful what carbs you get , lots of those have electronics , im sure there is something out there
 
ben2go said:
Does that not hold in to much heat?My engine is base clear and it feels like it gets a little hotter than it should.The 569cc GS engine I'm building will be high heat engine paint.
Click to expand...


actually it would be nicer just blasted aluminum ,and factory black, paint does hold in some heat, and you dont need to worrie about touching it up
 
rapidray said:
Stephen, look for 2 FCRs that are 37mm from 250 four stroke dirtbikes. You will have to get a custom 2 into 1 throttle cable made but that's no big deal. Those carbs go for 200 & less on EBay. Just find 2 from the same model 250. Ray.
Click to expand...

The guy that I am working with to build my 569cc has a set of 36 FCRs from a snow machine.We're gonna break in the engine with a heavily modified set of 36mm GSXR carbs.
 
the electric carbies cost more , and isnt used for electronics, so why bother ,and waste money was my point, there are tons of carbs out there you know
 
Last edited:
platinum2 said:
the electric carbies cost more , and isnt used for electronics, so why bother ,and waste money was my point, there are tons of carbs out there you know
Click to expand...

None of my carbs are electric or electric operated.
 
You guys already know this I'm sure, but I'm just stating it: the later GS500 carbs (with the TPS) are "3 jet" carbs. When was it? Around the year 2000 that they swapped? They added a mid-main jet for smoother / better performance.

Kind of a moot point though. Pretty much any modern carb is better than stock from the early 80's.
 
Anything with TPS would be good from a tuning standpoint... get an AFR setup and the TPS will help no end when collecting that data.

Go to www.wbo2.com and you can have a kit version AFR setup with half an hour's data logging and external display from $AU279.90... including the new type Bosch LSU4.9 sensor... make up a sniffer pipe for the sensor if you don't have a bung in the pipe and all good to go!
 
Or...............








you could just delete the TPS, RIDE the bike, do 4 or 5 plug chops, & jet it without the added expense of a bunch of unnecessary extra electronic crap on your bike. Ray.
 
tuning isnt hard, you dont need electronic crap, its just extra bull to deal with
if the carbs were good, they worked well enough, my self i would go with mechanical flatslide something easy to use im sure you can figure it out you have done how much already
actually you could go with edelbrocks flat slide carbs, and there only 100 or so
 
For me the electrickery is all a bit interesting and fun... I enjoy that stuff to a certain extent. My ability to read plugs is a little dodgy...

But you're both right, there's nothing wrong with sticking to the tried and true methods for getting tuning right :)

I can guarantee an experienced tuner would get better results with "feel" and plug chops than I ever would with the fanciest electrics...
 
Tps, map, egt, o2, iat, atmos press, all great to have. However, when the delivery system is still carbs and not FI its a learning curve to see what does what and what is important or not. Having a micro squirt system that maps all that and learns as it goes is awesome.

Id go for egt and o2 and tps for just carbs. That will tell you all you need to know.

But in the end Id just ride it anyways to know for sure.


I know you have to be wot for setting the main jet... But does the rpm matter? As in should you check it at 11000 or at 9000 or just somewhere before redline ? Or just when it stops pulling?
 
On CV carbs, rpm's are very important. If you think about it, you can hold it at WOT from 2000 rpm but it will only have the butterflies wide open - the slides haven't moved all the way up yet to allow the needle out of the way, so they are still "blocking" the main jets.

Most people will try to jet from the top down (main jets first, than the needles, etc). But on a rebuilt motor that needs broken in first, it's good to work from the bottom up instead so you aren't doing WOT plug chops on a fresh motor.
 
Yeah that's why I'm just going to jet it so that it feels alright for cruising around and progressively come on to it and check the plugs each time I get it up a bit higher.

I actually don't know where to start.

In theory the extra displacement means I would have to jet down but the extra flow and filters would mean jetting up.

I have 117.5 main's and 40 pilots in them now.
I have everything up to 150 to try. I might just throw those in to see what happens.

Now If I could just get to the bike :P


Blue bike is coming along. Its due for first oil change and check the valves. Also have some bad cam walk on the exhaust cam. Turns out as I was choosing my best cam's I picked the one that needed shimming :P

Then there is the seadoo to finish and vehicle inspection do at the end of the month :P

So little time, so much to do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top