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Rectifier / Regulator Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter phaserburn
  • Start date Start date
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phaserburn

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What are the requirements for a regulator / rectifer to work on a GS1000? I know people have posted a Honda CX500 upgrade, but why not a goldwing or vulcan? Obviously there are electronic constraints, but what are those constraints. Just curious -- I might be on a lookout for a replacement for my bike and would like to understand my options..

Thanks
 
I know a little, I'll just guess the rest

I know a little, I'll just guess the rest

Mr. phaserburn,

Basic requirement for the r/r are three input wires (usually yellow, from the stator), an output wire (usually red, to charge the battery), a ground wire (could be green or black, to the negative battery terminal), and the Honda part has a "sense" wire that needs to be connected to a switched 12v line, usually the rear brake light. It has to rectify and regulate about 80v AC input (from all three legs of the stator/alternator assembly) to about 12-14v DC output.

I'm sorry I don't know the compatible part numbers.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

EDIT: Fixed my numbers after consulting with Mr. Steve.
 
Last edited:
Thanks BassCliff! I have so much to learn and you guys on this forum are a wealth of knowledge. I'm trying to do as much work on the bike as I can. Learning and relaxing -- when I'm not frustrated!:)
 
I'm using a late model CBR1000RR unit on my bike. 5 wires just like the stock GS unit and much more robust.
 
BassCliff said:
It has to rectify and regulate about 240v AC input (from all three legs of the stator/alternator assembly) to about 12-14v DC output.
Click to expand...
Mr. BassCliff,

If your stator is putting out 240v AC, you need a new stator. :shock:

Yes, each leg of the stator is supposed to put out about 80 volts, but the three legs are 120 degrees offset from each other, which smooths out the output, but does not add to the peak voltage.

That would be like saying that your 850's engine has a stroke of 225.6 mm. Doesn't it?
I mean, each piston goes up and down 56.4 mm, and there are four of them, so ... :-\"


Mr. phaserburn,

Here is a link to a search on eBay for Honda regulators. What you are looking for will likely be on a bike that is 500cc or larger, but stay away from the ATV stuff, regardless of size. Look at the picture, make sure it has at least 5 wires as BassCliff mentioned.


.
 
If you are into electronics it is easy and quite inexpensive to rebuild the R/R. There are schematics available. Then you can also buy the Electrex one that is supposed to be an improvement or use one off another bike. Later model bikes that have a field winding in addition to the 3 starr, 3 phase windings will not work
 
I was told there would be no math!

I was told there would be no math!

Steve said:
Mr. BassCliff,

If your stator is putting out 240v AC, you need a new stator. :shock:

Yes, each leg of the stator is supposed to put out about 80 volts, but the three legs are 120 degrees offset from each other, which smooths out the output, but does not add to the peak voltage.

That would be like saying that your 850's engine has a stroke of 225.6 mm. Doesn't it?
I mean, each piston goes up and down 56.4 mm, and there are four of them, so ... :-\"
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. Steve,

That's what I get for trying to do the math without a calculator. It's been too long since my active electronics class in college. Thanks for clearing that up. It's good to know you've got my back. :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Matchless said:
If you are into electronics it is easy and quite inexpensive to rebuild the R/R. There are schematics available. Then you can also buy the Electrex one that is supposed to be an improvement or use one off another bike. Later model bikes that have a field winding in addition to the 3 starr, 3 phase windings will not work
Click to expand...
The components are sealed in epoxy so it's not that easy. Not to step on anyone's toes here, but the popular replacement is the early '80s Honda R/R. Why not use the late model Honda regs that are only a year or two old and can be had for the same money?
 
Billy Ricks said:
The components are sealed in epoxy so it's not that easy. Not to step on anyone's toes here, but the popular replacement is the early '80s Honda R/R. Why not use the late model Honda regs that are only a year or two old and can be had for the same money?
Click to expand...

Agree.:-D Lots of wrecked CBR's out there; R/R's are available for cheap off ebay.

As far as which to get, just about any R/R will work; they all seem to have three input wires and two, or three, output wires (the third wire is sometimes for voltage sense).
 
Nessism said:
As far as which to get, just about any R/R will work; they all seem to have three input wires and two, or three, output wires (the third wire is sometimes for voltage sense).
Click to expand...
Just to add to the confusion (therefore I don't mention it often), I have gotten a Honda regulator (I don't remember what year or model) that had EIGHT wires connected to it. Had the usual three yellow inputs, but had two red outputs, two green grounds and a black sense wire. Evidently they had some incentive that year to use the same gauge wire for everything, so they used two wires in parallel to handle the extra current.


.
 
You are absolutely right. One should rather replace with a newer type as the old 1980 GS did not have regulation on one of the phases, but was supposed to be switched in when headlights were switched on. A mod was usually done in the headlight where the wires were shorted out. This wire should in actual fact be bypassed right at the regulator on the GS, as the original mod pushed AC unnecessarily over this long wire. The newer ones are also more bullet proof, when or if your stator or battery fails.
In our part of the world the abundance of spares at the prices you get them for is not really the same and shipping from the USA is sometimes a lot more than the spare itself, so even Honda ones cost a bit to land here. If I could get a Honda regulator at $20 shipped here for $5 I would really go for it.
 
Matchless said:
You are absolutely right. One should rather replace with a newer type as the old 1980 GS did not have regulation on one of the phases, but was supposed to be switched in when headlights were switched on. A mod was usually done in the headlight where the wires were shorted out. This wire should in actual fact be bypassed right at the regulator on the GS, as the original mod pushed AC unnecessarily over this long wire. The newer ones are also more bullet proof, when or if your stator or battery fails.
In our part of the world the abundance of spares at the prices you get them for is not really the same and shipping from the USA is sometimes a lot more than the spare itself, so even Honda ones cost a bit to land here. If I could get a Honda regulator at $20 shipped here for $5 I would really go for it.
Click to expand...
If you ever need one I'd be happy to be the middleman and get it out to you.
 
you all have been wonderful and I'm learning a lot. I guess it is time for me to head to E-Bay and see what deals are to be made.
Thanks for your help
 
Hypothetically speaking...

Hypothetically speaking...

Steve said:
Just to add to the confusion (therefore I don't mention it often), I have gotten a Honda regulator (I don't remember what year or model) that had EIGHT wires connected to it. Had the usual three yellow inputs, but had two red outputs, two green grounds and a black sense wire. Evidently they had some incentive that year to use the same gauge wire for everything, so they used two wires in parallel to handle the extra current.
Click to expand...

Mr. Steve,

So let's say I have a "friend" who picked up an extra late-model Honda r/r, just to have around as a spare, and it had the extra green and red wires of which you speak. Where would these be connected? Could you connect one green to the battery(-) and the other to the frame? Would you connect both red outputs or just one? My "friend" wants to know. :wink:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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