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  • Thread starter Thread starter Diablo133
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Diablo133

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Does anyone know the number of ohms that the region should have between the whit/blue wire and yellow wire?
 
If you are measuring the inputs on the R/R, you can't simply measure resistance, you need to do a diode check.

You should also know that there are TWELVE measurements that you need to make to check all the diodes.
If any ONE of those measurements is wrong, change the R/R. A series-type R/R is highly recommended, the Polaris unit is the current favorite. Plenty of posts (many of them quite recent) on the topic, a quick search should yield a bunch of information.

It would also help if you gave us a clue what bike you are working on. Earlier bikes have separate R/ and /R, they are not all combined, and readings might be different.

.
 
I am working on a 77 GS750L, It has no spark While investigating that i found that the White/blue and Yelow wires touched on the combined RR and melted the tape the last owner used after just twisting the wires together, I assume the RR is toast and may have smoked the CDI box too. I just cant find out how to test all these items i need to test. People say that the 750 E is the same but all the diagrams show the wrong color wires. amd no one can lead me to tests for the CDI either


If you are measuring the inputs on the R/R, you can't simply measure resistance, you need to do a diode check.

You should also know that there are TWELVE measurements that you need to make to check all the diodes.
If any ONE of those measurements is wrong, change the R/R. A series-type R/R is highly recommended, the Polaris unit is the current favorite. Plenty of posts (many of them quite recent) on the topic, a quick search should yield a bunch of information.

It would also help if you gave us a clue what bike you are working on. Earlier bikes have separate R/ and /R, they are not all combined, and readings might be different.

.
 
I am working on a 77 GS750L, It has no spark While investigating that i found that the White/blue and Yelow wires touched on the combined RR and melted the tape the last owner used after just twisting the wires together, I assume the RR is toast and may have smoked the CDI box too. I just cant find out how to test all these items i need to test. People say that the 750 E is the same but all the diagrams show the wrong color wires. amd no one can lead me to tests for the CDI either

The 1977 GS750 didn't use a R/R nor a CDI. Your bike came with a separate regulator and regulator, and points.
 
The 1977 gs750 came with points ignition.... So yours has been upgraded to some kind of electronic ignition?

it also came stock with seperate regulator and rectifier... But you say it now has a combined r/r ? Any markings on either the ignition module or this r/r?
 
sorry i meant 1980, i was thinking about my yamaha xs500, so my gs is a 1980
The 1977 gs750 came with points ignition.... So yours has been upgraded to some kind of electronic ignition?

it also came stock with seperate regulator and rectifier... But you say it now has a combined r/r ? Any markings on either the ignition module or this r/r?
 
The factory Suzuki service manual has info on how to test the ignitor and R/R. If you don't have a manual search out basscliff's website and download one. Unfortunately, these tests are not difinitive but they are a good place to start.

BTW, the charging system is separate from the ignition. Problems in these circuits typically don't cross over unless (maybe) an over charging system could possibly fry the ignitor.
 
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