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Regulator/Rectifier Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter chrisfoley36
  • Start date Start date
C

chrisfoley36

Guest
Hello All
I am new to here and hope someone can help me with a problem I am having. I just purchased a 1983 GS1100 GK and soon discovered it was not charging. Using a meter and following some instructions it was determine the the Regulator/Rectifier was faulty ( I hope ). I was not able to pick up the same one from a local dealer so opted for a used one. Here is my problem.

My Old One - Genuine Suzuki Part
S1002U has 5 wires
Red, Yellow, Yellow, Yellow, Black

My Used One -
2J2-A0 (SH235)
- Has 6 wires
Yellow, Red, Black, Yellow, Brown, Yellow

I have done a search but cannot find information on how to hook this used one up to my 83 GS1100. Any help would be appreciated. I do not want to hook up a wire wrong and have to buy another Rectifier. :(

Thanks
Chris
 
Hello All
I am new to here and hope someone can help me with a problem I am having. I just purchased a 1983 GS1100 GK and soon discovered it was not charging. Using a meter and following some instructions it was determine the the Regulator/Rectifier was faulty ( I hope ). I was not able to pick up the same one from a local dealer so opted for a used one. Here is my problem.

My Old One - Genuine Suzuki Part
S1002U has 5 wires
Red, Yellow, Yellow, Yellow, Black

My Used One -
2J2-A0 (SH235) - Has 6 wires
Yellow, Red, Black, Yellow, Brown, Yellow

I have done a search but cannot find information on how to hook this used one up to my 83 GS1100. Any help would be appreciated. I do not want to hook up a wire wrong and have to buy another Rectifier. :(

Thanks

Chris

You should
  1. search to see if the R/R is on Matchless's list
  2. Then look for "Honda Regulator (i.e. 6 wire R/R) connections
  3. Look at "GS Charging System Heath".
 
The SH235 is apparently rated at 15A which is a bit low. I would not use it on a GS1100.
You want one that is rated at >24 Amp or preferably 30A or higher.
This one will work, but will fail rather soon and may strand you somewhere inconveniently. You will also feel it getting quite hot, especially at high RPM,s.
 
Hi,

If you're in the States, member duaneage has the best "bang for your buck" on a new r/r unit. Send him an email or PM.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

If you're in the States, member duaneage has the best "bang for your buck" on a new r/r unit. Send him an email or PM.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
I'd go with the one he has already; the sh-232 that I have looks beefy and I would guess the sh-235 would be similar. Hopefully it's a genuine Shindengen and not a knock off.
 
A Real Newbie

A Real Newbie

Hello all and thanks for the speedy reply. I guess me being a real newbie I might be able to get away with some real newbie questions :lol:.

What I have found out and hope is correct is this

3 Yellow wires to the Stator
1 Red Wire to the Positive
1 Black wire to the Ground
1 Brown wire to switched

Also I am looking for something a little beefier and will post in the want section. Anyone have any suggestions on what to get that would work well.

Thanks
Chris
 
I used one off of a 2004 Honda CBR1000. Havent had any problems yet and its a five wire. Found one for 50 bucks on ebay.
 
My Results

My Results

Morning All
Well I now have the Regulator/Rectifier change and it is showing that it is charging. Let the bike run for quite some time and nothing seems to be getting hot. A good run to clean the bugs out of her. Bike Night tonight at Tim Horton's yah know :)

What is puzzling though is the Brown wire seem to have no effect whether it was hooked up or not. It show the battery charging either way. Does the Brown wire need to be hooked up and from what I have read it should have gone to a switch like the headlight or something so that it only had power while the key was on.

Thanks
 
It's probably a feed for a field coil. See if there is voltage on it when the bike is running. If so, insulate it and tie it back so it does not get into trouble.
 
OK, I did some quick research. Your regulator was used on a the Yamaha RD400 as per my list. As such your SH235 should have 3 white wires if it came off a Yamaha, but could have 3 yellow wires if it was also used on any other makes at the time, this is just about impossible to confirm.

The brown wire on the RD400 is definitely a sense wire and goes to the brake light switch, which is a switched power feed.

Please note my warning that the SH235 is too low current rated for your bike and may fail unexpectedly.
 
OK, I did some quick research. Your regulator was used on a the Yamaha RD400 as per my list. As such your SH235 should have 3 white wires if it came off a Yamaha, but could have 3 yellow wires if it was also used on any other makes at the time, this is just about impossible to confirm.

The brown wire on the RD400 is definitely a sense wire and goes to the brake light switch, which is a switched power feed.

Please note my warning that the SH235 is too low current rated for your bike and may fail unexpectedly.


so if his sense wire has no effect the R/R is busted, huh?
 
so if his sense wire has no effect the R/R is busted, huh?

Most likely, but with a low output stator (i.e.20-40V AC) funny things can happen and he did not give any voltages. There will also be no regulation if the maximum DC voltage never reaches the regulator set point.

Hopefully he follows the stator papers from here and does a proper check.
 
Morning All
Well I now have the Regulator/Rectifier change and it is showing that it is charging. Let the bike run for quite some time and nothing seems to be getting hot. A good run to clean the bugs out of her. Bike Night tonight at Tim Horton's yah know :)

What is puzzling though is the Brown wire seem to have no effect whether it was hooked up or not. It show the battery charging either way. Does the Brown wire need to be hooked up and from what I have read it should have gone to a switch like the headlight or something so that it only had power while the key was on.

Thanks

Maybe the R/R has some internal circuitry as a fall back in case sense wire gets disconnected. I would connect it to rear brake light switch. How big is this unit ?- 2.5 " by 3" is the size of a SH-233 unit I scooped off ebay. For yamaha maxim with field controlled alternator- has seven wires, 3 white (stator), red, black, brown and a green (probably for field). If your R/R is this size, I'm having trouble understanding why Mr. Matchless thinks it's undersized.
 
Maybe the R/R has some internal circuitry as a fall back in case sense wire gets disconnected. I would connect it to rear brake light switch. How big is this unit ?- 2.5 " by 3" is the size of a SH-233 unit I scooped off ebay. For yamaha maxim with field controlled alternator- has seven wires, 3 white (stator), red, black, brown and a green (probably for field). If your R/R is this size, I'm having trouble understanding why Mr. Matchless thinks it's undersized.


Well it is defiantly bigger than the stock Regulator. This is a SH235. Gave the battery a full charge today and went for a short run in town to Bike Night and so far so good for the charging and starting. Here is a Picture from this evening about two hours ago.

Chris
ps. would there be any problem hooking the Brown wire up as suggested?
 
Well it is defiantly bigger than the stock Regulator. This is a SH235. Gave the battery a full charge today and went for a short run in town to Bike Night and so far so good for the charging and starting. Here is a Picture from this evening about two hours ago.

Chris
ps. would there be any problem hooking the Brown wire up as suggested?

My post #3 did not refer to physical dimensions! My post #11 stated what has to be done with the brown wire!
So much for trying to help!
 
From the R/R Replacement link on Bikecliff's site:

"On 6 wire units, that wire is a 'sense' wire which gets
connected to a switched 12v source to help regulate the proper output. On 7
wire units (3-yellow, 2-red, 2-green/ground), there is no sense wire but both
grounds and hot wires are connected at different places."

I knew I remembered reading that when I had my own R/R issues.
 
My post #3 did not refer to physical dimensions! My post #11 stated what has to be done with the brown wire!
So much for trying to help!
Well yes, but post #11 also said that unit SH-235 was too small ( current wise) and I - tom203 ,aka troublemaker- ( not chrisfoley36 ) wondered how you determined this, since it appears to be standard Shindengen size.
 
Brown Wire

Brown Wire

Hello Again
I was not ignoring your advice. The Brown wire is hooked up. I was just asking if it made any differences and I guess why? I am far from being keen on repairs hence what got to this site. I just found some of the info contradicting. To what I had heard or read. It is all good and the end result is the bike is running and charging and I appreciate everyone's input.
 
Hello Again
I was not ignoring your advice. The Brown wire is hooked up. I was just asking if it made any differences and I guess why? I am far from being keen on repairs hence what got to this site. I just found some of the info contradicting. To what I had heard or read. It is all good and the end result is the bike is running and charging and I appreciate everyone's input.

If in fact it is a sense wire (I assume so if that is Matchless's conclusion), then the R/R monitors the 6th wire voltage at the end of the sense wire to raise and lower internal charging so the sense point voltage is maintained at a reference level.

So if you leave it open, the voltage will be zero always and the R/R will always put out maximum power and voltage. The only way the R/R can regulate is by having that 6th wire connected to the voltage you are trying to regulate. The battery would be best but the wire can load teh battery and drain it if left on too long and the engine not run to recharge the battery.


I'm sure this has been explained about N times, you can dfing thing much more effectively using the "advanced" search. If you key in on a specirfic individual you can narrow down much easier as well.

For example look look for "Matchless" and 6 wire r/r
 
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