Regulator to battery fuse rating

[GSJim]

The bike I had fuses blow on used an Electrex stator (the higher rated one) & a Mosfet FH012 RR if that helps...

I haven't tried anything lower than a 30 on my Skunk (STock Stator with an FH012).

I have no idea what stator is installed on my bike. The original fried and the shop didn't put any part or model number on the work order. I doubt it was an original Suzuki part because it wasn't expensive enough. The regulator is an Electrosport ESR090.

Here is another question I was thinking about last night. If I wire the regulator output directly to the battery and then blow the main fuse, it leaves the regulator output unloaded. Is this a recipe for roasting a stator? The bike will run for a while on the battery. The stator will still be generating and the regulator will be shorting the current to ground, generating lots of heat.

Jim

 

[Steve]

The R/R is still directly across the battery, but of course it is through the stock harness.

Jim, I agree with you, but I have found that stock connection to be faulty on occasion. Rather than tear the harnes open to re-crimp or solder the connection, I have found it easier to move the R/R output to the battery.

Both situations work, it's only semantics which one is more "right".

.

 

[GSJim]

Here is another question I was thinking about last night. If I wire the regulator output directly to the battery and then blow the main fuse, it leaves the regulator output unloaded. Is this a recipe for roasting a stator? The bike will run for a while on the battery. The stator will still be generating and the regulator will be shorting the current to ground, generating lots of heat.

Jim

After some additional thought, leaving the regulator with no load would overheat the regulator, not the stator, if you have a shunt regulator. The stator will always have the same output and the shunt regulator will short it to ground, generating heat in the regulator. The stator will overheat regardless of regulator load.

Jim

 

[MisterCinders]

If folks are blowing fuses on the RR to battery link, wouldn't you want to change the wire gauge when you up the fuse? Just bumping up amps in a fuse is bad mojo since that wire is still getting hotter than the old fuse.

So if your 15A fuse can't handle the juice, changing to a 20A fuse means you are embracing that hot wire. Wouldn't the better move be to drop a gauge in wire (increasing the size) and then changing to a higher amp fuse?