Rehabbing forks

[cowboyup3371]

Despite four or five different seal changes (both OEM and aftermarket) and two sets of forks, I am still suffering leaks from them. I am thinking I will take the original set of forks I had on the bike and try to follow a video I saw to remove any high spots using wet 0000 steel wool. However, I am unsure if videos I have found to remove pits can really be trusted. Does anyone know if the claims of using JB Weld on fork tubes really work? Are there better ways of fixing the pits?

I also have a couple of emails out to some chrome businesses near me to see how much they might charge.

 

[tkent02]

You still messing with those leaky old things? Just get some nice unpitted and unbent fork tubes.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I've been looking on EBay but I'm not sure how much I want to trust what I saw.

 

[tkent02]

I've been looking on EBay but I'm not sure how much I want to trust what I saw.

No Scott, the correct question would be, "How many pairs of 550 forks do you have in your attic, Tom?"

 

[cowboyup3371]

The even better question is do I want to get rid of my dual brake system which is the one reason I like the 750 forks?

Do you have any non-L 550 forks then in good shape?

 

[tkent02]

Put your 750 sliders on my 550 tubes. Also 650G forks work, 35mm, dual brakes, better damping action. I think I can help you out here. Go to PMs?

 

[Michael]

Put your 750 sliders on my 550 tubes. Also 650G forks work, 35mm, dual brakes, better damping action. I think I can help you out here. Go to PMs?

Hey Tom, I just happened to be reading your conversation. Do you happen to have some extra 650G Tubes laying around your attic? Mine are pitted and leaking.

 

[tkent02]

Find out if 750 tubes will work, they are also 35mm, but probably a bit longer. I have a few sets of 750 forks.

 

[Michael]

Find out if 750 tubes will work, they are also 35mm, but probably a bit longer. I have a few sets of 750 forks.

How would I be able to tell if the 750 tubes will work. My bike is an 82 GS650G.

 

[JamesWhut?]

the critical dimension in forks (beside tube diameter obviously) is axle size and spacing. If that is different, you are best off doing a complete transplant, triple clamps and all, as it is easier and cheaper to replace bearings or even the stem that fool with axles and caliper mounts.

 

[tkent02]

What about using the 750 tubes in the 650 sliders? He just wanted fork tubes, not the whole thing. It's likely the damper rod threads are the same..... Anyone know?

 

[JamesWhut?]

You never know. Some years/models they change suppliers or specs, for.... who knows why. The Japanese are funny like that.
And so much as a millimeter off on the damping rod OD or thread size and; nope. Not compatable.

Your only way to know is to buy both sets and see if you can get them to fit together. I doubt anyone (here) has done your exact combination.

 

[Andrew Vanis]

..... remove any high spots using wet 0000 steel wool. However, I am unsure if videos I have found to remove pits can really be trusted. Does anyone know if the claims of using JB Weld on fork tubes really work? Are there better ways of fixing the pits?....

I have been lurking this thread to see if anyone would answer this question - so consider this a bump.

I have on nick on one tube. I will flatten it and would also like to fill it in if actually works - I don't have spare tubes and no interest in getting them as thisis a relatively small nick.

Anyone do some or all of this?

 

[RichDesmond]

I often use some extra fine steel wool to smooth out nicks and dings in forks. How well it works depends on the size and shape of the ding, but it seems to have about a 50% success rate. You can't get too aggressive with it or you'll go through the chrome. The goal isn't to make the dings disappear, but to knock off the sharp edges and smooth things out somewhat. It's a good idea to make inspecting the fork tubes a regular thing, I look at mine at least every oil change and give them a light buffing if I see anything. Fork seals last a lot longer if you do that.
Haven't tried any kind of filler, but the tubes leak in spite of other methods I can't see why it wouldn't worth a try. Nothing to lose.

 

[JamesWhut?]

However, I am unsure if videos I have found to remove pits can really be trusted. Does anyone know if the claims of using JB Weld on fork tubes really work? Are there better ways of fixing the pits?

I've had pretty good success with filling scratches and dings with JB Weld. The trick is getting the slider absolutely clean and degreased down in the pit so that the epoxy can get a good "tooth" and stay in place. Then you just lightly sand and then polish it down so that you can't tell the difference besides the discoloration. Fork seals are pretty good about going over and covering smooth distortions. What they don't like are sharp pits and protrusions that damage them and break the seal lip's contact with the metal.

 

[salty_monk]

I've also read about people using a clear varnish (nail polish) to cover the pits once the sharp edges has been knocked off & de-rusted/degreased

 

[limeex2]

Ive seen nick and pits in forks and not leak. Red Scotchbrite works well. Many times its the slider bushing that is wore out allowing excessive free play, allowing the tube to move enough to stretch the seal lips and create a leak. Check and see if new slider bushings are available the Suzuki or Race Tech.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Limeex but the bushings on my current forks are not replaceable; however, Tom is sending me some 650E forks that will probably work out after I clean them up too. And those bushings are replaceable.