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Relay mod

  • Thread starter Thread starter JEEPRUSTY
  • Start date Start date
J

JEEPRUSTY

Guest
it is fine to chat about wires and numers of pole
but where in thelll do teh actual connection get made?

I strongly suspect that th O\W wires that feed the coils and that is fed eiterh from or to the ignitor is swaged with a corrupted stell shank.

Regardless.
I have one O\W wire to each + on each coil. I have an differenct ground pre each negative connection.

Where does the actual physical wiring go in a real world example?

Is the O\W just a high amp + lead from the battery switched via a relay?

No but really all the fab artiles show no real life pictorials.
I am so afraid of a degraded junction in the harness that even a relay mod will be just wishful thinking.
 
O/W wire comes from the kill switch down to the ignitor. The two leads going to the coils is a single piece that was soldiered to the main O/W wire in the harness. Voltage drop is usually due to the kill switch. From what I have been told there is no real good way to clean it to try and get the voltage back up. That is way the relay mod is done. Do not need 12v to operate the relay.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
I have one O\W wire to each + on each coil. I have an differenct ground pre each negative connection.
Click to expand...

Those grounds both lead back directly to pins on the ignitor wiring harness. The ignitor builds the coil fields by applying the ground, then fires the coils by pulling the ground at just the right time. In your last post I suggested checking continuity between those ground wires and the matching wires in the ignitor harness, since two different ignitors for you both failed to fire the same coil, yet the coil was reading fine.

JEEPRUSTY said:
Where does the actual physical wiring go in a real world example?

Is the O\W just a high amp + lead from the battery switched via a relay?
Click to expand...

As noted, the O/W runs through both the ignition and kill switches, and those are the locations where it frequently loses capacity. Do you have a Clymer manual? Their wiring diagram is easier to read/follow than Suzuki's. If not PM me and I'll see if I can get you that.

My bike has an accessory fuse, which was unused/untapped. That's where I connected the new +12V line switched through the relay. Already there and no need to buy an inline fuse holder. The other switched half leads to crimped connectors where I cut both O/W coil wires, and the +12V for the Dyna. The control half of the relay is just a ground, and I ran a jumper to the O/W on the (now empty due to the Dyna) ignitor harness. That's obviously not going to be an option for you if you're still using the stock ignitor. The rear brake light switch is a popular option to grab the switched +12V.
 
I did my coil relay mod last week; there are a couple of threads about it.

There is a pair of wires connected to each coil, and each pair is connected into the harness with white connectors. One pair is o/w and white, the other o/w and black/white. It is important to reconnect the white and b/w wires into their proper harness connections because these go to the igniter which triggers the spark at the right time.

Take one o/w wire from the harness side of the connector and use that on pin 86 of your relay to supply 12v to the relay switch side. Add a length of 18ga wire it it doesn't reach where you want to put the relay.

Take a new wire from pin 85 to the frame ground behind the tank. This is the ground for the relay switch side.

Take a new wire (I used 12ga, but suppose 14 is ok) from either the battery positive or the main fuse red side (I did the latter) to pin 30 on the relay, installing a 10amp fuse in between. This will supply 12V and plenty of amps to the coils.

Connect the o/w wires leading from the coils to pin 87 of the relay. I had to add a length of 18ga wire to each in order to have enough slack to reach the relay. The OEM o/w wires are thinner than 18ga, so I can't believe that the coils use much amperage. You can siamese the two wires from the coils onto the single female spade connector for pin 87.

If this isn't clear, PM me and I'll give you my phone number so we can talk through it. The mod definitely improved my GS.
 
It's not that complicated... I did mine last weekend as well. Took about an two hours, but that's only because I did some other work while I was in there. There are several tutorials on the process, complete with pictures, part numbers, advice, etc.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/coil_relay_mod.html


GS850_Coil_Relay_001x.jpg


GS850_Coil_Relay_002x.jpg


GS850_Coil_Relay_003x.jpg
 
Hey Jim,

posplayr said:
Wholey crapp man this. Sounds comLicated; hope nothing burns
Click to expand...

You're a pretty funny guy. I know you design missle guideance systems for a living. Try not to scare us mere mortals. :);)

Yes, there is gobs of relay mod info on my site. Help yourself. I put the relay itself by the battery box and made the coil connections near the connectors under the tank. That makes the relay easier to replace should it ever fail.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
I put the relay itself by the battery box and made the coil connections near the connectors under the tank. That makes the relay easier to replace should it ever fail.
Click to expand...

I thought of doing that myself, if for no other reason than to help keep it away from the heat of the engine as well. Might be reason for another revision the next time I need to take the tank off.... :-k
 
I am thinking of going with a nice OEM fuel pump relay.
Nice sealed unit that is built to always be on as opposed to a horn relay that is likely built for short bursts not constant operation.
They want 20 bucks for a horn relay here abouts.

Tine for a trip to the junkyard.
 
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