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Removal and installation of stator, and wiring

timebombprod

Forum Sage
Have the stator case off and saw that the stator wire runs through the transmission case, do you have to take the case off to remove and install the stator?

Also gonna post a pic of my wiring I'm sure it's been ran through but I wanna know if its gonna need to be gone through or left alone, have a blue wire not connected to anything think it's part of my horn, only 1 of the 2 rear brake light wires are connected I mean it works but I dont know if that damages the wiring.

Just kinda a mess overall in my opinion I'm a bit OCD and if there was no harm in doing a rerouting and tuck to clean it up I wouldn't mind. If I were to I'd label all wires and there connections so I dont sit with a disassembled wiring harness or a mismatched one. If a few unplugged wires dont do any harm and I havent found anything electrical that doesn't work (which I havent) I'll just leave it alone
 
A 3/8"drive socket wrench (the small one) should allow you to get to the inner bolt that holds the starter cover down. It will only allow you very small movements of the handle, so it takes a while, but should be doable. Actually removing the starter motor, on the other hand, may prove to be impossible without dislocating the carbs out of their boots first. It's possible, depending on the size and shape of the connectors on the ends of the 3 stator wires, that you may have to cut them in order to thread them through the starter motor housing, especially if you try to do it without first removing the starter motor. It's tight in there.
 
I can't see the pics either, and I am on FB. If you haven't figured out how to post pics on the forum yet, I have instructions for using Imgur linked in my signature.
 
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That pole should only be live when the starter button is pushed. :-k

If the solenoid is stuck, it might be live, otherwise, it won't be.
dunno.gif


But isolating the battery (remove a wire) is still good practice. :encouragement:

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That pole should only be live when the starter button is pushed. :-k

If the solenoid is stuck, it might be live, otherwise, it won't be.
dunno.gif


But isolating the battery (remove a wire) is still good practice. :encouragement:

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Call me paranoid but my cover has a 2mm hole burnt clean through.
I can only imagine the sequence of events that lead to that :)
 
Call me paranoid ...
Hi, Paranoid.
hellobye.gif


I noticed that my wife's bike was occasionally hard to start, occasionally smoking in the process.
eek.gif

Removed the cover, found a burnt spot on the bottom that had not (yet) made it all the way through.
I hammered a little more clearance and re-clocked the starter to avoid future incidents, but the principle remains, ... it's only hot when the starter button is pushed.

.
 
Hi, Paranoid.
hellobye.gif


I noticed that my wife's bike was occasionally hard to start, occasionally smoking in the process.
eek.gif

Removed the cover, found a burnt spot on the bottom that had not (yet) made it all the way through.
I hammered a little more clearance and re-clocked the starter to avoid future incidents, but the principle remains, ... it's only hot when the starter button is pushed.

.

You've been watching too much Gene Wilder and Marty Feldman :)
I think the starter was reassembled with the pole at 12 o'clock missing the blister completely.
 
heres the picture, its missing a bolt on the other side, jeez closeup of bike does bring out some of its ugly, but everything's in fine mechanical condition

carbs are disconnected and battery is aswell, the batteries sitting in the cardboard box lol only tested it once on bike just to see; probably gonna remove the starter cover off after this post
109563061_3080397055375854_4005654656264468192_n.jpg
 
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starter cover is removed; straight shot with the wire seems to be no problem to take out and reinstall another, however the 3 wires that connect to the stator are one yellow, and two are white with another colour, the new stator i have is 3 yellow wires no difference at all, do the connections matter?

bough new stator before testing old one anyone want a possibly working one :p
 
starter cover is removed; straight shot with the wire seems to be no problem to take out and reinstall another, however the 3 wires that connect to the stator are one yellow, and two are white with another colour, the new stator i have is 3 yellow wires no difference at all, do the connections matter?

bough new stator before testing old one anyone want a possibly working one :p

Connections don't matter.
What regulator/rectifier have you got and is the bike still wired with a loop up to the headlight on one of the phases?
The loop would have been a green/white leaving the stator and returning as a red/white to the rectifier.
https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=...0C6B!1373&parId=2370B62DDF9F0C6B!1030&o=OneUp
Consensus here is to eliminate the loop by wiring the stator direct to the rectifier and get a series R/R to limit the excess charging current being dumped back into the stator windings.
 
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Agree. Whatever color they are, connect all three wires directly to the three inputs on the R/R.

You mention that your current wires are: "one yellow, and two are white with another colour", but your picture shows three red wires. Please make sure you are playing with correct wires. The stock wiring was, indeed one yellow, and two are white with another color, those other colors are green and blue. None of those are shown.

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Agree. Whatever color they are, connect all three wires directly to the three inputs on the R/R.

You mention that your current wires are: "one yellow, and two are white with another colour", but your picture shows three red wires. Please make sure you are playing with correct wires. The stock wiring was, indeed one yellow, and two are white with another color, those other colors are green and blue. None of those are shown.

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Not the stator wires but the wires the stator is connected to have those 3 wires.

Also my regulator is posted in another thread and I dont know about the loop I'll have to check
 
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