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Removing Air Screws

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pete's GS
  • Start date Start date
P

Pete's GS

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I finally cleaned the carbs on my 1980 GS550E as described on this website and, Praise God fur Vict'ry (The Grapes of Wrath) it worked ! Now the bike starts with the choke and doesn't need starter fluid. I took it to the dealer to have the carbs synched, and he offered to replace some o-rings as well as tweak the air screws to get it "runnin' t_ts." Well, guess what ? No. 1 air screw turns but the other three are locked down ! Motorcyclecarbs.com says the GS series pilot jets are installed with Loc-Tite or Super Glue. The dealer tried carb cleaner and I tried some as well as Gunk Liquid Wrench Super-Penetrant but nothing worked. So what's going to free these air screws if I want to get it running the best possible or if I want to add a jet-kit ?
 
Try PB blaster, it's a penatrating catalyst, Or try a high heat air gun/hair dryer to heat the screws
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Try PB blaster, it's a penatrating catalyst, Or try a high heat air gun/hair dryer to heat the screws
Click to expand...

This may not apply to the air screws (clearance issues) but I found that a VERY effective way of "breaking" stuck screws without breaking stuck screws is to use a clutched drill/driver with the clutch set to it's lowest setting. Gradually increase the "grip" of the clutch until hopefully the screw breaks free. The effect you get is like using an impact gun. I used this method very successfully on several screws on my bike that would not "break" with a conventional screwdriver.

The most important part of trying this is to make sure you use a brand new bit that perfectly fits the screw. Otherwise you'll strip it out. Obviously, you also need to apply a very firm pressure as you work the screw, also to avoid stripping it out. Needless to say, applying a good penetrant (as mentioned already) is an excellent start before even trying this.

Good Luck!
Steve 8)
 
If you can get them loose, that's great. But you may end up stripping them. If your bike is stock, there is no reason to re-adjust them. You cannot adjust them as well as the factory does it. Yes, it would be nice to replace any o-rings and have screws you can adjust if you go to high elevations, but sometimes they are really tight. I have never tried the heat gun method, but it sounds good. I have found that the sealant the factory uses is the thickest near the top of the screw threads. I've had better luck trying to turn the screws IN first until seated, then cleaning the sealant out of the carb body, then turning the screws out. They are more likely to jam up if you try to take them out first.
But if your bike is running good and it's stock, I see no reason to adjust them.
 
Thanks, guys, you were a great help but nothing worked. Heat should loosen Loc-Tite but it didn't, and nail polish remover should weaken Crazy-Glue but that didn't do it either. Glad to learn about PB Blaster though. I'll leave them as is for now and then decide if I want to add individual K&Ns and a jet kit later.
 
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