Removing hub and bearings

[Guest]

I got the bolts out, and they look sooo clean, and werent stuck. But the thing is still stuck.

To bend the flaps I used a flat iron and a mallet, my wife was worried it as my "expensive japanese screwdriver" but I assured her it was a regular one and it wouln't be damaged.

I tried gently tapping the stud holes or whatever with the mallet, but it didn't seem to help. Is there any tricks to get it lose?

And how do you remove the wheel bearing?

I am going to polish the rim so it gets nice and shiny, dont worry.

 

[Redman]

Removing the hub: A couple pry bars. Need to have a couple pieces of protective material, say, thin board, on the wheel to prevent marring the surface. Pry a little bit to lift it out of the wheel, each bar on opposite sides (say, 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), then move to other location and try a little more. Maybe can get some thin oil onto those post that go into the wheel. It does take a lot of prying a little at a time.

 

[Admiral Beez]

Be very careful when you reattach the joint hub. I overtorqued two and the snapped off. Had to drill them out and helicoil.

 

[Guest]

Hub is off and it looks non worn as far as I can tell.

Now I just need the bearings out.

 

[Guest]

I found a way. Pull out the ring braces, move balls to one side, use a

to move the inner thing out. Buy a tiny one like mine if you want it to be finnicky.

I tried beating the entire bearing on the other side out but felt it wasnt working. So I did the procedure there. Obly to notice half the inner thing was out... Should have whacked it more.

The instructuons said to put five balls back in to knock the ring out. Putting the balls back in is harder than it sounds...

 

[Guest]

Apparently Im an idiot. If you stand it up the bearings wont be as hard to place. First side is DONE.

 

[robertbarr]

OK, so you don't mind the 'brute force' approach. Here's another way:

Better yet, borrow one! It'll smack that bearing out of there nice & tidy in about 20 seconds. There are actually cheaper versions, if you shop around.

 

[bwringer]

Yep, looks like your bike has one of the early model black driven splines, which are known to be durable. Yours looks like it's in fine shape and it has had proper lubrication.

The "soft" gold driven spline units are mostly found in 1982-1984 bikes. With Suzuki there are often some parts that overlap at the beginning and end of different model years, so you have to look at what you have to be sure. No one's sure why Suzuki made this change.

The silver driven spline units, which came on the scene around 1985, are also durable, and still in production for Suzuki's current C50 (805cc) cruisers. But from photos, it's always hard to tell whether a particular unit is gold or silver, and you can't see the wear unless you remove it.

 

[Guest]

Yep, looks like your bike has one of the early model black driven splines, which are known to be durable. Yours looks like it's in fine shape and it has had proper lubrication.

The "soft" gold driven spline units are mostly found in 1982-1984 bikes. With Suzuki there are often some parts that overlap at the beginning and end of different model years, so you have to look at what you have to be sure. No one's sure why Suzuki made this change.

The silver driven spline units, which came on the scene around 1985, are also durable, and still in production for Suzuki's current C50 (805cc) cruisers. But from photos, it's always hard to tell whether a particular unit is gold or silver, and you can't see the wear unless you remove it.

This is the rim I bought of ebay. The seller was french and answered my questions in french. I did not understand any of it.

In the picture I have removed a lot of the lubrication, I just took the hub out to inspect.

The wheel bearing ball bearings seemed to be round and non worn, but the fat was more like waxy than fatty, so I suspect that is what made it not feel smooth as the rim that was on the bike.

Before it is going on the bike I will put some 70% molly on it. I just need to get it all cleaned up.

I got some high quality bearings from the place all the local people recommend, it has markings on it unlike the ones I removed. And is sealed in both ends which apparently is not a problem. I assume the bearings will outlast my bike.

But its good to know its the good splines, so I can get many miles from it. I was so happy when I saw a rim with the hub on it. I am planning on getting the other rim fixed (PO put studs in, CO broke studs off) so I can more quickly change tyres (then I can get new tyres ordered, mounted and balanced early, and just swap the wheel when due). I think Ill get a new one for the front too.

Why does my spell check put red lines under tyre?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Probably because this is an American English website and we spell it TIRE. TYRE is the common British English spelling. But that?s just a guess.

 

[roeme]

(...)
Why does my spell check put red lines under tyre?

Probably because this is an American English website and we spell it TIRE. TYRE is the common British English spelling. But that’s just a guess.

The spell check is implemented in the browser, not the website. Just add the appropriate dictionary.

 

[Guest]

I have always used a pilot bearing puller. They are used to remove pilot bearings out of the back of automotive crankshafts. There are several different types. They normally cost between $10 to $125.