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Removing intake boots.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nuitdevotremort
  • Start date Start date
N

Nuitdevotremort

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Well, I'm wondering if anyone has had issues removing there intake boots. The screws are either badly damaged or in good shape but rusted in very badly. I have the conversion bolts for the Allen heads and new o rings for them but the boots themselves are in good condition. I don't want to ruin any boots trying to heat these bolts and an impact driver doesn't seem to be enough to knock them loose. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
For clarification purposes, I am referring to the intake boots between the carbs and the engine.
 
First of all, PB Blaster is your friend. I shot mine before I went to work and again when I got home for a few days. Then, I used a pair of needle nose vice grip pliers to grab one of the screw heads and work it back and forth until it loosened. After you get one side off just rotate the boot counter-clockwise and the other should loosen itself up enough to take it out as well. :)
 
Or you can use a dremel, cut a long slot, and use a flat blade screwdriver/chisel and a hammer to turn it counterclockwise.
 
I've soaked these screws in enough pb blaster to drown a whale! I've been avoiding taking a dremel to them for fear of busting a head off... *shiver*

Anyone ever use a freezing method before?
 
Anyone ever use a freezing method before?
Click to expand...
How would that work exactly?

I'm going to be in to that project myself this winter. I tried it once a few years back and gave up as they just wouldn't budge but now I've got some leakage and they have to go.

I'll be interested in hearing how it works for you.

Good luck,
Spyug
 
Let us know how you make out, I am in the same boat. There is not enough room on my bike to get an impact driver in there.
 
Nuitdevotremort said:
I've soaked these screws in enough pb blaster to drown a whale! I've been avoiding taking a dremel to them for fear of busting a head off... *shiver*

Anyone ever use a freezing method before?
Click to expand...

Don't fear busting a head off. Once you get the boot off the shaft of the screw will have no tension on it and will screw right off with a pair of pliers. In fact this is how I got 75% of the screws off my engine cases.
 
I removed mine by using a centre punch - Punch near the outer edge of screw head,then tap anti-clockwise . You may chew up the head slightly ,but in my experience, it rarely fails . Obviously not a method if you are hoping to reuse bolt !

sc
 
Small pair of vise grips!! Once you get one of the bolts out You can tap the boot to turn it and loosen the other screw
 
Yes, vice grips on the outside screw, then spin entire boot to get the inner screw to turn. All common knowledge available in the archives, just waiting for people to search it out.
 
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spyug said:
How would that work exactly?
Click to expand...
The freezing makes the metal contract and breaks the rust bonds seizing the bolt. I was talking to my old man and apparently he used to use propane (the gas not ignited) to freeze a seized contact in the oil fields.

I purchased a can of CRC Freeze-Off Penetrating Lubricant and used an impact driver. I've removed multiple bolts so far. Had to stop though, seems to be working great though.
Patman said:
There is not enough room on my bike to get an impact driver in there.
Click to expand...
I've actually removed the engine from the frame. I'm doing a build. Perhaps you know someone with some electric or air impact drivers?
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Once you get one of the bolts out You can tap the boot to turn it and loosen the other screw
Click to expand...
I've been using this one screw method and turn the boot and it's been working well so far!
boontonmike said:
Don't fear busting a head off. Once you get the boot off the shaft of the screw will have no tension on it and will screw right off with a pair of pliers.
Click to expand...
This is good to know... haha.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully I'll get the rest of these off no problem.
 
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I've mentioned this a number of times before, but no-one seems to want to take my advice on it. Hit the side of the head of the screw with a drift (hardened steel is best), this moves the head sideways slightly and releases the tension and then the screw can be undone without any further trouble.

Think about it. The reason the screws can be undone easily once the heads are removed is because it is not the threads that are binding or rusted, corroded, whatever. It is actually the underside of the head which has locked onto the intake boot surface and once this is moved, even a small amount (a few thou), the seal is broken and the screw can be undone.

This method has never failed me. It has never taken me more than 10 minutes to remove all four intake boot screws. Not to mention all the other screws and bolts I have removed using this method. Penetrating oil is redundant in my garage.:)
 
I've never been given this advice before Don, but I will certainly take it! It's true, I've never really thought about the exact area the bolt is bonded to the block/nut. Usually the internal threading is relatively rust free. I'll keep this in mind for future seized bolts though because the intake boots are off!

IMAG0133.jpg
 
Vise-Grips are your best friend, it is the only way to get them out clean, trust me.
 
As a summary, this was my method;

Soaked overnight with PB Blaster. Spray one bolt on each intake directly for 20 seconds with CRC Freeze-Off Penetrating Lubricant and left to sit for 5 minutes. Then used an impact driver on each nut previously sprayed. After each intake had one nut removed, I rotated the intake back and forth as much as they could travel and then used needle nosed vice grips to turn off the remaining bolt (or tried impact driver again if that didn't work).

Perhaps Don's method would have been much more simple. We'll see next time, eh?
 
Here's a question... Sorta off topic of this thread but still in the right area. Haha, well I realized that even with the airbox my carbs had quite a bit of sag going on... switching to pods would mean even less support and only being held up by the intake boots and the pods weighing down the other side. Is there some way to prevent sag? Anybody able to fill my head with a tidbit of knowledge on this?
 
Searched the forum and found this thread. Gonna try a few of these tomorrow. Now just need to search how to install my new Progressive shocks.
 
I'd try vise-grips first or dremel opposite sides of the bolt more Flat, so I can grab it better with a wrench.
Then I'd firmly tap the bolt a few times with a small hammer, then try again....

If no-go then, Liquid Wrench and propane torch.
Which usually starts a small burst fire,lol.

If that doesn't work, I MIG weld it.

If still no-dice, then drill it.
 
Nuitdevotremort said:
Here's a question... Sorta off topic of this thread but still in the right area. Haha, well I realized that even with the airbox my carbs had quite a bit of sag going on... switching to pods would mean even less support and only being held up by the intake boots and the pods weighing down the other side. Is there some way to prevent sag? Anybody able to fill my head with a tidbit of knowledge on this?
Click to expand...
I have seen folks fabricate a brace attached to the caps of #2 & #3 up to frame.
 
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