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Removing Motor from frame

  • Thread starter Thread starter doctorgonzo
  • Start date Start date
D

doctorgonzo

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I'll probably wind up using this as my rebuild thread rather than my old one from when I first started thinking about it. I'll post all the pictures I have of it's current pieces/parts state later as well. Now to my question...

The bike currently sits with both wheels still on it. The block and head are pulled as well as the headlight bucket, battery box, coils, etc... My question is this. It may be next weekend (maybe this weekend, but not sure) before I can get my helper over to help me remove the bottom end from the frame. Should I wait to remove the rear wheel and the front forks because pulling the engine will be harder with the frame on jack stands or am I good to go ahead and pull that stuff. I'm looking for things to do while the axhaust valves soak in Berrymans so I can get them clean enough to determine if they are useable or not, and also waiting for my new valves seats and retainers to get here from Flatout.
 
When I pulled the engine from my 1000, I laid the bike over on the right side, removed the engine bolts (previously loosened) and then picked the frame up around the engine. Worked nicely and I was able to do it by myself.
 
Nessism said:
When I pulled the engine from my 1000, I laid the bike over on the right side, removed the engine bolts (previously loosened) and then picked the frame up around the engine. Worked nicely and I was able to do it by myself.
Click to expand...

That's why you are a mechanical genius and I am a computer programmer fumbling in the dark Ed. THANKS! I should do this before pulling the rear and the forks or after?
 
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Honestly....with the head and cylinders removed, it should be no sweat to just lift out of there by yourself.

When I've done mine, (the drag bike), I had the wheels still on, but it is so low I could straddle the frame as I rassled it over and out.
That's with the head and cylinder on. Only thing off was the carbs and clutch basket.

(I'm just an out of shape, little guy in his early 50s):D
 
Thanks guys I really appreciate it. Here is a picture recap of where I am on this thing.

Where we started.. actually this predates my 4 into 1.

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Where we are now.....

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I don't think it matters much what order you pull things off the frame.

One nice thing about this method is that it doesn't strain your back very much (mine is feeling the abuse of years of wrenching and playing sports). This method also doesn't scratch up the frame.

Good luck and have fun.:)
 
Here is my original head, note the lack of the "D" hump at the bottom of the exhaust port and the one of 5 buggered up header bolt holes.

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Here is the replacement head with the "D" exhaust port and pretty pretty bolt holes. This head was badly carboned. It was cleaned by letting Seafoam soak in there, wire brush, rinse with carb cleaner and repeat.

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Replacement head top view, again cleaned with carb cleaner, seamfoam, and elbow grease.

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These are gonna need a good soak....

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I'll have an after on this soon, I'm in the final stages of scraping, scrubbing and cursing this nasty thing. The upside is not one bit of scoring inside the cylinders.

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So you are going with a 1100G head on your 1000? I assume it's a direct bolt on other than the valve cover right?

I need a head for my 1000S and ebay is being stingy. My bike is supposed to have a CV carb head so early VM carb heads are not going to work for me.

Regarding cleaning those parts, automotive machine shops can hot tank them and they will come cleaner than 1000 hours scrubbing by yourself. I think I'm going to go that way when the time comes on my engine.
 
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Nessism said:
So you are going with a 1100G head on your 1000? I assume it's a direct bolt on other than the valve cover right?

I need a head for my 1000S and ebay is being stingy. My bike is supposed to have a CV carb head so early VM carb heads are not going to work for me.

Regarding cleaning those parts, automotive machine shops can hot tank them and they will come cleaner than 1000 hours scrubbing by yourself. I think I'm going to go that way when the time comes on my engine.
Click to expand...

Yes, I bought it via the net from a salvage yard. It was sold to me as a 1000G head, but when I got it turned out to be an 1100G. They were very, very, very shady and would never deal with them again, I just thank god it's actually something that will fit. It's a straight bolt up other than as you said the valve cover being different bolt pattern.

I have to change machine shops. The one I used for the head looked at me like I was from mars when I asked if they could "hot tank" it. I'm going to go somewhere else with the block. I'll see what they say.
 
Focus on cleaning the piston ring area the most, Nice shiny pistons won't stay that way for long anyway. I use lacquer thinner and paint thinner to clean with, works pretty good.
 
duaneage said:
Focus on cleaning the piston ring area the most, Nice shiny pistons won't stay that way for long anyway. I use lacquer thinner and paint thinner to clean with, works pretty good.
Click to expand...

I actually wound up getting a steal (hopefully not a "too good to be true" steal) on stock pistons from an 1100, so it looks like it's actually getting bored out, and my stock pistons will be available.
 
Posted it on another site, but here we are as of night before last. The steering stem is still on pending getting the nut off without special tool "suzuki Socket 748374-dgd7773" or whatever the hell the number was. I also didn't have a wrench big enough for the swingarm, but the guy who is going to do the frame welding for me does, so gonna take it off when I get out there this weekend.


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