Removing o-rings from carb pieces

[scott]

A new OEM petcock didn't address my fuel in the oil problem so I'm doing the full carb cleaning / o-ring replacement process. Is there a trick to remove the old o-rings from the carb pieces? For example, the first piece I'm working on is the Needle Valve Seat. I've tried using a watch pin tool, a razor blade, etc. I feel like I'm marring up the metal but do I just keep picking at it? Should I just dip the piece with the o-ring and count on it "disintegrating"?

 

[scott]

Success - I was able to hook it with a safety pin and pry it off.

 

[Larry D]

The old orings are useless, just rip 'em out of there. With the new ones, take a bit more care. Sometimes they are a bit difficult to get on. I just put some spit on them which helps to slip them on.

 

[scott]

The old orings are useless, just rip 'em out of there.

Yeah - I wasn't trying to be careful with the oring, I just couldn't seem to snag it! Finally got it though

 

[bwringer]

A pick is the right tool for the job.

Basically, slightly overgrown versions of what the dentist uses to stab holes in your gums and scrape your teeth.

 

[Mike]

If you don't have a set, get one

 

[chuckycheese]

Scalpel

Scalpel

I always cut through them with a scalpel. But, don't cut your finger!

By the way, there's really no need to dip the needle valve assembly in the 'drink'.

 

[Redman]

A new OEM petcock didn't address my fuel in the oil problem so I'm doing the full carb cleaning / o-ring replacement process.
....
....

Great closeup photo, with white background. Impressive.

SO you are all set with removing/replacing the orings.

The oring on the float valve seat (as shown in photo) is, I think, the only oring that could possibly cause an gas overflow into your oil. The other orings can cause other leak/problems, but not the gas overflow.

Other cause of the gas overflow can be:
- if the float valve needle (the part not included in your photo) is worn so that it doesnt seal. MAybe show photos of those.
- if float height adjustment is way off such that doesnt close the needle (as I just experenced).
- and I have heard that posssibly the little spring in the float needle can break or get real week or get stuck, such that the float adjustment is effectivly way off and the needle doesnt close off.

ANd something that helped me recently:
Reinstall carbs and gas supply but leave off the airbox, and after some time maybe can see which carb is the one that is overflowing.

opps, you were not asking about causes of gas overflow.

.

 

[Guest]

I picked up a set of looks like dental picks at Northern Tool. Bent a very small hook at the end of one of em with a pair of needle nosed pliers. Works great for these types of things. Works especially well for the mix screw washer and oring in CV's
Also heard of some using the smaller guitar strings.

 

[Tom R]

Don't forget that you have to jab the pick in your thumb before you're finished! I usually wait until the last one; but I procrastinate on a lot of things.

 

[scott]

The oring on the float valve seat (as shown in photo) is, I think, the only oring that could possibly cause an gas overflow into your oil.

It is probably wishful thinking that the O-rings would fix the gas overflow but I figured I ought to start going down the list of maintenance tasks. Plus, the other likely causes would require me getting into the carbs anyway (whole new world for me).

Other cause of the gas overflow can be:
- if the float valve needle (the part not included in your photo) is worn so that it doesnt seal. MAybe show photos of those.

I'm not sure how to tell, but it looks okay to my very untrained eye. This picture is a bit blurry but hopefully it shows enough detail. I can take a better one after it's out of the carb dip if needed. I think the mark on the valve seat is from the pliers I used to remove it from the carb body - I'll have to pad the pliers with something when I remove it from the next carb.

- if float height adjustment is way off such that doesnt close the needle (as I just experenced).

I'm hoping to measure/adjust the float height as I reassemble the carbs. I've also seen posts about attaching a clear tube to the float drain plug in order to measure the fuel level but that process isn't really clear to me.

- and I have heard that posssibly the little spring in the float needle can break or get real week or get stuck, such that the float adjustment is effectivly way off and the needle doesnt close off.

I have the float needle in the dip now so if the issue is a stuck spring, maybe that will fix it. The spring seemed to be working fine before I put it in although I'm not sure how to tell if it is weak.

opps, you were not asking about causes of gas overflow.

That's the main problem I'm trying to solve right now so I definitely appreciate the advice!

 

[scott]

Dentist picks and scalpels!

I picked up a set of looks like dental picks at Northern Tool.

These look like they might be handy to have and seem like they would fit the bill. I'll have to pick up something like this.

Don't forget that you have to jab the pick in your thumb before you're finished! I usually wait until the last one; but I procrastinate on a lot of things.

I managed to "thread" the safety pin through the top layer of my finger already! Took me a sec to realize what happened when I couldn't pry up any more.

 

[scott]

ANd something that helped me recently:
Reinstall carbs and gas supply but leave off the airbox, and after some time maybe can see which carb is the one that is overflowing.

This may be what I have to do if I still have the problem after re-assembly. At least then I only have to replace one needle valve assembly. Doing all 4 of them at $32 / ea would be pricey!

 

[chuck hahn]

Save an old needle jet and throw it in your crab kit..they work well for picking orings..