• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Removing old hard gaskets

  • Thread starter Thread starter AX2007
  • Start date Start date
A

AX2007

Guest
Hey guys... It's been a while. I have new gaskets to install on my bike, but the old one is going to be a real pain to take off. What's the best way to get the stuck on gasket removed without damaging the valve cover? and what do I do about those little bits stuck to the head? I don't want them falling in (obviously). I tried a search but I couldn't find a solid answer...

Your help is appreciated.
 
AX2007 said:
Hey guys... It's been a while. I have new gaskets to install on my bike, but the old one is going to be a real pain to take off. What's the best way to get the stuck on gasket removed without damaging the valve cover? and what do I do about those little bits stuck to the head? I don't want them falling in (obviously). I tried a search but I couldn't find a solid answer...

Your help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

I'm sure I'll get some slack on here for this method, but I've used razor blades to scrape and then grey scotch-brite pads and it's worked well. Very dangerous though.
 
Glen said:
I'm sure I'll get some slack on here for this method, but I've used razor blades to scrape and then grey scotch-brite pads and it's worked well. Very dangerous though.
Click to expand...

I have too.
If you are careful it works. If your not careful, it can be expensive or painful.
 
careful use of a razor blade or a stanley knife blade and stuff loads of bog roll around the area to catch any bits.
 
Hi,

Soaking the gasket in various appropriate solvents can help. I've used razor blades, plastic blades, wood chisels, and putty knives, etc. Whatever it takes. Be very careful not to damage the surfaces.

Someone posted this a while back but there is some controversy. Read the comments on Youtube.

http://youtu.be/2lM7IgqMAiA

This is a the comment from the video maker:

"Glad my video is helping out others. Yes, green is for ferrous metals, and yellow for non ferrous metals. They also have white, which is a super heavy duty bristle pad that will take almost anything off, including tattoos if you wish. LOL
Light pressure when you work, and keep the RPM's of the die-grinder (or power drill, what ever you wish to use) at a medium level, which will allow the pad to do its job, and not trash it, or wear it out quickly."
Click to expand...
It seems the bristle pad wears as you use it and will leave residue. Be sure not to use too much speed or pressure. Clean parts thoroughly before reassembling. (Disclaimer: This is for informational purposes only. I have no first-hand experience with this product and have no opinion regarding its effectiveness.) :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I use a very sharp wood chisel laid flat so as not to gouge the head or cover . When I put the new gasket on, the head side gets a coat of non flavored chapstick. That way, next time the whole gasket comes off with the cover.
 
NAPA sells aerosol gasket remover. It is chemically similar to paint remover. IMO, the aerosol evaporates too quickly. I think that paint remover that soaks into the gasket would probably work better.

An ice scraper sometimes works. Shouldn't scratch anything. Putty knives often work well.

When using a razor blade, I clamp it into Vise Grips for safety. Instead of pressure, use small rapid strokes. Easier to control, less chance of damage.
 
Permatex makes a functional (if slow) aerosol gasket remover. It's probably just oven cleaner in a relabeled can. Pull the heavy pieces off first, of course. I've used a plastic putty knife and Scotchbrite in conjunction with this stuff. Best to mask off any painted areas you don't want harmed. It's tedious no matter how you do it...
 
What they said. And, might I add- a GENTLE touch of a metal file to smooth off gouges. Gentle.
 
I use sharpened putty knives. The most important thing is that you don't gouge anything, especially across the gasket surface. Small nicks running lengthwise are tolerable because the gasket will still seal them, they just can't go all the way across the gasket surface. No nicks is better.

Sit down and go slowly. Let it take as long as it takes. The better and cleaner your surface the better chance of a good seal. You don't want any oil leaks, right?
 
I use Seafoam and a brass brush (by hand, a Dremel will scratch the surface) for the little stuck bits, after using a wooden kebab stick to pry off larger bits.
 
Thanks everyone...

So far, for the valve cover, I've taken off all the big pieces by hand and let the remainder soak with Permatex gasket remover overnight. We'll see how it goes today.

I'll try the razor blade and vice grips technique on the oil pan gasket, which is stuck to the engine block (not the easiest place to work on).

I'm also a little worried with cleaning up the gasket remover. The directions indicate to just wipe it off, but I'm concerned about residue. What are your suggestions to clean the mating surfaces and any drips/overspray?

And when installing the new gaskets, besides the non-flavored chap stick trick, any other suggestions on how to install them? Should I use some sort of sealer, or just rub both surfaces with engine oil?

As always, thank you for your suggestions, comments, thought or ideas. They are very appreciated.
 
Spraying that stuff on your engine is a mistake, unless you masked all the surrounding area since it will remove the paint. When using that stuff I spray some into a cup and then dab it onto the gasket with a small paint brush.

The gasket is softened on the surface by the gasket remover but it only penetrates so deep. It may take a few applications before all the gasket is removed.

I suggest stuffing clean paper towels into the valve pockets to keep the debris entering the engine to a minimum. After you are done scraping there is sure to be chunks everywhere to clean out the valve pockets really well - use a flashlight to make sure you don't leave behind any chunks.

Before installing the valve cover down fill up the valve pocket with fresh engine oil.

Oh, and single edge razer blades are what I use to scrape the surfaces. Everything else I've tried just isn't sharp enough to do much good.
 
through my rebuild I used the stainless brush for the dremel tool. Got to be caredfull, easy to dig a belly into the surface if not attentive. I move quickly and carefully and nothing leaks today. Had to man, that 30 yr old base gasket was a raging bitch to get off! :lol:
 
matt1100 said:
through my rebuild I used the stainless brush for the dremel tool. Got to be caredfull, easy to dig a belly into the surface if not attentive. I move quickly and carefully and nothing leaks today. Had to man, that 30 yr old base gasket was a raging bitch to get off! :lol:
Click to expand...

I'm feeling your pain right about now... Some of it came off in nice big pieces, but a lot of it just left these sticky little chunks in hard to reach areas :mad:

But it is coming along... Slowly but surely. I'm just glad it's raining today, because it means I'm not missing a day of riding.
 
Once the bulk of the gasket is off try a fine whet stone keeping the stone wet with solvent.
 
aircraft remover.

just spray it on a shop towel, then dab it on the gasket.
Watch out for paint, obviously.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Valve Cover Gasket
Replies
6
Views
239
Who Dat?
W
S
To remove the cyl head or not? That is the question
Replies
14
Views
302
sacruickshank
S
S
Grime in Valve Cover
2
Replies
35
Views
575
rphillips
R
D
Real Wheel / Spline Removal / Inspection / Replace Questions
Replies
5
Views
161
Grimly
Grimly
G
1982 GS1000 Z US Version
Replies
10
Views
255
slayer61
slayer61
Back
Top