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Removing stator

  • Thread starter Thread starter my98xplorer
  • Start date Start date
M

my98xplorer

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i noticed a couple people talking about removing the stator rotor. Is that required to remove the stator itself?
 
The Rotor is a permanent magnet mounted on the end of the crank. The stator is mounted inside the stator cover by 3 screws. You just have to take that cover off and remove the 3 screws. They can be a pain in the butt to get out of there though and lot of folks suggest an impact driver. I was able to get mine out without a whole lot of trouble.

So no you don't have to take the rotor off.
 
joeadams said:
The Rotor is a permanent magnet mounted on the end of the crank. The stator is mounted inside the stator cover by 3 screws. You just have to take that cover off and remove the 3 screws. They can be a pain in the butt to get out of there though and lot of folks suggest an impact driver. I was able to get mine out without a whole lot of trouble.

So no you don't have to take the rotor off.
Click to expand...

great, my wife is gonna kill me if i have to buy any more parts for my bike!! :?
 
Re: Removing stator

my98xplorer said:
i noticed a couple people talking about removing the stator rotor. Is that required to remove the stator itself?
Click to expand...
I've had the pleasure of doing this a number of times because of a cracked stator cover.
1. Clymer manual
2. If you have the phillips screws on the cover, an impact driver
3. If you have capscrews, Allen wrenches
4. A new gasket
5. Form a Gasket
6. Oil ( found that I didn?t need to drain the oil I did loose about a cup of oil when I took the cover off)
7. Rags
8. Lock-Tite
9. Torque wrench

The procedure is pretty straight forward.
Note: mark all screws as they come out of the cover, they are not all the same size!
1. Take off the cover, the stator is mounted to the cover.
2. Follow the wiring to disconnect it (this is that hardest part)
3. Unscrew the stator from the cover (three screws on the stator and one on the two on wiring clamps
4. Reassemble in reverse order.
5. I use Lock-tite on all screws
6. Use form a gasket on both sides of new gaskets
7. Put the screws back in the holes they came out of.
8. Torque the screws to specs (Clymer Manual)
9. Let sit over night for the Form a Gasket to set.
10. Top off oil
11. Ride it!
If I missed something I?m sure on of the folks here will add it.
 
Re: Removing stator

Note: mark all screws as they come out of the cover, they are not all the same size!


1. So how do you fix that once youve already screwed that one up? I thought the reason i was leaking oil was cause i broke the gasket.

2. Is it just regualr engine oil in there or is it some kind of gear oil?

3. Is the oil in the stator cover the same oil thats used for the clutch?
 
As far as getting the right screws in the right holes, start with the longest one and put it in the hole it will tighten all the way down in and work your way from there. That's what I'd do.

The oil inside the stator cover is the oil you have in the engine. It is also the same oil that the clutch is in. So just add whatever amount of oil you need to the engine when you are done.
 
joeadams said:
As far as getting the right screws in the right holes, start with the longest one and put it in the hole it will tighten all the way down in and work your way from there. That's what I'd do.

The oil inside the stator cover is the oil you have in the engine. It is also the same oil that the clutch is in. So just add whatever amount of oil you need to the engine when you are done.
Click to expand...

i make a cardboard template and make holes in it so i can always get the screws in the correct place. i use that on both sides of the bike
 
Model paint on the long screw head and a dap where it comes from.

Torque the screws in a crossover pattern so the cover seats evenly, aluminum is not forgiving.
 
duaneage said:
Model paint on the long screw head and a dap where it comes from.

Torque the screws in a crossover pattern so the cover seats evenly, aluminum is not forgiving.
Click to expand...

So are the bolts are the same exept for the long one??
 
I think there are 3 different sizes. You should be able to tell by looking at them if they are the same or not. The only thing different about them is the length. The long ones will only go into the holes for the long ones. Once those holes are claimed the second longest ones will only go into the right holes and so on. If you put a long screw into a short hole it won't even come close to tightening all the way down. Do a dry fit with just the cover to get your hole/screw locations right and then choose one of the above strategies to keep them straight.
 
my98xplorer said:
duaneage said:
Model paint on the long screw head and a dap where it comes from.

Torque the screws in a crossover pattern so the cover seats evenly, aluminum is not forgiving.
Click to expand...

So are the bolts are the same exept for the long one??
Click to expand...

I use a dab of red paint on any long screw since it could damage the threads in a short screw should it bottom out. I have some green for the medium screws and the rest I just leave alone.

Did this for the first time 20 years agao when I did a clutch on my CB550. I spent more time figuring out what screw went where than I did swapping the clutch pack out.
 
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