Removing Trip Meter Reset Knob - 82 450E

[Guest]

Hey all, does anyone know definitely 100% for sure how to remove the trip meter reset knob on an 82 450E speedo?

I've read three different ways on here by searching:

- Yank it off, it's a press fit
- Screw it off, it's a left hand thread
- There's a small screw holding it on

I can't see a screw anywhere holding it on, I can't unscrew it as a left hand thread as it just spins freely clockwise, and I've tried some gentle yanking but it won't budge.

Any clue as to whether I should try yanking harder or if I'm missing something obvious? I really don't want to bust it...

 

[Buddy]

All that I've come in contact with just pulled off. Someone may have put some glue on it. You might try heating it with a hair dryer to loosen it up.

Buddy

 

[rustybronco]

Pete, if it is pressed on, try gripping the lower portion of the knob and levering it off with a pair of dike's

Diags or Dikes (a portmanteau of "Diagonal CutterS" is pronounced "dikes")

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

 

[chuck hahn]

remove the back cover and reach in with some hemostats and hold the shaft and unscrew it?????

 

[chuck hahn]

I cant see it pressed on or having to pry it off..the thin walls of the metal cage around the wheels and that little E clip arent exactly designed to withstand the forces that would be applied by pressing the knob on.. glued on maybe but i really am skeptical of it being "pressed" on in any way.

 

[chuck hahn]

No glue or retainer screw in the end?????

 

[Guest]

Thanks heaps guys, I'm leaning towards trying a harder yank on it tonight.

I undid the screws holding the face on last night but wasn't game to remove the needle so I couldn't really make out too much in there.

However what I did see looked a lot like DP's picture there on the outside, so I will try to yank a bit harder tonight without breaking anything.

Dale: I'll try that tip for sure! And thanks for clarification on terminology, I was a little lost at first on your post

Chuck: It does look like the shaft would be metal from the brief glimpse I could see down the side of the gauge face, so yes I'd also be suprised if it was glued, although of course it could be a PO "modification"...

I'll let you know how I get on, hope to get back to it tonight.

 

[chuck hahn]

If you can get some hemos or thin needle nose up to hold that shaft as you "yank" It certainly wont hurt as far as stabalizing it till you have the knob off and are sure of the methodology used!!!

 

[Guest]

If you can get some hemos or thin needle nose up to hold that shaft as you "yank" It certainly wont hurt as far as stabalizing it till you have the knob off and are sure of the methodology used!!!

Good call Chuck, that makes sense, not sure if I'll have thin enough pliers to get in there without removing the needle and gauge face though.

If I do pluck up enough courage to remove the needle, is there a flat spot on the shaft for it to centre on or something or is it really just a matter of marking exactly where it lies on the face and lining it up again when putting it back on?

 

[chuck hahn]

Ive never actually removed a needle from the speedo or a tach.

 

[Guest]

Ive never actually removed a needle from the speedo or a tach.

Aaaah! Hopefully one of the other guys who has can chime in with any tips

 

[rustybronco]

I can try my clock 'hand' levers later on this evening. if it works, I'll post up a picture so you can make a pair for yourself.


http://www.ofrei.com/images/msa05.013.jpg

 

[Guest]

All I know about gauge faces I learn from this tread:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=130920&highlight=guage+face

Post #33 Explains it.

DP

Aaaah thanks! Missed that one in my searching somehow...

I can try my clock 'hand' levers later on this evening. if it works, I'll post up a picture so you can make a pair for yourself.


http://www.ofrei.com/images/msa05.013.jpg

They look like they should do the trick Dale, keen to see if they work

 

[1948man]

My bike didn't have that knob and I ordered one. It just presses in on my '83 1100GL.

 

[Guest]

It's threaded

Tried your suggestion with something down that hole and a hammer Dale, but no joy:



I ended up taking note of the needle position:



Used a small pair of flat blade screwdrivers as levers and pried the needle off. Almost lost it and almost broke the shaft I think but luckily enough only almost... it's still all good.



Tried a heap more prying but no joy, so I tried holding the shaft and spinning the knob... it's a left hand thread screw on job...



Next step is to figure out the best way of cleaning all the grunge out... kero, degreaser, or metho...



The little orange bits in there are from where I drilled the extra drain holes after using the existing ones as part of my LED conversion. Guess I should've dismantled them when doing that in the first place...

 

[rustybronco]

Naptha/ Shellite/ lighter fluid?

You may want to check if it's safe to use on certain plastics. (if you are very careful, try brakeclean)

if you can help it, try not to clean the hairspring. the only thing 'I' think you need to clean and re-lube are the bushings the speedometer shaft rides in. if you don't have access to a good clock oil for those bushings, I would suggest you use Mobil 1 5w50 synthetic engine oil or if that's not readily available, a good synthetic 5W30/40 engine oil.

straighten a paper clip, dip it into the oil 25 mm's or so, remove and apply the 'oiler' to the intersection of where the shaft and bushing touch. I 'THINK' two applications per bushing should be enough, but it's hard to tell without seeing the size of the bushing and the amount being held on the paper clip. don't oil as over oiling will cause 'all' the oil to be drawn out of the 'bearing'.

that's what I would do (and did for that matter).

 

[Guest]

Naptha/ Shellite/ lighter fluid?

You may want to check if it's safe to use on certain plastics. (if you are very careful, try brakeclean)

if you can help it, try not to clean the hairspring. the only thing 'I' think you need to clean and re-lube are the bushings the speedometer shaft rides in. if you don't have access to a good clock oil for those bushings, I would suggest you use Mobil 1 5w50 synthetic engine oil or if that's not readily available, a good synthetic 5W30/40 engine oil.

straighten a paper clip, dip it into the oil 25 mm's or so, remove and apply the 'oiler' to the intersection of where the shaft and bushing touch. I 'THINK' two applications per bushing should be enough, but it's hard to tell without seeing the size of the bushing and the amount being held on the paper clip. don't oil as over oiling will cause 'all' the oil to be drawn out of the 'bearing'.

that's what I would do (and did for that matter).

Cool thanks Dale.

I *may* still have some lighter fluid from when I had a zippo when I smoked... as for the oil, I don't think I have anything synthetic in the garage at all, I'm pretty sure it's all mineral oil.

Edit: Forgot to say definitely no clock oil either...

 

[Guest]

Found some lighter fluid in the bar but no go on the oil. I used the degreaser only on the plastic casing and the outside of the base and thread where the cables connect:

I used some cotton buds (think you guys call them Q tips?) and wiped the lighter fluid around the areas I thought I should to give them a bit of a clean up.

Mainly I concentrated on getting those plastic shavings from drilling the new drain holes out of there. I have a suspicion all the ones stuck to the speedo bits and pieces may have been the culprit

You can see some of them quite obviously in the third photo below which was taken after I degreased the threads and base but before I used the lighter fluid to clean the mechanisms. There was an awful lot more around the place, especially in the speedo.

Oh, and I sprayed the degreaser onto a rag and then wiped them down, I didn't spray degreaser directly onto the surfaces to be cleaned as I didn't want it to get in the mechanisms.

Crossed my fingers it wasn't a stupid move and used some of the Castrol GTX Diesel oil I'm putting in the 450 instead as it's the only thing around that's 40w. No synthetic oil anywhere at all and definitely no clock or gear oil.

I did drop some on top where the needle sits as well.

Got the drill and gave them both a test and they seem to work, so hopefully they'll be good now...

 

[rustybronco]

Crossed my fingers it wasn't a stupid move and used some of the Castrol GTX Diesel oil I'm putting in the 450 instead as it's the only thing around that's 40w. No synthetic oil anywhere at all and definitely no clock or gear oil.

What's the worst thing that can happen? you have to reapply it in 5 years?

 

[Guest]

What's the worst thing that can happen? you have to reapply it in 5 years?

That's along the lines of what I was thinking... figured it can't be too bad

Thanks again for your help Dale (and all you other guys how posted too of course!)