G
gaillarry
Guest
Steve: Thanks very much, now have lights. Have to shorten some wires and clean up the connections but I'm making progress !!!
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G
gaillarry
Guest
The bike has no air box, has double style K&N air filters, so there's room on the right side of the frame to mount it.
G
gaillarry
Guest
Good news is now I have power to the lights, ignition, gauges and signals but no starter turning over.
With a jumper wire I jumped the solenoid and the starter turns over. From the solenoid there's a single yellow/green wire to the starter button on the handlebar switch. When I push the starter button I have power to the solenoid on the y/g wire. I swapped out the solenoid with another one and the same results???
(bike has no side stand switch or clutch safety switch)
With a jumper wire I jumped the solenoid and the starter turns over. From the solenoid there's a single yellow/green wire to the starter button on the handlebar switch. When I push the starter button I have power to the solenoid on the y/g wire. I swapped out the solenoid with another one and the same results???
(bike has no side stand switch or clutch safety switch)
M
Matchless
Guest
Have you checked that you have a ground on the solenoid casing. Usually this is the battery box casing ground. Some black/white wire with a ring terminal under a mounting screw.
G
gaillarry
Guest
Use the six wire one- follow duaneage's wiring stuff. The eight wire is designed to vary the field strength to control stator output- you just have the fixed magnet anything goes design.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Just so you (and all the others) know, the side stand switch has NOTHING to do with starting the engine.
The only function of that switch is to turn on the light on the instrument panel.
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G
gaillarry
Guest
I've already wired in the 8 wire r/r: 3 yellow for stator, two green for battery ground and two red for battery positive. The black sensor wire is not hooked up or should it be?
M
Matchless
Guest
That sensor wire should be wired up to a switched power (ignition on) point. If direct to the battery positive terminal, it might cause the battery to be drained over a period, but will work.
G
gaillarry
Guest
Thanks for the input, I'll wire it to the tailight.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Do yourself a favor, though. When the bike is running, compare the voltage at the tail light connector to the voltage at the battery.
I have seen batteries overcharge because of poor connections to the tail light, resulting in a voltage drop. The R/R keeps increasing its output until it finally 'sees' proper voltage at its sense point, but the battery is getting overcharged.
Unless you have plans for your extra fuse locations, connect your R/R sense wire to one of them. If you have the relay providing power from the battery to the fuse panel, you will have very close to battery voltage at the fuse panel, and it will be a switched source, making it perfect for the sense wire.
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G
gaillarry
Guest
I have spare fuse spots on the fuse panel and it's powered by the relay. I'll wire the sense wire to it, thanks.
D
DanTheMan
Guest
Looking good; I bought the spade type fuse box similar to yours (they sure are made chintzy for a lot of money), took it apart and seperated the strips inside with a dremel grinder (mine has eight fuse slots) and did away with the inline fuse thing for the switched power wire. I still have 3 inline fuses attached to the battery that I haven't incorporated into the fuse block, but they'll be done before I'm riding again in March.
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