• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Replacement 1st Gen Turn signal controller

Putzing with it as I can. What I really need to do is see if I can separate the potted board from the original TSCU's housing, then we'll know if the 'self cancel' version of this will fit.
 
That device sure looks like it could be an external variant of what Andre mounted inside the LED flasher, or something quite similar.
(not asking for details just stating what I see)


I asked Robert Barr if he would post up the details to his replacement unit. His looks like it will have the lowest parts count and might be the best solution going so far. But if not, this one is quite far along in the process. :)

Decided to go with OSHpark's board service rather than the usual 'China mart' boards as they are made in the USA.
 
Last edited:
Nice work Dale. The breath of your knowledge is remarkable. Very few people could get something like that working. Hope your self cancel version works as well.

Good luck
 
Thanks Ed for the kind words. It's been a delight trying to work out the the details. There is so much I've forgotten over the years. Kind of nice to pick it back up once again.

I'm confident version 2 will work just as well. :)
 
rustybronco said:
That device sure looks like it could be an external variant of what Andre mounted inside the LED flasher, or something quite similar.
(not asking for details just stating what I see)
Click to expand...

I did study what Andre has done and simply looked for an alternative implementation that did not involve modification of such a cheap off the shelf item.

The solution was to embedded the conversion between old and new flasher in the harness and make it transparent.

Basically the original 3 prong Suzuki flasher wants a ground to disable the flash and the new flashers want a +12V to disable ( i think; what ever it is opposite).

The mod inverts that.
 
rustybronco said:
Updated the first post to reflect proposed changes to date.
Click to expand...

This is what it would look like with a micro controller. I did not quite follow the output drivers so it might be simplified as well. I don't really see the need for the trannys for a micro-controller.


TSCU_replacement_zpsbc32dd45.jpg
 
Unfortunately I didn't feel like sitting down trying to wrap my head around coding a micro controller. Maybe someday when I have the time I will. I've had wallowgreens's (Martin) diagram, artwork and code for two years now, then there is Robert Barr's pic solution so here I am cranking on what I know, a hardware based solution. :)
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
Unfortunately I didn't feel like sitting down trying to wrap my head around coding a micro controller. Maybe someday when I have the time I will. I've had wallowgreens's (Martin) diagram, artwork and code for two years now, then there is Robert Barr's pic solution so here I am cranking on what I know, a hardware based solution. :)
Click to expand...

If Martin used a small controller then that would be the easiest thing to reproduce. Assuming he has a working unit( he told me in the end he just did it for himself) then just reproducing they design would be easiest. Certainly would be easier to produce and test.
 
What would be the easiest and quickest to produce at this point would be Mr Barr's picaxe solution.

Neither here nor there at this point. Going forward with this.
 
Last edited:
Hey Jim,

What's your point with continuing to hound Dale? You said your peace so time to let it be.
 
Although I may disagree with Jim from time to time, I do listen to what he has to say.

Jim, if I don't know what component to use, I tend to use a bit of over kill. For example, those P-channel MOFETs are rated 27A. Very much over kill for two signal lamps that draw 2.86A.
Another example of what I'm using. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111314996551?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ($.08 ea Vs $.19)

I really wouldn't worry to much about it as I use what I can find on the cheep even if it is overkill. I've already planned on down sizing the P-channels to FPQ17P06's which are $.65 each instead of $1.21. I found the PK6E's for $.32 each and they are rated 15kV air and 8kV contact. :D
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
Hey Jim,

What's your point with continuing to hound Dale? You said your peace so time to let it be.
Click to expand...

Ed,
That is a pretty broad brush your wielding there, I would ask "Don't you think", but obviously you don't so I'm telling you such.

I can't really know why Dale is posting schematics, but I can only gather it is to invite comment. Now while I certainly don't have the time or inclination to get involved with his design, there are some things of mild and curious interest to me and of those things I have commented.

I will not ask you to explain your intents (I presume to protect Dale), but I will tell you in no uncertain terms, that your bias to assume that I am goading, hounding or otherwise harassing Dale is a direct reflection of you own biases and not due to any actions of mine.

Jim
 
As there are a few members who are into electronics on this board, I did post the schematic at least in as small part to invite comments and for those who care to follow along, just see what I'm doing as the work progresses.

I may fall flat on my face with this, But it will one heck of a ride. :D
(I doubt I'll fail)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top