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Replacement for the horrible brake light switch?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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The subject says it all. The front brake light switch on my GS650 is horrible. It needs constant cleaning and adjustment. I have to use my rear brake every time I slow down - just to make sure the light comes on. Buying a brand new switch does not help - after a couple of months it becomes as bad as the original switch made in 1983.
Is there a higher quality replacement part that would fit without too much drilling and welding? Or maybe a pressure activated switch like the one I had on my old Honda CB-450? Please help.
 
The stock ones do suck...there is a place that makes a replacement for the stock switch using a hydraulic switch but I don't remember the name of the place.

Hap
 
Uhm... One more question - what kind of banjo bolts does my GS650GLZ use? 1.0mm or 1.25mm thread pitch? I don't really want to disassemble my brake system just to measure the bolt, so the information would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'm not sure It is a very fine thread so I would say 1.0 mm
 
Thanks Dancer. I have ordered the pressure switch with 1.0mm thread. In the worst case I'll put it on eBay and get [some of] my money back.
 
When you get it installed, do a product evaluation and put it in the Product Review Section of the forum. Alot of people would be interested in your findings.


Hap
 
Hello Hap,
I will post a review as soon as I try the switch. I'm sure many other GS riders would be happy to replace the factory part with something more reliable.
 
I discovered my brake lights only activate after moderate to hard braking, so I'd definitely be interested in a review not only of how well it works, but also of how easy or difficult it was to retrofit.

By the way, when I checked the Dennis Kirk link, it seemed that they had listed the other size as the one for most Japanese bikes, so we'll also be interested to know if the one you ordered is actually the correct one.

Thanks!
Steve 8)
 
I finally received my hydraulic brake light switch and installed it (see my report in the "Product Reviews" forum: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=21717)
The whole installation took no more than ten minutes. I wrapped the brake line with paper towels to keep the brake fluid off the paint. Then I took out the banjo bolt. Installed the switch using two new aluminum gaskets (included). Opened the headlight bowl. Unplugged the wires going to the old switch. Plugged the new switch in. Closed the bowl. And finally pumped the brakes to let the air out. The easiest way to do that is to lean the bike on the left side at about 45 degrees angle (be careful not to drop it!) and to squeeze the brake lever about 10-20 times.
That's it. From now on, I can be sure my brake light will come on when I use the brakes and will come off when I don't use the brakes.
 
P.S. My GS650 uses 1.0mm banjo bolts. Other GS models should use the same, as I understand.
 
Thats good to know! I was thinking of going to a hyd switch when I get steel lines for the front. I'll be doing that for sure now. That touchy switch under the lever is quite unreliable. Thanks for testing it out :)
 
Hello srivett,
No, I did not replace the rear switch. I have never had a problem with the old one. "If it's not broken, don't fix it." :-)
 
You can also swap out your brake lever/master cylinder assembly with one from nearly any japanese bike with a plunger-type switch instead of the crappy slider-type switch that the GS's came with.


I swapped mine out with one from an early 90's Katana, and it came with a 4-position adjustable brake lever, to boot (and a newer master cylinder never hurts - especially one where you can actually see through the insepection bubble!!!).

You'll have to drain and re-fill your front brakes to do the swap, but I'll wager that most of you could use a brake flush and fill anyways - it's a neglected part of routine maintenance.

They can be found in numbers from various bikes on eBay for 20 bucks or less - just make sure that you keep the clamp portion from your original master cylinder, as mine had the mirror mount in it.

-Q!
 
just make sure that you keep the clamp portion from your original master cylinder, as mine had the mirror mount in it.
Click to expand...
Speaking of mirror mounts... Somehow I got addicted to bar-end mirrors. 8O
 
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