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Replacing cams 78 GS1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter morrison
  • Start date Start date
I wouldn't put those cams in my worst enemy's bike. :eek: I have some stock ones from a '78 that I'll give you for the cost of freight.
 
renobruce said:
I wouldn't put those cams in my worst enemy's bike. :eek: I have some stock ones from a '78 that I'll give you for the cost of freight.
Click to expand...

You figure out the freight, I'll send the paypal.. 914 dryden dr. toledo, ohio 43612.
 
I'd try Scotchbrite first and see how they look. Stay clear of wire wheels and similar with power tools. If the rust doesn't clean up easily I'd get new cams.
 
Well I got the cams out and cleaned up. Using a super fine pad on a die grinder,. Turned out good.
001-2.jpg

But if you look closely you can see on the Right side on the exhaust cam is slightly blue.
004.jpg

And that is the only one doing that. So I decided to look at the cap. It is pitted. Cap A. And is the only one slightly pitted.
009-1.jpg

If you look on the right the main pitting is in the dark areas. Should I go about and polish those up to to get rid of the pits?
 
I'd leave the pits alone assuming they are into the metal and won't abrade against anything. That blue is common and nothing to worry about, although it does reference some hot running in the past.
 
Here is some head shots. A little scoring in the journal. And I dont see a bearing, so now what?
013.jpg
015.jpg
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sorry for the crappy pictures.
 
Are you talking from experience? Because if so it'll be back together this evening.
 
morrison said:
Are you talking from experience? Because if so it'll be back together this evening.
Click to expand...

You can't put metal back into those pits, or those scored journals. Your only reasonable option is to put it back together. From what I can see it will be fine. Just be careful with the next few valve adjustments and inspect the cams for possible deterioration of the lobes (which is unlikely).
 
Looks ok to me. Just have a look that the cam caps match up with the head. They are machined together in the factory and somebody might have done a mismatch on that head before.
 
All the caps are matched up. I'm going to measure the hieght of all the lobes and see what kind of wear if any are there. Gonna to look into the valve adjustment procedure now and get it going. Thanks everyone with your input. It is appreciated.
 
there isnt a bearing..its just the cams running in the aluminum..I am no expert, but i dont think youll have any troubles. Be sure to tighten each cap evenly from side to side..little bits at a time till its time to put the torque wrench in play. Throw a thin smear of engine builders assembly lube on them as well..
 
Yeah I figured there wasn't a bearing present in any part of the head. Where should I be going to get shim kits for the valves? Or is that something that i will need to get once i know what shims I'll need?
 
Make a simple chart number 1 thru 4 intake and a column for 1 thru 4 exhaust. Measure the gaps on each one and note what shim thickness is in each one. Then you can determine which ones you can shuffle around to a different bucket to bring things into tolerance.. its kinda a shell game of sorts. Once you got as many as you can right..then you write down what cylinder..either intake or exhaust ..you will need to buy a shim for. Make sense??
 
chuck hahn said:
Make a simple chart number 1 thru 4 intake and a column for 1 thru 4 exhaust. Measure the gaps on each one and note what shim thickness is in each one. Then you can determine which ones you can shuffle around to a different bucket to bring things into tolerance.. its kinda a shell game of sorts. Once you got as many as you can right..then you write down what cylinder..either intake or exhaust ..you will need to buy a shim for. Make sense??
Click to expand...

Chuck I don't think you could have made it anymore simple. I appreciate the help. Ill get it together tomo when I bring home my feeler gauges and assembly lube. And will let you know the outcome. Thanks again.
 
bring along dial calipers as well ( preferably MM readable ) to measure the shims if the numbers are worn off.. and heres a tip Rustybronco passed on. Install shims with the numbers towards the pistons..that way the cams rolling over them dont wear the numbers off.. Then next time you need to do valves youll have numbers left to read.
 
Failed tonight. Installed the the exhaust cam and then everytime I tried setting the intake cam in the crank would advance a little bit. Untill I notice I had installed the exhaust cam while having a link kind of kinked on the crank. Had a long day at work today so I closed up the garage and will check the valve clearance tomo.

I did take the shims out individually the write down the sizes. Found two with nothing on. Is this a common size shim??
 
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