Replacing Clutch. Concerns.

[eddiev]

Hi to all and thanks again for all the help and support. I hope everyone is enjoying the new riding season.
I'm replacing my clutch on a 1982 gs1100gl and have some concerns.

1) Can anyone verify the order of plates. I'm wondering if they could have been installed wrong. I can't seem to get out my last plate which is steel and the manual says to start with a fiber plate (they said cork actually, I assume they mean the friction plate). I'm not too worried about getting the last plate out just that the order may have been wrong. Could that be?

2) Also the hub nut is very loose. I can turn it with my fingers. Only that the bend of the washer is holding it from coming off. The manual indicates between 36 and 50 ft-lbs on this nut. Does that sound right.

I would have had the hub off already and gotten to the last plate but I spent most of the night scraping off the old gasket.

Thanks again and happy riding.
Eddie V

 

[reddirtrider]

I'm going off memory, but I don't believe the last plate comes out. The hub nut should definetly not be loose.

 

[Bribird]

The last plate I believe is held in place by a wire that wraps around the basket and locks it into place. If your are replacing the metal plates you will need to pull the basket to get that inner plate off. If you are doing just the friction plates...leave it alone ...and start with the fiber disk..... and make sure that bolt is like 40-50 ft lbs and then re-bend that washer to hold it.

 

[eddiev]

Thanks a bunch.
I am replacing the steel. Do you think it's allright if I leave that one steel plate in and only replace the remaining 8?
Then I can just tighten the hub nut and not worry about getting the basket off.

Thanks.
Eddie V

 

[Road_Clam]

Hi to all and thanks again for all the help and support. I hope everyone is enjoying the new riding season.
I'm replacing my clutch on a 1982 gs1100gl and have some concerns.

1) Can anyone verify the order of plates. I'm wondering if they could have been installed wrong. I can't seem to get out my last plate which is steel and the manual says to start with a fiber plate (they said cork actually, I assume they mean the friction plate). I'm not too worried about getting the last plate out just that the order may have been wrong. Could that be?

2) Also the hub nut is very loose. I can turn it with my fingers. Only that the bend of the washer is holding it from coming off. The manual indicates between 36 and 50 ft-lbs on this nut. Does that sound right.

I would have had the hub off already and gotten to the last plate but I spent most of the night scraping off the old gasket.

Thanks again and happy riding.
Eddie V

So what you have is a steel driven plate, mated against the inner hub? Thats definately wrong. "Start with fibre, and with fibre" , That means somewhere along the stack of plates there were 2 drive plates mated together. Have you been driving your bike prior? What prompted you to dissasemble the clutch?

 

[hillsy]

Thanks a bunch.
I am replacing the steel. Do you think it's allright if I leave that one steel plate in and only replace the remaining 8?
Then I can just tighten the hub nut and not worry about getting the basket off.

Thanks.
Eddie V

I would replace it. The nut is already loose on the basket, right? - that's the hardest part already done

Oh - and if you are putting in new friction plates (you should), don't forget to soak them overnight in new engine oil.

 

[82Shafty]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=117654&highlight=clutch+chronicles&page=2

Same bike, same thing.

Steel is on the bottom of the drum which is held in place by the piano wire and a there is a spring washer under that first steel.

In the post that I original started above, my fibers started to slip on me again (even after scuffing and installing new springs) and therefore I had to go with new frictions fibers. After I installed the new fibers she was a whole new machine.

I also built myself a clutch hub tool out of an old steel.

Also, be sure to install all steels the same direction (rounded vs. flat side)

I had to start a thread on that one as well LOL.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...8434&highlight=Clutch+steels+direction&page=2

 

[RacingJake]

Thanks a bunch.
I am replacing the steel. Do you think it's allright if I leave that one steel plate in and only replace the remaining 8?
Then I can just tighten the hub nut and not worry about getting the basket off.

Thanks.
Eddie V

Just leave that one steel plate alone, it won't hurt anything. Cause if you remove the wire you'll most likey won't be able to re-install it.

Just start with a fiber then a steel then a fiber and so on until you end up with a fiber against the pressure plate.

 

[Dogma]

I would replace it. The nut is already loose on the basket, right? - that's the hardest part already done

Oh - and if you are putting in new friction plates (you should), don't forget to soak them overnight in new engine oil.

Eh? Why the soaking?

 

[reddirtrider]

Eh? Why the soaking?

Otherwise they won't get oil all over their surface and penetrated into the fibers since they are clamped together in normal mode. They'll wear out very fast.

 

[Road_Clam]

Otherwise they won't get oil all over their surface and penetrated into the fibers since they are clamped together in normal mode. They'll wear out very fast.

Not exactly.

It's good practice to soak new clutch fiber plates overnight, so the fiber material soaks up oil, and softens them up a bit. The plates won't "heat glaze" for the first times of operation.

 

[eddiev]

Thanks for all the replies. You guys are a great help. Yes, I'm changing the fibers. I just figured I'll change the steel also and yes I know about soaking them (the fibers). I was figuring on about 10 minutes in 10W-40.
So here's where I think I'm going.
1) I tighten the hub nut leaving the inner steel plate alone.
2) start with fiber and end with fiber. ( 9 of each in all counting the inner steel).
3) keep direction of the steel the same.

Any advise on the gasket. Should I use any sealer? I'm having a hard time getting the old one all cleaned off. For all I know this may be the first time this case has been off.

Does anyone know how much torque on the case bolts?

Thanks again.
Eddie V

 

[reddirtrider]

Any advise on the gasket. Should I use any sealer? I'm having a hard time getting the old one all cleaned off. For all I know this may be the first time this case has been off.

Thanks again.
Eddie V

I coat my gaskets with a thin film of oil on both sides. This makes taking them on off easier and I never have any leaks.

 

[Dogma]

Not exactly.

It's good practice to soak new clutch fiber plates overnight, so the fiber material soaks up oil, and softens them up a bit. The plates won't "heat glaze" for the first times of operation.

Thanks for the timely info, guys. I just loaded in a fresh stack of OEM friction plates this week, but I haven't been able to ride it. I'll pop 'em back out for a soak while I finish other things.

 

[Rkt-Rch]

steel/fibers

steel/fibers

Just a litle info also, I just took my 85 GS700ES clutch apart and mine also has the steel plate on or against the inner hub with the retaining wire holding it in and according to the diagram breakdown that is how it came stock. Mine holds 8/8 of both.

 

[eddiev]

Thanks again for all the replies. I'm also in process of rebuilding my carbs so I won't know how the clutch will be working for awhile.
By the way, the reason I decided to change it was it had hardly any friction zone left. Cable had been replaced already but it had to be way adjusted out to grab. So much so that I repivoted the arm on the clutch shaft to get more room.
Also the gears felt very hard engaging. I'm wondering if that is due to the loose hub nut that we've already spoke about.
Anyway, thanks again and I'll let you know the results when it all comes back together.
Eddie V