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Replacing Fork seals for the first time

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mitch from Everett Wa.
  • Start date Start date
M

Mitch from Everett Wa.

Guest
I need ome help. I am following the Clymer that I bought. Since thi is the firsst time I hav done this, things have probably gone a little further than I expected them to.
While trying to insert the upper tube into the lower tube and pur the Damper Rod Asy Nut I pushed the adjusting rod up into the damper rod. So now I am trying to remove the Damper Rod assy and the instructions tell me to remove the O'Ring then rmove the Oil Lock Piece....

well it doesn't want to come off and the instructions don't tell me how to. Is there secret? I don't want to scuff or damage it and it doesn't want to slide, screw or twist of.

Also, the instructions also tell me to remove and replace the "DU" Ring. If it looks in good shape do I still need to replace it with new one?

Thanks in advance!!
 
First of all ... give us a hint what bike you are talking about. :-k

Your ARE talking about a bike, aren't you? :confused:

.
 
Steve said:
First of all ... give us a hint what bike you are talking about. :-k

Your ARE talking about a bike, aren't you? :confused:

.
Click to expand...

STEVE - You're so SARCASTIC and to a NEWBY as well !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Fork seals- Type of Bike

Fork seals- Type of Bike

I guess I should have included that info too. :o

1981 GS1100E
 
Mitch from Everett Wa. said:
I need ome help. I am following the Clymer that I bought. Since thi is the firsst time I hav done this, things have probably gone a little further than I expected them to.
While trying to insert the upper tube into the lower tube and pur the Damper Rod Asy Nut I pushed the adjusting rod up into the damper rod. So now I am trying to remove the Damper Rod assy and the instructions tell me to remove the O'Ring then rmove the Oil Lock Piece....

well it doesn't want to come off and the instructions don't tell me how to. Is there secret? I don't want to scuff or damage it and it doesn't want to slide, screw or twist of.

Also, the instructions also tell me to remove and replace the "DU" Ring. If it looks in good shape do I still need to replace it with new one?

Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...

Don't mind Steve, he probably didn't take his meds this morning:D!

Read this: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/fork_seal_replacement_by_matchless.pdf

If you have further questions, fire away!

I just removed four fork seals. I mostly followed the tutorial, but rather than yanking them out with a vice grips, I used a $10 seal puller from an auto parts store.

Rick
 
Fork Seals 1981 GS1100E

Fork Seals 1981 GS1100E

I appreciate the attachment. I printed and read through it. It appears that these instructions are for a GS1000G.
The tapered Oil Lock Piece is located differently for my GS1100E. I also remove the Damper Rod assy differently. Its not an Allen Screw, its a 22mm or 24mm Nut (can't remember exactly).

Should I still have a "T-Bar type of set up to to keep it from spinning though when I finally do get it all together?
 
Mitch from Everett Wa. said:
I appreciate the attachment. I printed and read through it. It appears that these instructions are for a GS1000G.
The tapered Oil Lock Piece is located differently for my GS1100E. I also remove the Damper Rod assy differently. Its not an Allen Screw, its a 22mm or 24mm Nut (can't remember exactly).

Should I still have a "T-Bar type of set up to to keep it from spinning though when I finally do get it all together?
Click to expand...

When you say "T" bar, are you refering to the bar that goes inside the inner fork to keep it from spinning? Many folks just use 24" of 1/2" threaded rod with two nuts (one to lock) at the bottom (goes into the fork) and two at the top to hold on to.

Rick
 
ryonker said:
When you say "T" bar, are you refering to the bar that goes inside the inner fork to keep it from spinning? Many folks just use 24" of 1/2" threaded rod with two nuts (one to lock) at the bottom (goes into the fork) and two at the top to hold on to.

Rick
Click to expand...

Perhaps this will help?
ryonker said:
Like this:

IMG_2027.jpg
Click to expand...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=144719&page=2
 
Awww now Rick!! You promised that I would get to help you with the forks!

:)
Terry
WBL, MN
 
tlepac said:
Awww now Rick!! You promised that I would get to help you with the forks!

:)
Terry
WBL, MN
Click to expand...

Actually, they are just torn apart. Haven't put them back together with seals and stuff.

I will call you when I get back from vacation. I got the itch one night and just started taking them apart:D.

Rick
 
Tapered Oil Lock Piece

Tapered Oil Lock Piece

I appreciate everyone's input a lot. Especially the T-Bar fix that is something I can afford.
But I still have the question for how to remove the Oil Lock Piece. The instructions that Rick was kind enough to post were for a 1981 GS1000G. I have a 1981 GS1100E and it doesn't have an Allen Bolt at the bottom of the lower tube. It has a large Nut.
I accidentally pushed the Adjusting screww out of the Damper Rodd assy when trying to re-install the Nut to the Damper Rod assy. Now it looks like I need to remove the Damper Rod assy out of the upper tube but the Clymers I am using says I need to remove the Tapered Oil Lock Piece first, but doesn't tell me how to do it. You can tell it's made of a soft aluminum and probably damages easily. When I looked up a new part on Bike Bandit the Oil Lock Piece is now discontinued.

Any ideas?
 
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