• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Replacing intake boots tomorrow - last minute tips?

  • Thread starter Thread starter growler
  • Start date Start date
G

growler

Guest
Any handy advice besides what is in the tutorials?

I'm armed with an impact screwdriver, JIS screwdrivers, heat gun, left-handed drill bits, and a cutoff wheel. Hopefully I can get these suckers off and replaced.
 
Get the two outer boots off first. I've found that getting to the bottom inside boot screws can be a little bit of a PITA. No room to swing an impact wrench. If you can get one of the top screws out it helps to pivot the boot counter clockwise around the other bolt to loosen it. You can use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to get the boot to rotate. Hope this makes sense.

When installing the new boot O-rings I use a small amount of grease to keep them in the groove.

Replace the boot screws with hex head cap screws so they're easier to remove the next time.

Make sure you use some anti-seize lubricant on the screws when reinstalling them.

A little lubricant on the boot openings helps to get the carbs back in. I also use a ratcheting tie down strap wrapped around the engine and carbs to help get the carbs seated.
 
The astroglide comment isn't far off the mark. I (very lightly) spray some silicone on the inner lip of the boots to get the carbs to go back in easily.

Sounds like you're well-prepared, so it should go fine. The hardest part is disconnecting and then reconnecting the choke and throttle cables. Although if you're not taking the carbs to the bench, that could be optional.
 
Small genuine vice-grip end on will lock on to those screw heads and break them free
 
I used my impact driver with a very fine &, tight fitting cross point tip. A little PB blaster helped to free up those well aged screws & nuts too. I like the astroglide idea too!
 
I used my electric impact and they came right of no issue.
 
As mentioned the 2 very inner can might be problematic. Do them last if need be. What I did on my GS1000 because they just wouldn't come loose was to remove the rear wheel and inner rear fender. On my old Vessel impact I can put a 1/2" extension on it which allowed me room to swing a hamner.
 
Once you get the outer screws out (impact driver or vice grips) you can try to spin the boot counter clockwise to crack the inner screw loose. If the boot just spins and you don't have access to the screw, a sharp chisel on the outside edge of the screw can be used to get it cracked loose.
 
Yes, spinning the inner boots will often be required, as they are the most problematic. i've had to notch them before with a dremel and/or use vice-grips:



But heat focused with a torch, and my favorite home made penetrant - 50/50 mix of quality acetone and ATF will loosen them up.

Do replace these when you have them off:



And these:

 
Note that most (all?) hand impact wrenches have ends that can be pulled off, revealing a square drive. I have had 1/2" drive and 3/8" drive, my current one is 3/8". Separate the wrench, add about 18" of extension, the business end of the impact tool will be above the battery box, where you can reach it with a hammer.

When you put the stainless bolts in, use COPPER anti-sieze.

.
 
Repair complete. The PO had tried to use sealant to fix leaks instead of just replacing the flat-as-a-pancake o-rings.

They came off nicely with some heat and a few whacks of the impact. Thanks for the tips. Used them all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top