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Replacing right main oil seal - Success Story

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I we did this on an 8 valve GS1000 motor, but it will definitely work on all roller bearing motors and probably the journal types too.

First we loosened all the 10mm crankcase bolts in the immediate vicinity. Figure 2 bolts back. Also loosened the outer two 12mm bolts for the crank.

Then we drilled a small hole on the highest part of the metal on the seal, close to the sealing surface. Figure 1/8" to 3/16". We were careful not to go too far because at this point we didn't know what was behind it. Fortunately there's actually a large metal surface at this point so it would've been pretty hard to damage anything.

DSC00739.jpg


Thread a screw into it, grab onto it with a claw hammer, and presto!!

DSC00740.jpg


The trick I think is to drill on the high surface where you are least likely to hit anything.
 
When I did this, I pressed in the new seal with a large socket, using a bolt threaded into the crank, with a nut and washer. I coated the outer surface of the seal with case sealer. No problems in many thousands of miles.

And yes, this seal looks like it goes in backwards. Look for a tiny arrow denoting the correct direction of rotation.
 
part number

part number

this is something I need to do , for what model bike is this and what was the seal part number ............thanks dennis
 
bigdee said:
this is something I need to do , for what model bike is this and what was the seal part number ............thanks dennis
Click to expand...

I'm sure lots of GS models use the same right-hand crank seal, but you should look up the part number for your specific bike and order a new OEM seal from your favorite source for Suzuki parts.

Here's a good one:
http://partshark.com


Also, you might wish to reveal what sort of bike you have, and approximately where you are on this big blue marble floating through space.
 
Considering what fork seals look like, that seal does look inside out

;)
 
Don-lo said:
Considering what fork seals look like, that seal does look inside out

;)
Click to expand...

Yep. That probably explains why I installed mine backwards when I built my GS850's engine.

To be fair, it somehow worked fine for at least 12,000 miles before it started leaking.

As soon as I pulled the cover and the ignition rotor, I knew exactly how I screwed it up -- the seal looked "normal", and it's supposed to look backwards.

DOH!

The new one has been in there for 10,000 miles or so, and is working great! :)
 
Not sure how much diff the 8V is to the 16V 1100E, but this seal glides in much easier if you freeze it. Even hough it is made of rubber the inside is steel so it really helps avoid cutting the seal.
 
posplayr said:
Not sure how much diff the 8V is to the 16V 1100E, but this seal glides in much easier if you freeze it. Even hough it is made of rubber the inside is steel so it really helps avoid cutting the seal.
Click to expand...
Jim, I put mine in backwards.
Kris split the cases to put it back in backwards.
I'm glad I bought two.
geez
 
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