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Replacing Spark Plug wires and boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter lordcannon88
  • Start date Start date
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lordcannon88

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Well I was messing around with my 82 GS1100Gl the other day and touched the spark plug boot. I got a decent shock from this. I decided its time I replace my plug wires and boots and do the coil relay mod just for good measure. My question is this: Is there any sort of kit out there that has the wire and boots in one for an easy swap or do I need to buy the wire and boots separately? A link to parts I need to buy would be amazing! Thanks in advance.
 
First of all do a forum search on this topic. There is more to changing those parts than you might think. Second, Z1 Enterprises sells the stuff you will need if you still choose to do the job after reading what's involved.
 
Could be you just need to cut off the end of the wire and reconnect it, or maybe replace the spark plug caps. Easy stuff if that's all it needs.
 
All else fails, NAPA sells plug wire by the foot. I think I spent about $8 for about 10 foot of the stuff when I did my plug wire swap.
 
three hours of research later it seems like i have three options. correct me if im wrong

1. dynatek green coils and new wires and boots

2. cut the plug wire off near the coil and use some sort of splicing device to attach new wires from there, and then use new plug boots.

3. pull out ALL of old wire from coil and attach it back to coil, epoxy/glue new wire in place.

I am leaning toward option two at the moment. this brings me to my next question: Which sets of wire and plug boots to use? I saw several mentions of resistors and such regarding the wire and boots.

I still need a little more guidance.
 
The stock wires are core copper with resistor caps (my recommendation). You can also run supressor wire (resistor) and non resistor caps (automotive/Dynatek standard).

Easy for me to say but I'd dig the wire out of the coil with a pick instead of splicing but then I've never done it so the choice is yours.
 
three hours of research later it seems like i have three options. correct me if im wrong

1. dynatek green coils and new wires and boots

2. cut the plug wire off near the coil and use some sort of splicing device to attach new wires from there, and then use new plug boots.

3. pull out ALL of old wire from coil and attach it back to coil, epoxy/glue new wire in place.

I am leaning toward option two at the moment. this brings me to my next question: Which sets of wire and plug boots to use? I saw several mentions of resistors and such regarding the wire and boots.

I still need a little more guidance.

You really can't go wrong with new coils... but... I just did the wire swap myself.

I took a razor scraper and got under the lip of the epoxy on the top of the coils and broke it up a bit, then used a pick to break it out of the cavity. 3 of the wires pretty much just came right out. The 4thway way in there, and I had to use a pick with a bent end and just keep working at it, but I eventually got the wire all out and clean.

My boots tested out OK, and they just screw onto the end of the wire.

I bought some coil wire from NAPA, cut it into lengths, put the original cylinder identifiers back on the wire, and then coated near one end with 5 minute epoxy and shoved it down into each coil cavity. Screwed on the boots, tested the resistance, and they both matched up well. Worked like a champ.

Honestly, I didn't see a difference, but I was chasing an idea for a high RPM misfire I had, so... Cost me a few bucks for the epoxy, and less than $10 for the wires, so I can't complain.
 
You really can't go wrong with new coils... but... I just did the wire swap myself.

I took a razor scraper and got under the lip of the epoxy on the top of the coils and broke it up a bit, then used a pick to break it out of the cavity. 3 of the wires pretty much just came right out. The 4thway way in there, and I had to use a pick with a bent end and just keep working at it, but I eventually got the wire all out and clean.

My boots tested out OK, and they just screw onto the end of the wire.

I bought some coil wire from NAPA, cut it into lengths, put the original cylinder identifiers back on the wire, and then coated near one end with 5 minute epoxy and shoved it down into each coil cavity. Screwed on the boots, tested the resistance, and they both matched up well. Worked like a champ.

Honestly, I didn't see a difference, but I was chasing an idea for a high RPM misfire I had, so... Cost me a few bucks for the epoxy, and less than $10 for the wires, so I can't complain.


Right O...thanks for the detailed explanation. Im pretty sure this and a valve job will fix my starting problems...not to mention stop me from getting shocked every time i touch the boots..ha.
 
Hi,

I found this in the "Electrical Odds and Ends" section of some guy's website:

Spark Plug Cap Replacements
thanks to Ms. SqDancerLynn1

[For] replacing the stock caps [use] 2 each - NGK XB05F and VB05F.

Cut off a small slice (1/4 inch) of the end of the plug wire and screw in the new plug caps. This makes a good connection with fresh (uncorroded) wire.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

I found this in the "Electrical Odds and Ends" section of some guy's website:

Man, you know who this guy is? He sure seems to have a lot of stuff on his website... almost like it was some sort of GS resource. Heck, if I knew the guy, I would be looking to buy him a cold beverage of his choosing for all the help he's given me so far ;)

Hehehe..
 
Man, you know who this guy is? He sure seems to have a lot of stuff on his website... almost like it was some sort of GS resource. Heck, if I knew the guy, I would be looking to buy him a cold beverage of his choosing for all the help he's given me so far ;)

Hehehe..

Well i havent met the man in person but i am quite familiar with his works (Basscliff's Gs page) and his excellent tutorials on gs repair and rectification. I think he needs a medal.
 
If I may speak for him.
HT= high tension. yes, he is referring to the spark plug wires.
 
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