Replacing Starter/Clutch set

[JRiveraS]

After having problems to start my bike sometimes, I opened the L/side cover to see if the new stator had come loose or if there was any other problem.
Well, the stator is fine but the starter/clutch set, at least the smaller plate (heck if I know the name it appears only as the Clutch set) has a metal cover that one of the prones busted out. I just found two little pieces under the stator and the plate was busted.
I have to replace the entire part but have no idea where to start.
The manual (Clymer and Service) mention that I need a special tool to remove the rotor, also someone here told me that a Flywheel puller was needed.
Who has done this? and How do I do it?

 

[Guyver]

I've done it and...

I've done it and...

I didn't need a puller; however, I can see where you might if the entire unit is stuck on pretty good. Just undo the nut; using a screwdriver to wedge in and lock the gears from turning if needed. If the starter clutch is stuck on try a rubber faced mallet, gently, to loosen it up. Pay attention to the way things come off and put them back the same way using some red engine assembly lube on the roller bearings and rollers in the assembly. If you're mechanical it's pretty straight forward stuff. Just make sure you torque that retaining nut down properly or it could spin loose and cause all kinds of havoc...trust me. ~Gene

 

[argonsagas]

The rotor and flywheel are different names for the same part.


You may be able to do without one, but I would very strongly recommend you use the puller to avoid damage to the rotor.

On mine the retaining nut on the shaft was easy, but the rotor was VERY tight and I could not remove it without the puller.

IT fits against a taper so, once it moves, it is free.

The clutch components area easy to do once you get past the rotor. DO use blue loctite on their bolts when re-assembling.

 

[JRiveraS]

This is the kind of response I was looking for, thanks both of you!
Now, how do I lock the gear?
Jaime

 

[Dink]

With the Rotor removal tool you do not need to lock the gear.
It can be done by inserting a large flat bladed screwdriver to lock travel in the direction of travel, BUT you do run the risk of stressing or even breaking a tooth.

Dink

 

[JRiveraS]

Thanks, I already ordered the parts, now I am looking for the puller, next week I'll do the job.
Jaime

 

[Hap Call]

This is the kind of response I was looking for, thanks both of you!
Now, how do I lock the gear?
Jaime

No need to ever lock the gear. If you want to keep the engine from turning while you loosen the nut holding the flywheel/rotor assembly, just stick a thick piece of wood (like a 2" x2") through the rear wheel and turn the wheel until the wood contacts the swing arm and prevents the wheel from turning. Put the bike in gear, then loosen the nut (it may be a tough nut to crack). Then use the puller to remove the flywheel/rotor-starter clutch assembly.

I have two pullers that fit the big GS motors. One is for the 16 Valve 1100 and the other is for the 8 valve 1000. I think the one for the 8 valve should work. If you just PM me you address I'll send it to you if you promise to send it back so others can use it.

Hap

 

[JRiveraS]

Thanks, that was very nice of you to offer.
I decided to buy the puller at Z1 Enterprises, they were the only ones that made a clear connection to my GS1100G
I guess since there in no one working these bikes in Orlando (at least at a decent price) I have to buy all the tools now.
My bike had been the best purchase I made ever and plan to continue learning more about them.
Once I get rid of the Flywheel problem, I am going to continue with other issues. Lets see what happens!
Jaime