The Bathurst method of changing a chain.
Order the new chain and ask the store to break the chain with their chain breaking tool. They will remove the pin from one side plate only.
Remove anything in the way, such as fuel tank etc.
Remove the tensioner.
Remove the timing cover, probably bottom right of motor.
Remove cam cover.
Remove cam shells. They should be marked A/B/C/D so you can fit them back in the right places.
Remove cams. Take note of how they sit in the head so you can put them back correctly. Note that the cams have arrows on the right side of the sprockets, two arrows for the exhaust and one for the inlet.
Support the cam chain with some wire so it doesn't fall into the case.
Pull the chain towards the front so you can work on it.
Cover the motor with a cloth.
Get a dremel style tool and grind off one of the link pins. Do not get stuff in the motor. Pull the pin enough the break the chain.
Link the new chain into the old one.
Pull the new chain through carefully. You need to turn the large nut in under timing cover to assist. The bike is in neutral, isn't it?
When you have the new chain fully through, rejoin the link. You do this by getting some multigrips, setting up the side plates in line with the pin, closing the multigrips over the pin, and squeezing it into place. It takes some effort.
When the pin is in place it will be flush with the side plate. You need to push it a little further to match the others. Do this by putting a small nut or a thick washer over the pin and squeezing the grips on it, pushing the pin into the nut or washer.
The link is now very tight. Loosen it by gripping the link and the adjoining link with two pairs of pliers, and working the joint until it loosens. When using a chain breaker to do this it is normal to push the pin slightly too far, then to bring it back to normal, and the pin is magically loose like new.
You now have the chain done.
Put the motor, cylinder 1, on TDC. There is mark on the timing plate, but you can also check it by removing the plugs and sitting a screwdriver carefully on the piston and seeing when it is fully at the top.
Replace the exhaust cam under the chain with one arrow pointing to the gasket surface of the head and the other arrow pointing upwards.
As you do this, pull the chain tight on the exhaust side of the motor.
You need to check how many link pins between the top exhaust arrow and the inlet arrow. Count out the links and put the inlet cam correctly into place.
Replace the cam shells. Tighten the bolts only to the set amount, they are easy to strip.
Now check that you have the motor still on TDC, and that the exhaust arrow is pointing to the gasket surface properly, and that you have the right number of pins to the inlet sprocket.
Fit the tensioner. Don't rotate the motor without the tensioner.
Rotate the motor with a spanner a few times and check the arrows again.
Now do it again.
Especially check the gasket surface arrow against TDC. It is easy for the chain to be one link out. Sometimes it looks OK when you assemble it, but as the cam shells are bolted down the cam sits lower and the arrow no longer lines up.
If you need to adjust it, remove the cam shells and tensioner so you can move the chain over the sprockets.
Check the shims while you have the top off.
Assemble the cam cover, fuel tank, timing cover etc.
Ride away.
Have fun,
Kim