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ricks stator is junk

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs850cafe
  • Start date Start date
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gs850cafe

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bought mine not even 6 months ago....today it fried...anyone else have issues with ricks stuff? ill be replacing my ricks rr too
 
yea just get a hold of them ,I believe that they will replace it.
 
Pics? Btw replace your r/r with a Compufire and never worry about charging issues again. I was burning up stators every 1,000 miles and when I took a look at my ricks stator it was like brand new still.
 
my stator tested good...ive tried 2 r/r one for sure being good..just wont go past 12.8v idle or very low 13's at a high rev...but according to basscliff a stator can pass those 3 tests an still be defective

how long does it take them to test an ship back...this is my only vehicle

will a 81 gs 1000 stator work in my 81 850? my freind has a bike thats being built...if so i can use it for a while
 
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Did it ever do more than that?

Did you remove the redundant "headlight" cable (the one that turns off one leg of the stator? - it's still there even though you don't have a switch.)

Are all your connections in good shape?

Do you have a really good ground at the RR including one going back to the battery direct?

Check to make sure the Stator wires aren't chafed somewhere & grounding to the case...
 
salty_monk said:
Did it ever do more than that?

Did you remove the redundant "headlight" cable (the one that turns off one leg of the stator? - it's still there even though you don't have a switch.)

Are all your connections in good shape?

Do you have a really good ground at the RR including one going back to the battery direct?

Check to make sure the Stator wires aren't chafed somewhere & grounding to the case...
Click to expand...


yep its all wired right and good connections...only place i didnt look was under the starter cover...
 
and for the record...
i hate thread titles like...ricks/dynajet/ and so on is junk.
very misleading and more times than not...the statement is wrong.
 
Did you remove the redundant headlight cable? I had a couple of bike display similar (550 & a 1000G). One was bad ground to the RR, one was just that the redundant wire was putting in too much resistance to that stator leg.

I also had it on a 750 & that one was 1 dead stator leg.

How old is your battery?

I agree the title of this is unfortunate & probably not fair as Rick's will replace it if it's bad I'm sure..... They appear to be one of the better aftermarket stator sources available if you review all the comments here.

By the way - if you do a lot of 5K+ rev range work on the freeway etc you might benefit from a Series regulator. The guys that commute every day on the freeway (5k rpm) seem to go through stators more regularly than most & Posplayr posted a reason for this.... Lots of info on here.
 
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salty_monk said:
Did you remove the redundant headlight cable? I had a couple of bike display similar (550 & a 1000G). One was bad ground to the RR, one was just that the redundant wire was putting in too much resistance to that stator leg.

I also had it on a 750 & that one was 1 dead stator leg.

How old is your battery?

I agree the title of this is unfortunate & probably not fair as Rick's will replace it if it's bad I'm sure..... They appear to be one of the better aftermarket stator sources available if you review all the comments here.

By the way - if you do a lot of 5K+ rev range work on the freeway etc you might benefit from a Series regulator. The guys that commute every day on the freeway (5k rpm) seem to go through stators more regularly than most & Posplayr posted a reason for this.... Lots of info on here.
Click to expand...


yes i do run 5-6k down the highway...it just kinda ****ed me off a stator didnt last not even 8000 miles...im sending both my r/r and stator to them tommorow

is there anyway i can make the 1000 stator work on mine till i can get mine back?
 
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Did you do a no load AC voltage stator test after disconnecting the stator from the harness, and if so what were the results on each leg?

Did you plug the stator into the factory wire harness or rewire the bike to route the stator wires directly into the R/R (Salty_Monk's question)?

Did you add a ground for the R/R that goes directly to the battery or solid frame ground point?

How does power get from the R/R back to the battery? Did you run the R/R red power output wire into the factory harness or direct to the battery?
 
Nessism said:
Did you do a no load AC voltage stator test after disconnecting the stator from the harness, and if so what were the results on each leg?

Did you plug the stator into the factory wire harness or rewire the bike to route the stator wires directly into the R/R (Salty_Monk's question)?

Did you add a ground for the R/R that goes directly to the battery or solid frame ground point?

How does power get from the R/R back to the battery? Did you run the R/R red power output wire into the factory harness or direct to the battery?
Click to expand...

yes at 4k rpm all 3 wires had 60v AC(roughly give or take a few)...i had a hard time keeping steady rev an testing it at the same time.

the 3 stator wires go directly to the r/r, in which the r/r positive goes to the battery with a inline fuse, and the ground goes directly to the battery.

battery is brand new ( about 9 hours old)...

also another question...can i run the bike only on the battery...just to get to the store and such...will it hurt the rotor for the stator or anything?
 
low voltage can hurt electronics... like all the rest of the little modules and things on the bike.

Brian
 
You can run on the battery no problem. With a fully charged battery you should be able to get though a good portion of a full tank of gas.

60 V AC is not very good. I agree, sounds like a bum stator.
 
Nessism said:
You can run on the battery no problem. With a fully charged battery you should be able to get though a good portion of a full tank of gas.

60 V AC is not very good. I agree, sounds like a bum stator.
Click to expand...

ah...ive done alot of highway travel...including a 250 or so mile round trip of alot of 6-6.5k rpm for 2 hours at a time...

really a full tank of gas lol....i have an led brake light...should i leave the headlight connected? i have foglights too...should i run just them only?

thanks for the help
 
The less power you use the longer it will last if you're going to run it total loss.

Obviously it's safer with full lighting though..

:)
 
"Thank you officer, I was not aware that my headlight was burned out. I'll replace it right away." Seriously.
 
I had an aftermarket stator on one bike that put out 60v AC on all three legs & it worked fine.... (1000G).

Plus you are at 4k rpm not 5k rpm so it will be a bit lower (the 5k rpm figure is usually about 70-75v).

I put about 15k miles on it with that stator & who knows when it was changed out...

I would be more worried if one leg was a lot different to the other two.
 
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