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Ring job Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dizzixx
  • Start date Start date
I would like to understand.

Could you explain how too much fuel would cause the compression to read low?

I have honestly never gone through a carb before I have always found the task a little daunting. I have the service manual though so I might as well. Any pointers?
 
Dizzixx said:
I would like to understand.

Could you explain how too much fuel would cause the compression to read low?

I have honestly never gone through a carb before I have always found the task a little daunting. I have the service manual though so I might as well. Any pointers?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure exactly how it happens, I think washes all of the oil out of the rings and cylinder walls, so it's not getting the lubrication it needs. Also the oil isn't there to help seal things up( remember the wet compression test to check for bad rings?) I have a GS 1000 sitting here, it had a manufacturing plug in the carburetor fall out, so there is a 1/4 inch hole between the float bowl and the venturi. Needless to say, instantly super rich, with huge clouds of smoke. The owner thought it "blew a ring" so sold it to me for a song. The compression was low on that cylinder, can't remember exactly, something around 60 or so. I put a good rack of carbs on it, now it runs fine, I rode it around a little, very smooth and nice. The compression still reads a little low, but within limits. It is waiting it's turn to be restored, haven't ridden it a lot of miles to find out, but the compression is likely to come back up with time and mileage.

Everything you need to know to fix up the carburetors is on Cliff's site someplace.
 
I hope you get this sorted but if you did pull the bolts on the head you are in it at least for the cost of new suzuki OEM gaskets so you no point turning back as you will just leak oil all over if done.

When it comes to troubleshooting you should focus on when it came up and what you changed, the folks here tried to save you frustration and focus on that. However whats done is done so you have to replace the gaskets and will need to get to the rings to do that so you can get the visual check and see if that is your issue.
 
Why do I have to replace all the gaskets? Does it make it difficult to torque it to spec. OR is it that they have been permanently deformed by the compression and so torquing them to spec won't be sufficient to prevent leakage?

They gaskets look good. If I measure them with a multimeter can I verify that they are usable?

I have it apart but I dont know what you mean by visual check. Like I said the cylinder walls seem fine. Would pictures help? Tell what to take pictures of and I will.
 
ok im not trying to b mean here but ...... you are afraid to clean and reasimble a rack of carbs (somthing that the only thing you have to measure and adj is the float height) but taking apart a overhead cam engine and removing the jug (somthing that when done corectly takes lots of detailed mesurments and detailed notes) and yet it seems like you have no idea what you are looking for that would signify a problem. many people on this board have tryed to tell you what to look for and how to do the test and yet you eather havent done them or havent posted the results. (and as for the gaskets and not using the old ones, yes it has somthing to do with them being deformed by compression and torquing, also the tool used for measuring them is a micromiter (sp)) sorry for all the miss spelled words but im sleep deprived and dont have the energy or time to check them due to my 1 week old son.... like i said im really not trying to come across like an ass....... but your making it realy hard to help you. there is a ton of info on this board and a ton of exp techs who know what they are doing with these old bikes.... we are willing to help but we can only help if you listen (its hard enough diagnosing a problem over the internet in the first place)
 
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