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The carbs on your bike were not painted originally. Are you going for a custom look, sort of like the later year GS1100E carbs painted black?
Oh, and those pins can be removed. I've done it on a number of sets of GS carbs. Just make sure your punch is the proper diameter and support the throttle shaft with a socket or similar so you have something to hold the shaft steady.
Oh, and those pins can be removed. I've done it on a number of sets of GS carbs. Just make sure your punch is the proper diameter and support the throttle shaft with a socket or similar so you have something to hold the shaft steady.
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I’m the original owner of this 1980L and yes the carbs were not originally painted. I had the carbs off but still ganged together and dropped in the local bike shop last year and he offered to run them through his ultrasound cleaner for free...the carbs are a ugly tarnished look now so time to paint.
I plan on using using SEM black for the color coat on the carbs and then Spraymax 2k clear.
I’m using the correct roll pin punch but will try supporting under it and tap a little harder
I plan on using using SEM black for the color coat on the carbs and then Spraymax 2k clear.
I’m using the correct roll pin punch but will try supporting under it and tap a little harder
Steve
GS Whisperer
I just left it all together when I painted mine.
There is usually enough other bling to draw your eye away from a painted spring. :-\\\
Just to clear things up a bit, only the carb body is "together" when it gets painted. Then I add the "choke" (which is polished), throttle shaft covers (which are polished), fuel transfer tubes (which are polished), caps (yep, polished) and bowls (only the outer faces are polished).
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There is usually enough other bling to draw your eye away from a painted spring. :-\\\
Just to clear things up a bit, only the carb body is "together" when it gets painted. Then I add the "choke" (which is polished), throttle shaft covers (which are polished), fuel transfer tubes (which are polished), caps (yep, polished) and bowls (only the outer faces are polished).
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I supported the throttle shaft with a socket and the pin came right out and thanks for the tip Ed.
Do I really need to remove all the carb jets, needles, screws and inspect or can I leave some of them in place? My GS was running OK when I started working on it. I do plan on replacing all O rings and fuel transfer T's and will be following the Carb rebuild tutorial.
Do I really need to remove all the carb jets, needles, screws and inspect or can I leave some of them in place? My GS was running OK when I started working on it. I do plan on replacing all O rings and fuel transfer T's and will be following the Carb rebuild tutorial.
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Well that went a lot easier than expected and I got all the needles/jets/etc removed from one carb. Do I need to remove the throttle valve (butterfly) and shaft to replace any orings on the shaft? The throttle valves screws are very tight and I am assuming that you remove these valves and the shaft slides out but please correct me if I am wrong?
EDIT: Used search feature and found several threads that recommend not removing throttle valves and existing O rings can be left in place.
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EDIT: Used search feature and found several threads that recommend not removing throttle valves and existing O rings can be left in place.
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The throttle shaft seals seem to survive the carb dipping process so it's recommended to leave them be. They can be removed and replaced, but once you take the throttle butterfly screws loose you have to be very careful to stake them in place upon replacement so they don't loosen up and fall out later.
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Got the carbs dismanteled and the tutorial instructions are easy to follow and are just about perfectly worded so even a nob like me can follow. I need to order the oring kit and pick up a can of dip and should I dip and then partially reassemble carbs jets/screws before paint?
Wasn't 100% sure on the colors for carbs so tried a few combinations using a light coat on a set of carbs and decided to go with SEM Aotomotive Basecoat Black for the carb bodies and SEM Automotive Basecoat Polished Gray Metallic for the tops, bottoms, and clamps. I plan on using Spraymax 2k epoxy primer to prime and then top off the colorcoat with Spraymax 2k Clear Glamour. This is the same combo I used on the tank and side covers and it turned out pretty good....there is no clearcoat on the mockup below and after that is applied the carbs should stand out better.
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Wasn't 100% sure on the colors for carbs so tried a few combinations using a light coat on a set of carbs and decided to go with SEM Aotomotive Basecoat Black for the carb bodies and SEM Automotive Basecoat Polished Gray Metallic for the tops, bottoms, and clamps. I plan on using Spraymax 2k epoxy primer to prime and then top off the colorcoat with Spraymax 2k Clear Glamour. This is the same combo I used on the tank and side covers and it turned out pretty good....there is no clearcoat on the mockup below and after that is applied the carbs should stand out better.
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Decided to semi reassemble gang of carbs (with airbox boot off) and re-install before painting and installing orings/screws/rest of tops bottoms. I'm going to connect choke/throttle cable also to make sure I have the cables ran in the right location. Once I have this install figured out I'll probably remove the carbs, install airbox, and try installing carbs again...I will replace boots on final install....hopefully I'll remember most of this so the install when painted will go smoothly.
I anticipate that the install of carbs with airbox in place will be a huge PIA so any tricks/shortcuts are greatly appreciated.
Steve....the carb photo is just what I needed and thanks for adding that in the other thread
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I anticipate that the install of carbs with airbox in place will be a huge PIA so any tricks/shortcuts are greatly appreciated.
Steve....the carb photo is just what I needed and thanks for adding that in the other thread
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