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rotate the engine less1 shim?

Don't do it. Pop a coin in there that is the same size and you can get away with it - carefully (turn by hand, not the starter).
 
Lol, thanks..
I measured clearances agIn and recorded shim sizes here is what i got..
(Cyl) measurement/shim

Intake:
(1) 0.002/2.70
(2) 0.002/2.70
(3) 0.0015/2.75
(4) 0.0025/2.65

Exhaust
(1) tight/2.75 and kinda blue in the center (will post pic)
(2) 0.0015/2.75
(3) tight/2.65
(4) 0.0015/2.65
 
mvalenti said:
Lol, thanks..
I measured clearances agIn and recorded shim sizes here is what i got..
(Cyl) measurement/shim

Intake:
(1) 0.002/2.70
(2) 0.002/2.70
(3) 0.0015/2.75
(4) 0.0025/2.65

Exhaust
(1) tight/2.75 and kinda blue in the center (will post pic)
(2) 0.0015/2.75
(3) tight/2.65
(4) 0.0015/2.65
Click to expand...

Are those clearances in mm? If so, you have too many zeroes.

Adjusting for that, you are way tight. You also don't have many swaps at hand to adjust them.

Also, did you measure the shims with a caliper/micrometer? If you are working from the printed thickness, you should measure the shims yourself. The shims often don't match their nominal thickness.

You might be able to swap some of the 2.65 shims into the 2.70 and 2.75 buckets to open up those clearances, but you need at least three more shims for the job.
 
Just another reason I like the 16V motors with the screw adjusters. Those shims are a pain in the @zz.

(The upside is you don't have to pull the cams like on my Bus :))
 
I used a feeler Gage to measure gap, in inches. .00015, .002,.0025,.003 etc.. I have a good micrometer I can use to measure the shims. I took them at face value. Also I thought (per the gs manual) 0.001-0.003 was the target clearance, no? See the bluing on the shim? Excessive heat?

-mark
 
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Hmmm, from what I can tell from the bluing on the shim it doesn't look like heat bluing. Heat bluing will have different shades associated with it not one color you have in the pic.
 
mvalenti said:
I used a feeler Gage to measure gap, in inches. .00015, .002,.0025,.003 etc.. I have a good micrometer I can use to measure the shims. I took them at face value. Also I thought (per the gs manual) 0.001-0.003 was the target clearance, no? See the bluing on the shim? Excessive heat?

-mark
Click to expand...

My GS750 manual has the clearances in metric (0.03mm - 0.08mm). Dunno what they translate to in SAE.

OK - the Interwebs tell me that the clearance range is 0.001181 to 0.003149. Of course, you'll need to do even more math to figure out what shims you need . . .
 
Thanks guys on the bluing,scared me a bit.. cinders, are those longish numbers inches?
.001-.003 in = .0245mm-.0762mm. Got some figuring to do from here....
 
MisterCinders said:
Of course, you'll need to do even more math to figure out what shims you need . . .
Click to expand...
No, he doesn't. Read my sig.
down2.gif


.
 
No, but neither does any other method, except for putting in a much smaller shim and measuring all the extra clearance. :D

For that reason, many of us that work on several bikes or even get a "new" one occasionally, will have a "checking" shim that is several sizes smaller.

Most of the bikes left the factory with shims in the 2.70 to 2.85 range, so having a 2.50 on hand would work.
I happen to also have a 2.40, which came in handy because I recently did a valve adjustment on a bike that needed 2.45 shims.

My spreadsheet will handle up to six shim sizes of extra clearance, but since the increment in shim sizes is larger than the minimum clearance, there is no way to tell how "negative" that clearance might be.
icon_shrug.gif


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Steve's spreadsheet is awesome! I used it today, as a matter of fact.

I just measured my clearances this morning. Like you, on a couple i couldn't get my .004 mm gauge to fit in all the way through.

Since I don't have any shims smaller than what I have in there now (2.60), I ordered 2.55 and 2.50 from Z1 - I figure an extra six bucks is just insurance in case I need to go smaller than what I'm guessing.

Btw - the first time I did this valve adjustment on my bike a couple of years ago, I rotated the lobe with a shim out -- didn't know any better and hadn't read enough of the forum - Anyway, it was scary as heck and I spent a while making sure the metal shavings were all cleaned out. Won't do that again!
 
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When I did my shims for the first time, I had to buy a 2.15 shim and start from there on some of my valves. I ended up going through my valves three times the first time around to get them into spec. I started with the 2.15, measured, replaced with the "correct" shim, remeasured, and adjusted from there.
 
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