Rotor Interchange for 1983 GS1100E

[garicao]

Hi...anyone know what other GS years/models use the same rotor and starter motor clutch as the '83 GS1100E? Have one for sale?

And, how does one get the rotor off? I got the bolt at the crankshaft end out easily enough, but then ruined the rotor with my puller. I've gotten GS750 and 550 rotors off without problems, but this one seems almost welded on. I tried solvent, heat, mechanical shock, and a brute force puller. The last caused the magnets to break, and the rotor to bend. 8^(

Thanx.

 

[posplayr]

Pitposse comes through with 30 x 1.5 mm puller

Pitposse comes through with 30 x 1.5 mm puller

You need to measure yours to make sure (I'm finding a good caliper indespensible; Central tools makes a good digital one)

I just order this 30 x 1.5 mm to remove the one on my 83 gs1100E. I hope to have better luck and will up date this link once I get the tool just ordered yesterday.

By the way this tool doesnt come much cheaper, I usually see it advertized closer to $45-$50. Also watch very carfully for the right size, Z1enterprise lists a 35x1.5 mm version

http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/pullerchart.html

#MP14 30mm x 1.5mm RH External
Thread Deep Reach GS1100/1150 (81-85)
Note: small diameter rotors on these models




http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2166

Flywheel Puller 35mm x 1.5mm 3" Deep RH External KL35-5952
Please check size needed, the OEM switched puller size on some models part way through the production run
Flywheel Puller 35mm x 1.5mm RH External - Fits Suzuki GS1000 GS1100
$49.71




Motion Pro doesnt list the 30x1.5 mm puller but have the 35 x1.5 mm


http://www.motionpro.com/search/flywheel_pullers/

Again my 83 GS1100E is the 30x1.5 mm

Posplayr

 

[garicao]

update: GS1100 alternator rotor woes, self inflicted

update: GS1100 alternator rotor woes, self inflicted

Thanks for the rotor puller info; very helpful...for next time. After mangling the rotor with a 2-arm puller (note: don't do this), I finally managed to cut it off (don't do this either). I found that the original problem, starter motor not engaging, was not due to worn starter clutch rollers, but to the fact that all three bolts holding the starter clutch to the rotor had sheared off. Fortunately, I found all three.

Anyhow, I'm looking for a rotor. Are the 30mm and 35mm rotors otherwise the same, and interchangeable?

--garicao

"We're lost, but we're maiking good time."

 

[posplayr]

Dont know about interchangeability but

Dont know about interchangeability but

my 1983 GS1100E engine # is GS1100-161029 and it has the 30x1.5 mm.

I would guess unless the crank changed then they would be interchangeable to fit.

Someone else might know.

Your giving second thoughts about doing a "preventative" maintenance dive into my starter clutch.

Good Luck

Posplayr

 

[Guest]

You need a rotor off what alot of people call the "big end crank"
On ebay all the time.

 

[posplayr]

Score 1 to 0 in favor of the rotor

Score 1 to 0 in favor of the rotor

The tool is ruined. I used plenty of bearing grease, and heated the rotor hub and the inner bolt threads still gave.
I spoke with a local shop, the trick apparently is to use some type of super heat device and a brass puch right between teh eyes, I mean on the center of the crank shaft. Experts only I suspect .
The good news is my rotor is still in one peice but firmly installed on teh crank.

Posplayr

 

[rapidray]

The rotor for the 1150 is the same & some times they are just a BEAR to get off. I have had to put heat to them in the past AND shock they with an air impact while they were hot to get them loose. I have probably killed at LEAST 3 or 4 pullers over the years. When you get it off you will likely find it was Loctited, or epoxied on & that the end of the crank has been chewed. I have rotors. Good luck, Ray.

 

[posplayr]

I finally had success

I finally had success

I found a shop that recommended more heat than propane and to use a MAPP Gas Torch. Also after destroying my puller, I reused the hub female part and dirilled it out to 11/16" and tapped it for use of a larger hardened bolt that used the entire inner length for threads. Now the $35 tool is much stronger( dont buy the tap and drill, get a machine shop to do it; it will probably be cheaper) .

We did some minor center punching of the crank shaft and also be careful not to overheat the magnets. Mine had previously been over heated and had burned some of the magnetic bonding material (apparently).

Otherwise, mine looks in good shape (but there is some wear on the hub portion where the barrels ride) for $95 I can get a complete OEM clutch assembly(ordered to day).

With the motor on the ground, using a 12" crescent wrench (with my foot on it) and a 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar on the puller nut, I was able to break the bond and get all apart without any damage. Surprisingly there was no evidence of locktight or the OEM epoxy-like material on the threads or the tappered crank shaft. I wonder if it had just been overtightened to be so hard to get off. Other that a slight nick inside of the hub the surfaces appear almost new.

As an additional precaution I used grease on the puller threads.

I'm updating the link but on the wrong computer to get the pics.
Posplayr

 

[Guest]

Thanks for sharing the sucess story. :-D

 

[posplayr]

Pics of Rotor Puller Success

Pics of Rotor Puller Success

This is a pciture of the modified puller which is much stonger than the original see the mangled bolt I had to extract from the puller after stripping the threads.

Here is a picture of the hup after removal, some heat marks but otherwise intact.

As an aside, the clutch surface on the main flywheel gear had some flattening on teh circumference which if it had been my 750, I would have just reinstalled. But on the 1100 and the difficulty of removal, for $95 I can swap out the full starter clutch assembly. It is difficlt to see the flattening but it is significantly worse than the clutch I pulled off my GS750 parts bike ith 30K miles on it. The barrels were near perfect (0.001" shy of new).

Posplayr