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Anonymous
Guest
I need to pull the rotor on my 78 GS750, to replace the starter bearings.
Anyone know the proper size puller I need?
Anyone know the proper size puller I need?
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humhead
Guest
This is one of those repairs that calls for a "special tool" that suzuki sells.
The Haynes service manual says the swingarm pivot bolt is the same size & thread as the rotor bolt. They recommend making a slide puller out of the swingarm bolt, washers & a large socket or similar weight. (the "special tool" looks a lot like this setup)
Everybody agrees that using a 3 or 4 jaw puller is a big no-no!
I've never tried this myself, but it should be easy enough to verify. If the swingarm nut threads onto the rotor bolt, the Haynes trick should work.
Terry
The Haynes service manual says the swingarm pivot bolt is the same size & thread as the rotor bolt. They recommend making a slide puller out of the swingarm bolt, washers & a large socket or similar weight. (the "special tool" looks a lot like this setup)
Everybody agrees that using a 3 or 4 jaw puller is a big no-no!
I've never tried this myself, but it should be easy enough to verify. If the swingarm nut threads onto the rotor bolt, the Haynes trick should work.
Terry
A
Anonymous
Guest
Forget making a slide hammer puller. If yours is like mine, it's gonna take a lot more oomph than a slide hammer puller can make....unless you want to risk messing up your crank bearings (with an exceptionally large weight on the slide)!!!
My puller was a hardened bolt, M16 if I remember. I tightened a set of chain Vise grips around the outside of the rotor to keep it from turning. Then I tightened the heck out of the extractor bolt. It took a 3 foot cheater pipe and a lot of muscle before the extractor bolt began to budge the rotor. But it worked, safely and without damaging crank, rotor, crank bearings, or cases.
My puller was a hardened bolt, M16 if I remember. I tightened a set of chain Vise grips around the outside of the rotor to keep it from turning. Then I tightened the heck out of the extractor bolt. It took a 3 foot cheater pipe and a lot of muscle before the extractor bolt began to budge the rotor. But it worked, safely and without damaging crank, rotor, crank bearings, or cases.
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Anonymous
Guest
Rotor Puller
I ordered a puller from the dealer $16. The reason I'm pulling it is to clean the metal shavings and grime behind it, and to replace the starter clutch bearings.
I ordered a puller from the dealer $16. The reason I'm pulling it is to clean the metal shavings and grime behind it, and to replace the starter clutch bearings.
