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Ruined carbs - help needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter mobius
  • Start date Start date
M

mobius

Guest
Well after spending hours upon hours of cleaning and dipping the carbs. I finally re-assembled the 4 carbs together using brand new allen bolts (the phillips heads were stripped badly). I finally sat down to "bench sync" the carbs and as I go to adjust the sync screw between 3 and 4. It was a bit stubborn to turn so I used a bit more force that i probably needed to. I assume the piece was weakened somehow before because as I tried to turn the screw, pop comes off the carb piece holding the screw.F*%&. I am extremely desperate right now....
As it stands, carb #4 is basically useless since the throttle lever can't do
I'm not sure if they can be welded together, I'm looking for suggestions on a fix for this, if at all possible. is there any way to replace the pivoting assembly altogether? Or can i build some type of small vise-thingy to connect the throttle lever to carb #4.

Also, If anyone has a spare set of carbs I would be willing to buy the entire set . This is on a '81 gs550t.
Please, I need help.:(



 
I've seen these fixed with what looks like Araldite. And a guy at a show did a demo of Durafix welding (actually more like a solder) on a set of carbs - looked pretty strong.
 
hampshirehog said:
I've seen these fixed with what looks like Araldite. And a guy at a show did a demo of Durafix welding (actually more like a solder) on a set of carbs - looked pretty strong.
Click to expand...
Yes, it's probably steel, so could be welded or brazed fairly well!
 
hampshirehog said:
I've seen these fixed with what looks like Araldite. And a guy at a show did a demo of Durafix welding (actually more like a solder) on a set of carbs - looked pretty strong.
Click to expand...

tom203 said:
Yes, it's probably steel, so could be welded or brazed fairly well!
Click to expand...

Given that I have no welding equipment/experience, where can I take the carb to have the piece welded in place?

This bike has been nothing but headaches....sigh
 
chef1366 said:
shoot, I have a 2 and 3 but no 4.
Click to expand...

Murphy's law is in full effect with this motorcycle.

I've been thinking for the past few hours and I came up with what I call a "desperate-man's solution"

Do you all think I could get a U-shaped piece of metal and screw it tight to the bottom part and have an adjustable bolt and nut on the top (above the throttle lever) and have that function as the linkage between carbs 3 and 4?

I've hit rock bottom..don't know what to do!
 
If you can post some other pics, or if anyone knows if a gs450ga carb will work for that, I have 2 extra carb bodies I would part with for 10 bucks (each) + shipping. I ripped most of the jets and stuff out of them for my current set, so I don't need the bodies or anything.
 
it just pot metal basically and very porous. I would try to get the screw and lock nut free first and working freely. Mix up some JB weld and squish it into the pores on each piece and set it back together and maybe a bit on the outer edge where it will be out of the way. Hey its broke now so you got nothing to loose.
 
Vantreeseba said:
If you can post some other pics, or if anyone knows if a gs450ga carb will work for that, I have 2 extra carb bodies I would part with for 10 bucks (each) + shipping. I ripped most of the jets and stuff out of them for my current set, so I don't need the bodies or anything.
Click to expand...

I have the Mikuni BS34SS carburetors -'81 GS550T. I believe the 450's have a bore size of 34mm (BS34SS), which would not correspond to this model.

Does anyone know if the 650's used the same carb body as the 550 but with different jet sizes? My carb has all the components in very good shape and can replace them into a 650 carb #4. is that possible? :confused:

Any ideas?
 
mobius said:
I have the Mikuni BS34SS carburetors -'81 GS550T. I believe the 450's have a bore size of 34mm (BS34SS), which would not correspond to this model.

Does anyone know if the 650's used the same carb body as the 550 but with different jet sizes? My carb has all the components in very good shape and can replace them into a 650 carb #4. is that possible? :confused:

Any ideas?
Click to expand...
You can use the 650 carbs but not the 750/850.
Actually the spacing is different on the 2 and 3 carb on the 750/850 but the 1 and 4 are the same.
 
I'll +1 on the JB weld or something similar. A) It's hardly pushing anything at all since the spring is on the other side, B) only special equipment required is a toothpick and C) as was already stated - There's nothing to lose.
I did this on the stop for a miter box, which was under considerably more stress and impacts, and it held for years (unfortunately I use my miter box more than my bike).

Edit - After looking at a set in my basement, I was wrong - it is under stress of the spring. I no longer think JB weld is such a good idea.
 
Last edited:
question: If i were to replace the #4 on mine with one from a 650, what is the significance of the number that is on the butterfly?

Mine says 140, but the 650 says 135?? would I need to change those too?
 
mobius said:
question: If i were to replace the #4 on mine with one from a 650, what is the significance of the number that is on the butterfly?

Mine says 140, but the 650 says 135?? would I need to change those too?
Click to expand...
If you sync them the numbers on the butterfly won't make a difference.
 
This is an easy fix. No reason to fret.

Those adjuster pieces are attached to the throttle shaft with a small roll pin. You simply need to find a small nail of the right diameter to drive out the pin, install a replacement piece, and then put the pin back in. I should have some of those adjuster pieces. Shoot me a PM if you want to get one and/or discuss further.
 
Some more pictures of the adjuster, with the carb taken off the set. Posted for Ed.

dsc03183j.jpg


dsc03188zd.jpg


dsc03186f.jpg
 
Hi Pat,

The 34 mm carb pieces are the same size. Unfortunately, the pieces I have are the mirror image of the piece you need. I think there are RH and LH oriented pieces so to speak and the ones I have won't work for you. So sorry, but don't give up hope. Post those photos in the parts wanted forum and someone here will have a carb body you can take that piece from. It's easy to change, trust me.

Ed
 
back with some more questions about these carbs that are slowly driving me up the walls. Excuse the length, I like pictures and detail :o

Well I purchased a carburetor body from a '82 GS650Z - it was mentioned earlier in the thread that the 650 carb would work with my setup [BS32SS]. I checked the Mikuni stats page on basscliff's site and seemed that simply changing the components into the new carb body would solve the problem, but boy was I wrong...
The parts arrived today and I cheerfully started to transfer all the parts from the broken body into the new one, thinking I would soon start the engine for the first time in over 2 years. As you would have guessed, I have once again run into a wall :(

After replacing the jets and float I put the float bowl on..*gasp*....wait a minute something is not right here, it doesn't seem to make contact with the gasket...
After a couple of minutes of observation I pulled out a ruler and started measuring. Guess what the problem is yet? you got it! the new "choke circuit fuel pickup tube" is 4 mm longer than the one on the original -guess size does matter!!!

here is a picture, because they tell more than I ever could - right is the original :

dsc03192q.jpg



so right now if I put the float bowl on, it will make very close contact with the gasket but I think all the pressure is put on the brass tube - not good right ? :rolleyes:


so my other option is to take off the adjuster piece all altogether and replace it with the functional one. But here is where the other problem starts - after all these consecutive failures I am slowly losing all confidence in my wrenching ability so I'm not quite certain if these roll pins are in my league. I don't own any roll pin punch tools - are there any alternatives to taking them out? how would I re-install them? (if they can in fact be reinstalled)

Here are the suckers that are giving me hell:
Broken:

dsc03194q.jpg


Replacement:

dsc03195m.jpg



I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could provide pictures or videos on how to remove the roll pins or suggest a way to use the current setup?
 
Cut the tube off to the right length. Use a dremmel or a hack saw and don't break it. It will work as long as it can suck fuel because there is a jet in the float bowl that will meter the fuel.
 
Mobius, have you repaired this yet?

If not I have the answer for you.
Find a nail you have around the house close to the same size as the pin in that linkage. I am guessing a framing nail will do without looking closer.
The nail needs to be a hardened nail, not aluminum or zinc.

Cut the tip off as flat as you can.
You are not trying to win a beauty contest on how flat the nail is :D

Support the bottom side of the linkage and leave the pin hole exposed and drive that puppy out.

I have used said method in a pinch on many a lawn mower pulley and it has worked every time.

If you are not sure you can do this, go buy a punch of the same size as the pin and drive that thing out.

Small ball peen hammers work best for this.
 
I have a full rack off a 700 if they'd work by switching jets, etc.
 
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