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Rule #11

  • Thread starter Thread starter andtheacademics
  • Start date Start date
If you hold your hand up to signal a right turn, they'll likely just "wave back" after they've run you over...

...Funny you should mention that, I almost kissed the bumper of a 50's benz when the guy hand-signaled a left turn while I was changing into his lane... Whoever thought to make blinkers mandatory was a good guy in my book!

cb-750-cafe-racer-03.jpg


So this bad boy probably has a battery hidden in the tail section... looks badazz (too bad it's a Honda)
 
Some folks do a kick start only bike by adding a capacitor to supply (somehow) the initial power and spark needed to get the engine started from the kick. If I do any streamlining, however, it would be to re-wire for a smaller battery that hides in the tail section.

I have sometimes wondered if a semi-kick-start only bike might work with an underpowered battery instead of a capacitor. Not a serious consideration, but I managed to order the wrong AGM battery from Amazon (12v but only 55 CCA). It's super small, but would not have the juice to start the bike I think.

Would it be possible to tuck a small battery like that into the bike to provide initial spark for the kick similar to the capacitor system other guys run?

Ultimately, I'll probably just hunt down a better sized AGM in the correct power range. Those Lith batteries are pricey and a little spooky IMO.
 
My DR 441 has a NiCad battery the size of a C cell, it has signals, headlight, tail light and even a horn that used to work. A capacitor will still allow these things to work, a lot of guys who convert dirt bikes to street legal use capacitors instead of a battery. When the engine is running the alternator can make as much power as it could make with a battery installed. The only difference is there is a lot less stability in the voltage, which doesn't matter with a breaker point ignition. You can't run any lights with the engine off, but that really doesn't matter. Yes, you have to kick start it.
I wouldn't ride a road bike without signals, no one even sees the hand signals anymore.

I watched a pirate with lots of bells and tassels but no turn signals the other day, very funny. Does this big elaborate hand wave thing to gain attention and it kind of morphed into the signal for a or left right turn, did this quite a few times, at intersections and a couple lane changes, all the while never turning his head to check the next lane. Did the big right turn thing one more time and slid over into the lane to his right with a slightly faster pickup truck in it. The truck honked at him and he pirate went all apesh;t yelling and screaming and using even bigger hand waving signals at the guy who was to busy laughing at him to hear it.
What an idiot.
 
...and he pirate went all apesh;t yelling and screaming and using even bigger hand waving signals at the guy who was to busy laughing at him to hear it.
What an idiot.

I have a family member who, on the topic of Hardly's, once said to me, "No no no, you don't understand - it's about making a lot of noise and going very slowly."

I remember thinking 'how could someone be so attached to a brand, it's absurd.'

...suzuki #5
 
I come home today to take the bike over to the DMV and get it registered. Put the two side panels back on. Re-wire turn signals, turn bike on, disengage kill switch;

Pop. 10A fuse blows.
Replace fuse.
Pop. 10A fuse blows.
Take all panels back off, remove turn signal wiring, tape off loose ends to insulate, replace fuse.
Pop. 10A fuse blows.
Reach under tank, loosen clips for harness in case there is some unintentional contact happening with the gas tank? replace fuse.
Pop. 10A fuse blows. (out of 10A fuses now)

Dear Betty, You were running the night before last, what is your problem?
 
If a fuse blows, every replacement fuse will also blow until you find and eliminate the short. Trace through the wiring, especially wherever you made changes that might have disrupted insulation and created a short. Figure out where the wires are crossing or contacting the frame.

BTW - your main fuse should be 15 AMPs. I don't think that normal use would draw >10 amps right away though, so the blown fuses still indicate a short. Pick up some 15 AMP fuses, but you still need to hunt down the short because those will probably continue to blow.
 
If a fuse blows, every replacement fuse will also blow until you find and eliminate the short. Trace through the wiring, especially wherever you made changes that might have disrupted insulation and created a short. Figure out where the wires are crossing or contacting the frame.

BTW - your main fuse should be 15 AMPs. I don't think that normal use would draw >10 amps right away though, so the blown fuses still indicate a short. Pick up some 15 AMP fuses, but you still need to hunt down the short because those will probably continue to blow.

MC - I've started a thread in electrical as I don't want to bog down C/F/E with irrelevant posts.

I also took a little video of my wiring harness which looks like it very well may have been assembled by a pigeon.
 
Bic makes some close enough in diameter.
Might have to loosen or tighten them up just a tad. Can't remember which.

Back on my carb work-out and I can't find these springs (for the fuel pilot) on boulevard suzuki - what/who is Bic? I can't imagine you're referring to the pen company....

Thanks

A
 
All it does is keep the screw from turning. Nothing critical. Adjust the spring as close to the correct size as you can...
 
All it does is keep the screw from turning. Nothing critical. Adjust the spring as close to the correct size as you can...

...So - I don't have to order a special tool from Z1 to install a special part from Deland!? Which 30 page section of the manual should I print out!? j/k

...Maybe I can save some additional cash by using the pen housing in place of a petcock vacuum line... j/k

Thanks folks - here all night.
 
Okay - so I finally got out and running around, a short jaunt on the highway. She's still not idling perfectly (I'm waiting for tools/ parts from z1 + boulevard suzuki) But I have to come clean - this is the first 4cyl bike I've owned and on the highway 70mph = ~4600rpm in 5th... does that sound about right? She really doesn't feel like she wants to go much faster than that... Am I being too timid with the throttle? Or will the valve/ sync really change the engine that much?
 
Am I being too timid with the throttle? Or will the valve/ sync really change the engine that much?


Both

It should take off hard if you open it up at 4600

And it will take off harder after you've finished tuning it
 
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