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running & brake light staying on

  • Thread starter Thread starter GSOH
  • Start date Start date
G

GSOH

Guest
My taillight melted to the red plastic and I think either shorted or fused a wire somewhere in the harness. After replacing with an 1157 LL, both filaments now stay lit. I've traced the white & brown wire out of the light & toward the battery area. Any ideas where this could be going bad? All the fuses look good. Replaced 15amp signal thinking that would remedy but no dice. There are are few inline connectors that could be suspect.

82 GS1100L
 
Hi,

Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

Front Brake Switch Repair
(by Mr. gravity tester)

If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
The brown tail light wire goes straight to the ignition switch.

The white brake light wire is fed by both front and back switches, but like BassCliff said, it's usually the front switch that has the problems.
You can get a new front switch assembly for about $10.

.
 
It looks like it may be the front brake. I pulled it apart and only one small piece ( the copper block) was in there. Surely the other two tiny pieces didn't fall out on the floor:confused: I'm hoping this is all it is. Definitely seems suspect.

Hoping the bike yard near me has an old brake I can salvage parts.

BassCliff said:
Hi,

Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

Front Brake Switch Repair
(by Mr. gravity tester)

If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
 
Well, that is 110% the problem! With front brake assembly still apart, turned key, only one filament on. Kicking back pedal, brake light activates!

Thanks for such quick response!
 
Good troubleshooting. Disconnect the front brake swtich and brake light goes off, then it was the front swtich that was keeping the brake light on.

Replacement new swtiches are about 15 dollars.



GSOH said:
........ Replaced 15amp signal .....
Click to expand...

Only the Main fuse should be 15amp. All the others are 10 amp.



.
 
The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.
 
OldVet66 said:
The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.
Click to expand...
Yes, but they also require that you are acutally in the process of stopping before the light ever comes on. :-k

Having the light come on by barely squeezing the lever will give following motorists a split-second notice that you are about to be stopping.

It also enables you to flash the light to get someone's attention without actually slowing down.

.
 
chuck hahn said:
The full kit....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUZUKI-...ies&hash=item53f91168cd&vxp=mtr#ht_2033wt_882
Click to expand...


Buying the full kit for a buck more seems the way to go. I'm still gonna hit up the local parts yard and see if I cant salvage one. Also, my neighbor gave me one out of his old assembly, but it doesnt have the fluted sides allowing the copper plate to easily (?) slide back and forth to contact the actuator plates. May have to mess with it a few minutes to get it up and moving again.
 
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