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Running on 3 ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Par6
  • Start date Start date
Hi,

Recoush said:
Any better ideas
Click to expand...

Yes. Start your own thread instead of hijacking someone else's. ;)

Put your bike's year and model in your sig file.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Par6,

I just noticed you were new and probably haven't received your "mega-welcome". You'll find most of what you need to maintain your bike in the links below. There are hours of reading in the links below but will save you days in wasted effort and frustration.

If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. In the links below you'll find maintenance lists, documentation, wiring diagrams, "how to" guides, vendor links, tips, tricks, and a whole lot of GS goodness. This is your "mega-welcome". Let's get started. :)

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

More links to helpful threads in the forum:
Help! Your Bike Won't Start
DON'T DO THESE THINGS
Help! Your Bike Won't Run Well
Oh God! Pods!


Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks BassCliff.
I took the carbs off last night and there are definitely no o rings in the carb rubbers :confused: I'm a bit confused as to where they fit as I've never owned a bike that had o rings there, they all just had the carb going straight into the intake rubber then secured with a clamp. Are there any pictures off these o rings in situ ? Cheers.
 
when you pull the carbs off the head, are you left with rubber intake manifolds still bolted to the head, 4 of them, 1 for each carb. if so then unbolt these and there is a rubber o ring which fits between these manifold rubbers and the face of the head where they bolt to. these are the o rings that need replacing.
 
Ahhhh, so that's where they are, I'll remove the rubbers and see if they are there, big thanks.
 
When I drained the fuel from the drain bolts on the carbs there was slightly less fuel that came out of the carb from the non running cylinder. On removing the bowls, the tang on the floats on that carb was noticeably bent down further than the other three allowing less fuel in the chamber, maybe the reason for the stumbling firing on that cylinder ? I will clean them all anyway as the bike still wouldn't run off choke.
 
that will probably be most of the problem, although you will still need to give them all a very good clean. when rebuilding, check and reset all the float heights to spec. this will help an awful lot.........
 
I have taken one of the intake boots off, damn those screws are on tight wish they had used bolts or Allen fasteners :confused:, and I can't see an o ring anywhere ? There is a ring of rubber that is flush with the face of the collar, is that the o ring or is that part of the rubber boot ? I have tried to lever it out but no luck.
 
Par6 said:
I have taken one of the intake boots off, damn those screws are on tight wish they had used bolts or Allen fasteners :confused:, and I can't see an o ring anywhere ? There is a ring of rubber that is flush with the face of the collar, is that the o ring or is that part of the rubber boot ? I have tried to lever it out but no luck.
Click to expand...
That "ring of rubber that is flush with the face" is the o-ring. :eek:

Contact cycleorings.com for a full set of o-rings for your carbs and intake boots. He also offers stainless Allen-head bolts to hold the manifolds, but you might be better off to source them locally, due to shipping costs.

.
 
Damn, those screws that hold the intake rubbers on are really tight, so much so that I've chewed up 4 of them all on the middle two cylinders :(
Any tips on getting them out ? Is it a case of a hacksaw and cutting a slot head into them ?
Those o ring rubbers are now circles of brittle plastic, they just snapped out in pieces :eek: guess that's what 32 years of use does, just ordered some new ones from Robinsons Foundary, he said they'll be here tomorrow :D
Just got to clean the carbs properly now :o
 
Par6 said:
Damn, those screws that hold the intake rubbers on are really tight, so much so that I've chewed up 4 of them all on the middle two cylinders :(
Any tips on getting them out ? Is it a case of a hacksaw and cutting a slot head into them ?
Those o ring rubbers are now circles of brittle plastic, they just snapped out in pieces :eek: guess that's what 32 years of use does, just ordered some new ones from Robinsons Foundary, he said they'll be here tomorrow :D
Just got to clean the carbs properly now :o
Click to expand...

Here are some of the common remedies for those buggered up screws.
I'm assuming your inner two cylinders have all four screws rounded out.
Some have used needle nosed vice grips.
You could try a impact driver if it will grip the Phillips slot.
Cut a slot in it and again impact driver.

This is what works with me for those screws.
Tap the side of the screw with a sharp wood chisel in the direction you want the screw to turn.
If you can get one off of each boot, you can usually rotate the boot in the direction you want the screw to turn to loosen the remaining screw.

Replace those screws with Allen's and put some anti-seize on the threads.
 
Par6 said:
Damn, those screws that hold the intake rubbers on are really tight, so much so that I've chewed up 4 of them all on the middle two cylinders :(
Any tips on getting them out ? Is it a case of a hacksaw and cutting a slot head into them ?
Those o ring rubbers are now circles of brittle plastic, they just snapped out in pieces :eek: guess that's what 32 years of use does, just ordered some new ones from Robinsons Foundary, he said they'll be here tomorrow :D
Just got to clean the carbs properly now :o
Click to expand...

If cutting into them doesn't work, your best option will by vice clamp pliers. Do it slowly, you don't want to break the heads off. That's exactly what just happened to me when attempting to remove my valve head cover... Now I can't touch it. For replacement screws get yourself some M6x16mm allen head screws for the intake rubbers. Just order from cycleorings.com as you will have the best you can get for the price. I'm not sure if he ships overseas but maybe you'll be able to make some type of special arrangement.
 
Staninator said:
If cutting into them doesn't work, your best option will by vice clamp pliers. Do it slowly, you don't want to break the heads off. That's exactly what just happened to me when attempting to remove my valve head cover... Now I can't touch it. For replacement screws get yourself some M6x16mm allen head screws for the intake rubbers. Just order from cycleorings.com as you will have the best you can get for the price. I'm not sure if he ships overseas but maybe you'll be able to make some type of special arrangement.
Click to expand...

there are plenty of places in the UK to get S/S allen head screws, rather than get them shipped from abroad.
 
Agemax said:
there are plenty of places in the UK to get S/S allen head screws, rather than get them shipped from abroad.
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the whole kit brother. Not just the screws... I'm sure there is definitely a place in the UK that would sell hardware for a killer price.
 
sedelen said:
Here are some of the common remedies for those buggered up screws.
I'm assuming your inner two cylinders have all four screws rounded out.
Some have used needle nosed vice grips.
You could try a impact driver if it will grip the Phillips slot.
Cut a slot in it and again impact driver.

This is what works with me for those screws.
Tap the side of the screw with a sharp wood chisel in the direction you want the screw to turn.
If you can get one off of each boot, you can usually rotate the boot in the direction you want the screw to turn to loosen the remaining screw.

Replace those screws with Allen's and put some anti-seize on the threads.
Click to expand...
Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?
 
Par6 said:
Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?
Click to expand...

I'll spray them down with some silicon lubricant before I put them in. I would recommend getting them moist so that they create a better seal.
 
Hi,

Par6 said:
Thanks BassCliff.
I took the carbs off last night and there are definitely no o rings in the carb rubbers :confused: I'm a bit confused as to where they fit as I've never owned a bike that had o rings there, they all just had the carb going straight into the intake rubber then secured with a clamp. Are there any pictures off these o rings in situ ? Cheers.
Click to expand...

The O-rings themselves are fitted between the intake boots and the head.

You will find complete carb tear-down and rebuild procedures, air intake repair procedures, etc, with lots of pictures, in the "how to" guides on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Par6 said:
Thanks BassCliff.
I took the carbs off last night and there are definitely no o rings in the carb rubbers :confused: I'm a bit confused as to where they fit as I've never owned a bike that had o rings there, they all just had the carb going straight into the intake rubber then secured with a clamp. Are there any pictures off these o rings in situ ? Cheers.
Click to expand...

The O-Rings are between the intake boots and the cylinder head. You won't see them when pulling the carbs. Gotta pull the boots as well.
 
Par6 said:
Great tip about hitting with a sharp flat screwdriver, worked a treat, thanks.
When refitting the new o rings should they be greased or just put in dry ?
Click to expand...

I like to grease the O-rings first to keep them in place while reinstalling the boots, and seal them in the channel.

While they're off, check the boots to make sure they have no cracks, aren't hardened and dried out (and therefore soon to crack).
 
If you don't have an impact driver, get one. Cheap as chips and you'll practically never strip a stubborn screw again. And then replace the screws with stainless-steel allen-head bolts.

I had to use my impact driver on my carbs just to get them separated from the rail. (I had to have another person hold the carbs though, as you have to really watch where the force goes. It's pretty easy to crack something if you're not careful.)
 
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