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Running too hot?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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On the way home it was close too 90 in stop and go traffic, and the temp gauge on my 82 gs11e went to 320, then dropped to 220 then went back up but stayed at 320 or close most of the time, is it really running that hot? anything too check?
thanks
 
Re: Running too hot?

If the guage is working normally, the only thing I know of that will make it fluctuate abruptly with a large span in readings is being very low on oil or having a petcock leak resulting in having a substantial amount of gas contaminating the crankcase oil. In 90F + temps, my 1150 oil temp averages 175-180F.

Earl


bostrom155 said:
On the way home it was close too 90 in stop and go traffic, and the temp gauge on my 82 gs11e went to 320, then dropped to 220 then went back up but stayed at 320 or close most of the time, is it really running that hot? anything too check?
thanks
Click to expand...
 
Optimum oil temp is app. 210F, at this temp any water in the oil as a result of normal combustion gets burned off. Any hotter than about 240F on a stock machine under normal conditions, I would be concerned. My modified 83 GS750 normally runs at 210-220F with 320F being at the extreme top of the scale on the oil temp gauge. It could be a gauge error, if you were really temping that high you should notice it in the way the bike runs such as engine pinging or detonation. Either way I would check it out, if those temps are actual, normal petroleum based oil will have a really hard time keeping things lubricated. Ride On, Ed.
 
I guess i'll change the oil again i dont have a manual, but the guy at the shop told me it holds 4 Qts. so i put the large bottle of motul 10w40 in.
Is 4 quarts correct??? before i change oil is thier any thing else to check
 
I got stuck in traffic several years ago in 90+ weather and my 82 1100e guage pegged 320. My bike began to smoke out the exhaust pipe. Not a nice feeling. Typically it sits around 8 oclock but has approached 10 oclock on the dial on a hot day.

The bike holds 3.4 US quarts without oil filter change and 3.8 quarts with a filter change. I always make sure it is at the proper level in the sight glass with the bike level.

I have always run 10w40 but based on alot of reading here I have already purchased 20w50 for my next oil change.
 
bostrom155 said:
...the guy at the shop told me it holds 4 Qts. so i put the large bottle of motul 10w40 in.
Is 4 quarts correct???
Click to expand...

It sounds like pano has provided the info you need on volume, and has suggested you learn to check your oil level in the sight-window. As pano suggests, the latter is the only way to go when adjusting oil level/volume in the real world. Knowing the approximate volume necessary for an oil or oil/filter change is only for the purpose of buying the correct amount of oil at the store.

Overfilling your crankcase can damage the engine. Get a Clymer or similar maintenance manual in all cases, but learn how to check that oil level immediately.

As a rule of thumb, put the bike on the centerstand on level ground when the engine is off and cold, the oil level should be visible thru' the sight-window low on the right side of the engine. The sight-window should have lines marked "L" (low) and "H" (high) or similar. The oil level should fall between those lines. If the engine is hot, the oil level may appear somewhat overfull, but may actually fall between the lines when cold.

I've been running Mobil-1 15W-50 automotive synthetic oil this season without problem. My '81 doesn't have an oil cooler, so I like the extra temperature protection margin that synthetic provides.
 
To get a proper reading of the oil level in the site window BOTH wheels need to be on the ground, and hold the bike upright and level. Having the bike on the centerstand will give a false reading
 
my site glass is not readable too cloudy. but its not leaking and i changed the filter, so no need to check that? guess the gauge is faulty
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
To get a proper reading of the oil level in the site window BOTH wheels need to be on the ground, and hold the bike upright and level. Having the bike on the centerstand will give a false reading
Click to expand...

Perhaps this is different bike to bike, but my original Suzuki owner's manual, and my original Suzuki factory service manual, and my Clymer manual all describe the procedure for checking the oil level on my '81 1100EX, and all state the bike must be on the centerstand. Your bike is an '82, correct?

I don't think the advice to check the oil level when both wheels are on the ground is faulty, because it does ensure that the bike is upright by nature of it being balanced. In fact, I have checked it both ways, and I've found little difference (taking for granted that the bike IS on level ground when on the centerstand/both wheels).
 
i have an oil cooler put i think its too low, would that make a big diff?
 
It is perfectly fine to check engine oil level on the center stand. There is absolutely no difference doing it this way as opposed to balancing the bike upright on both wheels. Ride On, Ed.
 
Al Munro said:
It sounds like pano has provided the info you need on volume, and has suggested you learn to check your oil level in the sight-window. As pano suggests, the latter is the only way to go when adjusting oil level/volume in the real world. Knowing the approximate volume necessary for an oil or oil/filter change is only for the purpose of buying the correct amount of oil at the store.
Click to expand...
I agree. My bike takes pretty much 4 litres with a filter change, even though the manual says it should take less. 8)
 
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