R
rattman1
Guest
by flooding... i mean that the plugs are gtg carboned up to the point that they begin to fail within 5 minutes of riding. Fyi... for the most part I'm on a street that is 55-60 mph.
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T
t3rmin
Guest
Can you get it to last longer if you run it harder? The floats cease to be so much of a factor at bigger throttle openings. Are you running it easy or hard?
R
rattman1
Guest
i run it between 4 and 6 thousand rpms for the most part. plugs seem to get fouled regardless of the speed.
once the plugs are fouled the bike runs crappiest at low rpms and not as bad at hi rpms... but i really have to get above 5000 rpms to see a slight improvement...
what do you guys think about raising the floats above 24mm so that even less fuel gets into the bowls?
also... did anyone catch my observation a few posts back about one of the starter jets missing?
thanks so much everyone!
i'm really stumped!
once the plugs are fouled the bike runs crappiest at low rpms and not as bad at hi rpms... but i really have to get above 5000 rpms to see a slight improvement...
what do you guys think about raising the floats above 24mm so that even less fuel gets into the bowls?
also... did anyone catch my observation a few posts back about one of the starter jets missing?
thanks so much everyone!
i'm really stumped!
C
Clone
Guest
[-o<
Keith is the god of carbs. He will set you straight. Listen to him.
Your plugs are fouling, there is no way your bike could be lean.
You have problems which you have identified, but say it is not the problem.
If it is broken fix it. Petcock, fix it or replace it.
Reset the float height to the correct levels with the correct procedures.
Replace the little orings under the float seats.
Set the carbs as Keith has described.
Check the valves, it only takes an hour or so.
Run the bike and do a chop.
Keith is the god of carbs. He will set you straight. Listen to him.
Your plugs are fouling, there is no way your bike could be lean.
You have problems which you have identified, but say it is not the problem.
If it is broken fix it. Petcock, fix it or replace it.
Reset the float height to the correct levels with the correct procedures.
Replace the little orings under the float seats.
Set the carbs as Keith has described.
Check the valves, it only takes an hour or so.
Run the bike and do a chop.
Yes, the carb with the missing starter jet will run very rich with the choke operated. Hard to say, but it's possible there are other things wrong with the carbs if you found that kind of damage.
Don't try to compensate for another problem and make things worse. Leave the floats set at .94".
If the petcock leaks, rebuild or replace it.
I'm assuming your rich/fouling plugs are after general riding around, correct?? That means speeds of 60 and below/city type riding? If so, then you're riding on the pilot circuit with some overlap from the jet needle circuit. If your problem is carb related, consider this...
Your jet needles are set at the 4th position from the top, 1 richer than factory. With your mods, there's no way that the jet needle position is to blame. If anything, my experience says your needles are actually at a lean position. Of course, if a PO used different needles or there's an unknown here, the sky's the limit as to what may be wrong. We can only assume the basic components are stock in the carbs.
A richness possibility is that the factory plastic jet needle spacers were not installed correctly or the top one could be missing?? Verify with us that the two spacers are in correct order, thicker one directly on top the e-clip, and thinner spacer under the clip. If that's good...
Your mains should be around 125 and up to 130, depending on how the bike is flowing. You don't mention what the mains are but if you haven't done any 3/4 to full throttle riding, then incorrect mains would not be causing your richness problem. I only mention it for the future and to eliminate a cause.
Your pilot jet, if stock, should be 15, is it?? Are the jets tightened correctly? Your pilot fuel screw (underneath) should be approx' 1 1/4 turn out from LIGHTLY seated. You can try 1 turn out to see if it helps. I seriously doubt that less than that is needed. At the point of 1 turn out, the pilot fuel screws are not the cause of the fouling.
Very important, the side air screws must be adjusted using the highest rpm method. Try setting them initially to 1 3/4 from lightly seated. At that position, any richness problem will not be caused by the air screws. They should be set using the highest rpm method though.
The 2 floatbowl lines must be removed when running pods. Are they??
The carbs must be clean inside. Pay special attention to dirty air jets at the filter side/lower side of carb throat and the needle jets tiny holes (what the jet needle slides through). They can cause a rich mixture.
All inner o-rings must be in good condition. The o-ring that goes on the needle jet/bleedpipe is critical to stop a rich mixture.
Do the float valve needle seats each have a gasket? Either fiber or thin metal?
If you mixed up the valves and their respective seats, that can cause leaking as they wear as a set and shouldn't be swapped around.
The choke circuit must be operating correctly. The plungers must close and seat completely and not be lifted at all by the lifters when fully down. Do they? The rubber at the bottom of each choke plunger/tip must be in good condition or the resulting leaking will cause richness.
Floats must float. Shake them. Hear anything inside? Do they float up when held under in a bowl of fuel?
If any fuel is coming out of the dump line mounted under each bowl, you have an incorrect float level or sticking floats or damaged/missing float valve seat gasket, or damaged/weak springs in the valve or obvious "wear ring" around the tip of the valves.
The carbs must then be bench synched and then vacuum synched. Are they??
I was trying to focus on rich related carb problems. If all the above is verified OK, the carbs should be good.
If still a problem, that leads us to spark quality. In fact, you can reverse the order of this advice if you like.
From what little I know of your current jetting, your dark plugs may be more related to poor spark. You have a Dyna, but what about the coils and electrical connections and battery/voltages?
Have you verified that ALL connections are clean and tight? That means coil connections, plug caps, primary terminals (check for damaged strands), plug leads condition, harness connections, battery connections and grounds.
What does the spark look like in a darker area? With a clean/fresh NGK B8ES plug, correctly gapped at approx' .027", it should be bluish/white and reasonably "fat" at all 4 plugs. If very faint or orange in color, you have the basic weak spark.
What is battery voltage, running and not running? How much at the coils? If you have an ohm meter, what is the resistance at the primary terminals and the secondary (plug cap to plug cap)?
Connections, especially under certain conditions, can build up corrosion from just sitting. Coils get weak without notice. Battery voltage effects the whole system.
Don't try to compensate for another problem and make things worse. Leave the floats set at .94".
If the petcock leaks, rebuild or replace it.
I'm assuming your rich/fouling plugs are after general riding around, correct?? That means speeds of 60 and below/city type riding? If so, then you're riding on the pilot circuit with some overlap from the jet needle circuit. If your problem is carb related, consider this...
Your jet needles are set at the 4th position from the top, 1 richer than factory. With your mods, there's no way that the jet needle position is to blame. If anything, my experience says your needles are actually at a lean position. Of course, if a PO used different needles or there's an unknown here, the sky's the limit as to what may be wrong. We can only assume the basic components are stock in the carbs.
A richness possibility is that the factory plastic jet needle spacers were not installed correctly or the top one could be missing?? Verify with us that the two spacers are in correct order, thicker one directly on top the e-clip, and thinner spacer under the clip. If that's good...
Your mains should be around 125 and up to 130, depending on how the bike is flowing. You don't mention what the mains are but if you haven't done any 3/4 to full throttle riding, then incorrect mains would not be causing your richness problem. I only mention it for the future and to eliminate a cause.
Your pilot jet, if stock, should be 15, is it?? Are the jets tightened correctly? Your pilot fuel screw (underneath) should be approx' 1 1/4 turn out from LIGHTLY seated. You can try 1 turn out to see if it helps. I seriously doubt that less than that is needed. At the point of 1 turn out, the pilot fuel screws are not the cause of the fouling.
Very important, the side air screws must be adjusted using the highest rpm method. Try setting them initially to 1 3/4 from lightly seated. At that position, any richness problem will not be caused by the air screws. They should be set using the highest rpm method though.
The 2 floatbowl lines must be removed when running pods. Are they??
The carbs must be clean inside. Pay special attention to dirty air jets at the filter side/lower side of carb throat and the needle jets tiny holes (what the jet needle slides through). They can cause a rich mixture.
All inner o-rings must be in good condition. The o-ring that goes on the needle jet/bleedpipe is critical to stop a rich mixture.
Do the float valve needle seats each have a gasket? Either fiber or thin metal?
If you mixed up the valves and their respective seats, that can cause leaking as they wear as a set and shouldn't be swapped around.
The choke circuit must be operating correctly. The plungers must close and seat completely and not be lifted at all by the lifters when fully down. Do they? The rubber at the bottom of each choke plunger/tip must be in good condition or the resulting leaking will cause richness.
Floats must float. Shake them. Hear anything inside? Do they float up when held under in a bowl of fuel?
If any fuel is coming out of the dump line mounted under each bowl, you have an incorrect float level or sticking floats or damaged/missing float valve seat gasket, or damaged/weak springs in the valve or obvious "wear ring" around the tip of the valves.
The carbs must then be bench synched and then vacuum synched. Are they??
I was trying to focus on rich related carb problems. If all the above is verified OK, the carbs should be good.
If still a problem, that leads us to spark quality. In fact, you can reverse the order of this advice if you like.
From what little I know of your current jetting, your dark plugs may be more related to poor spark. You have a Dyna, but what about the coils and electrical connections and battery/voltages?
Have you verified that ALL connections are clean and tight? That means coil connections, plug caps, primary terminals (check for damaged strands), plug leads condition, harness connections, battery connections and grounds.
What does the spark look like in a darker area? With a clean/fresh NGK B8ES plug, correctly gapped at approx' .027", it should be bluish/white and reasonably "fat" at all 4 plugs. If very faint or orange in color, you have the basic weak spark.
What is battery voltage, running and not running? How much at the coils? If you have an ohm meter, what is the resistance at the primary terminals and the secondary (plug cap to plug cap)?
Connections, especially under certain conditions, can build up corrosion from just sitting. Coils get weak without notice. Battery voltage effects the whole system.
R
rattman1
Guest
Keith,
You must have spent a lot of time on that post!
Thank you so much for your generocity with your time!
I know that I will have questions regarding your directions, but I am going to start from the top of your list and work my way down.
Once again.... THANK YOU!!!!!:-D
You must have spent a lot of time on that post!
Thank you so much for your generocity with your time!
I know that I will have questions regarding your directions, but I am going to start from the top of your list and work my way down.
Once again.... THANK YOU!!!!!:-D
Well, I try to be complete when answering. Some things are more likely than others but I try to mention them.
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
G
Guest
Guest
Once the plugs foul, change them.. You can try cleaning them, but they will only give you fits...