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runs like poo

  • Thread starter Thread starter catbed
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catbed

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i just put my engine back together and fired her up. it ran at full choke only at first, and by ran i mean fired at 1k rpm. full choke. then she ran decently well at 1/4 choke at 2k rpms. if i let choke off all the way, she dies. just did a compression test and it's 110 across the board compared to 150 before i took her apart. i think the valves have seated now but i could be wrong. also, i have an MLS head gasket and there is a gap in the front less than a mm. is this ok? i torqued it down to 27 ft-lbs.

thanks in advance.
 
Dude, I don't have the faintest idea what's wrong with your bike but when I read the title of your thread...........

I L'dMFAO!
 
Last edited:
you better go catch it!


he he.. Maybe your pilot jets are plugged and/or carbs are dirty. Take them out and clean the the carbs and try running it on sea foam too to clean them.
 
Check you have put your carbies on properly.I got old mate to come over when I put my old girl back together and she wouldn't run ,only to have him slap me over the back of the head and show me that the carbs were not fitted into their rubbers properly.Look for easy solutions first.Goodluck.Cheers,Simon.:-D
 
Low compression #s across the board sugest being off a tooth on one of the cam gears. WIthout seeing it couldn't coment on gap
 
every one is a motorcycle mechanic or at least tries to be once

get it to a professional before you shell the whole bugger
 
Go for the easy stuff first:

1. Make sure your carbs are tightly secured to the boots and the boots are tightly secured to the intake runners.
2. Check to insure that there is no blockage in the fuel delivery from the tank to the float bowls - this includes filters, bad petcocks or petcocks where the vacuum line is not attached, and float needle valves that are sticking.
2. Check that all the idle circuit screws on each carb are out the proper amount of turns per the shop manual.
3. Make sure the idle adjust screw is actually adjusted to a point that it does affect the idle when it is screwed in or out.
4. Check ignition and cam timing. Confirm cold valve clearances are with in spec.

Did you re-ring the motor? If that is the case, the lower compression ratio may be a result of the rings not being seated yet.

It's probably something easy.

Don't worry, you won't "shell" the whole bugger.

Hap
 
You can spray starting fluid around the carb boots to check for leaks, but you probably already know that.
 
Lets check a few things.

Airbox and filter in place? You know these bikes need that to work.

Clamps for intake boots and airbox tight?

Fuel flowing properly and is the float level proper in each carb?

Did you replace the screws in the boots for the syncronizing ports? Leave then out and it won't run right.

What is the compression like? Did not see what they were across the board.

If so far so good lets check the timing with a light. It may not be adjustable but it can be verified. Does it advance properly? Check the advance return springs in the mechanism and make sure they return the weights.

Remove the cam cover and recheck the valve timing.

IF it ran good before you disassembled it then the coils and ignitor are probably not suddenly bad.
 
didnt put the airbox back on. oops ill try that today.

the compression is 110 across the board but i didnt do the oil trick yet though.

it doesnt have points so it doesnt have mechanical advance.

and i didnt re-ring it or home the cylinders because it only had 8k miles on it and i didnt think it was necessary.

updates later today(friday)
 
just did another compression test with the oil in the cylinder and no change. i dont think i installed my real gasket correctly because it looks like its squished out a bit and it leaks oil in the front. no change in running though, even with the airbox.
 
it doesnt run like poo now, but still pretty bad. i think the problem is the carbs. i need to get a colortune or something similar so i can get it right, then balance the carbs. i got it to run off of choke for a little bit but that was only after running for a decent chunk of time. the idle is still irregular and sometimes i have to blip the throttle constantly to keep it running.

ordered a new real gasket because i over torqued it. instead of 15 inch-pounds, i torqued it to 6.5 ft-lbs, like the manual said. a little help from the trusty GSR and i found out that 6.5 ft-lbs is for the paper gasket. oops. cant wait to start riding this thing though!
 
it was just a shadow of one of the layers of steel hanging over the other. nothing to worry about.
 
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