Runs well but plugs are sooty black. Why? (GS1000 G)

[Vloukole]

The height is set at about 24mm. This will stop the flow quicker?

 

[chuck hahn]

I usually split whatever the manual states. I made myself a float bowl fuel level gauge and everyone that I have subsequently checked was almost spot on...so much that no further adjustments were warranted. Hope this helps. And yes, fuel level in the bowl will also have an effect on richness or leanness. Fuel levels too low and its running lean ( harder for the vacuum in the venturis to adequately take a drink.

Just the opposite if the fuel levels are too high. Way easier to have the carbs suck too much fuel and runs rich.
Take a soda bottle and fill it right to the rim to simulate an overly high fuel level. Now gently suck on the water and you EASILY get a good amount of water....right?

Now, drop the water level about a half inch down from the very rim and try with the same gentle sucking like before...hardly any water can be sucked up..right? Now you have an understanding of what fuel level in the bowls ( your soda bottle ) do and how they make such a big difference.

 

[Vloukole]

My floats are at 24mm so why are they still so rich/flooding? The needle and seat is brand new so why are the not shutting the flow off?

 

[chuck hahn]

I deleted the previous post.I was thinking something totally different.

Anyway, how do you know they arent shutting off the fuel flow??? If they arent leaking fuel out the overflows or the intake side of the carbs throats it hard to actually know. The only true way to know would be to take the carbs off and make a gauge that would hold the floats at the 24 MMs while the carbs are upright. Tape 3 of the floats up so they dont free flow and start a line and individually check each carb to see if they still drip when the float is pushing up on the needles. I use water to do this then dry the carbs with the air hose before putting the bowls back on.

Follow what I mean here??? Unless you can actually see whats happening its real hard to say with certainty if the needles are leaking or not. Its a pain in the azz to have to do it but its the only way I have came up with to be able to work the floats up and down and for sure visually see that they do in fact act right. I even welded up a stand for VMs and CVs for just this purpose. I set the rack in after removing the bowls, tape 3 floats up, and let the gravity tank flow the water while working each float up and down. If its at the set float ht and theres no seepage I tape it up and move to the next carb and repeat the process. If I find one that seeps I readjust the hts and recheck it till its good. Water is good because its easy to clean up and isnt flammable and expensive. Lay a towel down and check away.

 

[Vloukole]

Fuel is coming from the airbox. Where is the overflow?

 

[chuck hahn]

Over flows are the nipples at the bowl bottoms. By chance, do you have the vents capped off? If so, uncap them. without the abilty to equalise fuel levels to the atmospheric pressure they will screw up and I have seen one such instance that this caused them to overflow out the throats. I uncapped the vents and magically it was a new bike.
The vents are the nipples between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4.

On VM carbs the nipple on carb 3 goes up to the petcock vacuum nipple. On CV carbs the nipple on the back of carb 2 is the petcock suction.

 

[Vloukole]

They are uncapped. Those bolts wont let any fuel through cause they are screwed in. They cant be the overflows.

 

[Vloukole]

Lets say the needle valves are not shutting. How do I fix that?

 

[chuck hahn]

I stand corrected..your right..CV carbs dont have overflows on the bowls. Its been a while and I checked the tutorial here to refresh the memory.

So the vents arent capped or plugged, your seats and needles are new so there shouldnt be an issue there. Float hts are set but they still are leaking out the carb throats. I cant think of anything thats out of sorts other than the floatb hts are still just a little too low to positively shut off the fuel at the float needles.

Is the leaking out all the carbs or just 1 or 2?? To see youd have to remove the airbox and dry the throats to see what ones get wet again.

Honestly float hts is the only thing making sense here to me.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf

 

[chuck hahn]

New rings on the float seats to seal them to the carb bodies??? If they dont seal then fuel can leak past the outer edges of the seat themselves.. bypassing the float needles ability to shut off fuel. Float hts may be fine as well as the needles working fine.....just another thought.

 

[chuck hahn]

On the question of if they arent shutting. The most common thing that makes the needles hang up is the floats dropping to far into the bowls when the bowls are first dry and not floating in gas.

If youll look at the brass bridge thing the hinge is made out of and the floats attach to youll notice theres a little tab thats bent at a 90 degree and that tab lines up with one of the float posts.

This tab is a stop that will let the float drop into the bowls just so far. If the float drops too far, the needle drops past that certain point that will allow it to go back up and it jams up the hinge...follow me?? Also with the floats installed you should be able to visually SEE the tab..if you dont youve installed the floats upside down.

"USUALLY" noone ever messes with the tabs and they are still at whatever the factory set them at and theres never a problem...BUT you cant ever tell what the last guy fiddled with or not.

 

[GSX1000E]

After re-reading this entire thread, I noticed that no where is it mentioned that the O-rings, part number 50 here: http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4031ff8700230d8b4e9e1/carburetor have been replaced yet.
Until they are, these carbs will always leak fuel past the float needles/seats. Every set of CV carbs that I have repaired either had these torn, damaged, dried up and loose, etc. This is the NUMBER ONE reason that these carbs leak fuel.
With your postal problems, hoping that your parts will get to you soon so that you can replace these leakers. Be sure to lubricate them before installation. Silicon spray or something similar really helps as they will go in TIGHT.

 

[chuck hahn]

I had already asked that question of him a few posts back............

 

[Vloukole]

I did receive an o ring in the repair kit but dont know what to do with it. The valve already had an o ring on it and it went in tight. Package had no real description for the o ring or where it must go. The o ring next to the clip...?

 

[GSX1000E]

Yes, that is the one that ALWAYS leaks if it not replaced. You can waste time playing with the needle/seat or float heights until the cows come home but until those are replaced you are shooting yourself in the foot. IME

 

[Vloukole]

Okay great but where do they go?

 

[chuck hahn]

I posted this link earlier but you must not have seen it. And just cause they go in tight doesnt mean they sealed..especially the old ones. They are a 1 use deal. Lubrication helps the slide ion and it ALSO keeps them from snagging and ripping while inserting the seats. They may go in but they may tear in the process too.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf

 

[chuck hahn]

And based on your last question it seems clear you HAVENT torn them down and did a proper cleaning, so I suggest you start from step one, get some Berrymans and do the full 24 HR soaking of the bodies and do them right. And you have effectively wasted your money on those aftermarket kits. Once you read the tutorial youll soon realise that all you needed was the dip, some time, and the Cv (BS CARB) kits from our member robertbarr at his website...........

http://cycleorings.com/

 

[GSX1000E]

Okay great but where do they go?

I was going to say that if you cannot figure that out by looking at the parts fiche, get someone else to do it but, I will allow you to THINK instead.

 

[Vloukole]

Is it the o ring around the valve?