Read the damned tutorial and look at the pictures!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Runs well but plugs are sooty black. Why? (GS1000 G)
- Thread starter Vloukole
- Start date
G
GSX1000E
Guest
You are obviously a lost cause. Does someone help you put on your socks? Eat food?
Did you think that the orings are old and not very pliable after so many years in there!!!! NO!!!!! All your answers have been provided and all the possibilities identified. I dont know whats available for carb dip in SA but PM Flyboy and get his advice as he is down there also.
hate to be so impatient but you gotta meet us half way bro and do some work and listening to what we tell you.
hate to be so impatient but you gotta meet us half way bro and do some work and listening to what we tell you.
Yes there is.....on the adjuster screw on the top rear of the carb . But if you WOULD READ THE TUTORIAL you would have known that!!!!!! The spring goes on the needle, then the little washer, and then the oring. One last time from me..
1..READ the tutorial and familarise yourself with the carbs.
2..If you did not remove the carbs from the rack and dip them and do a full rebuild your spinning your wheels and are NEVER gonna get the desired response from them
3.. After market kits are JUNK!!!!! And you dont need anything other than the oring kit from cycleorings that I posted in the link previously.
4..On the Bikecliffs Website home page is a selection of manuals..get yourself one downloaded.
1..READ the tutorial and familarise yourself with the carbs.
2..If you did not remove the carbs from the rack and dip them and do a full rebuild your spinning your wheels and are NEVER gonna get the desired response from them
3.. After market kits are JUNK!!!!! And you dont need anything other than the oring kit from cycleorings that I posted in the link previously.
4..On the Bikecliffs Website home page is a selection of manuals..get yourself one downloaded.
Then there is only ONE other place a BIGGER oring is used on a rack of carbs other than the float seats. What did your reading reveal???? HINT...Its fuel delivery related.
EDIT...2 places if we are counting the choke plungers too.
EDIT...2 places if we are counting the choke plungers too.
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Tiny oring on the mixture screws. Big oring on the float seats that you said were on them when you got them. Big ( 10 or 12 mm diameter ) thinner durometer oring on the choke plungers...4 required. Big ( little thicker than the choke plunger ones ) on the fuel tee and the transfer tubes that carry fuel between the carb bowls...12 required.
Dont be mad at me!!! The tutorial has clear and precise directions and pictures of everything. We have spoon fed you all the answers and provided you with a website with the tutorial and manuals and its our fault. OK. You havent read ****t and you havent taken the carbs apart..otherwise you wouldnt be fighting and asking these questions.
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You never answered my question about if its all the carbs leaking out the airbox side or just 1 or 2??? Have you taken the airbox off and wiped the faces down and then sat to see what get wet again???
I am throwing you what I would do to determine whats what here. Its vastly a different situation if all are doing it versus just 1 or 2. And without EXACTING DETAIL from you its like grabbing for clouds at this point. So, lets start anew.
Take the tank off so you can see the carbs well. Next take the airbox off and wipe the carbs out in the faces and around the bodies and bowls then sit and see what get wet again and report that back. While your looking at the carbs for what gets wet again also look at the fuel tubes that run between the carb bowls and the fuel tee the fuel line hooks to to see they arent the source of some wetness too
I want you to be trouble free but we need to back the whole thing up and get full details. I know its a pain in the arse but what else is there to do but go back to square 1.
I am throwing you what I would do to determine whats what here. Its vastly a different situation if all are doing it versus just 1 or 2. And without EXACTING DETAIL from you its like grabbing for clouds at this point. So, lets start anew.
Take the tank off so you can see the carbs well. Next take the airbox off and wipe the carbs out in the faces and around the bodies and bowls then sit and see what get wet again and report that back. While your looking at the carbs for what gets wet again also look at the fuel tubes that run between the carb bowls and the fuel tee the fuel line hooks to to see they arent the source of some wetness too
I want you to be trouble free but we need to back the whole thing up and get full details. I know its a pain in the arse but what else is there to do but go back to square 1.
J
Joe Guilbeau
Guest
Vioukole, we are not with you to oversee how these carbs look. Can you post some pictures and go into a bit more detail?
Reading your posts, it is not clear if the the directions on Ed Ness's tutorial were followed. I am an electronics technician and by no means a mechanic. Yet I was able to print out the required pages from the tutorial, place them on a bench and within 2 weeks got the carbs spot on. Experienced carb rebuilders can do this in only a few hours.
Communications with the collective on this site will get you where you need to be, however we need more than "...I did everything the way the turorial said and it is still not working..."
Something like, "...I pulled off the bowls on each carb, and replaced the gaskets, checked the main jets (mine are #?), after getting a gallon of carb cleaner from the local parts house, I dipped all the carbs in the basket as shown in the tutorial and used a small wire to clean all orifices, used carb cleaner spray to clean out all of the passages..."
Those of us who have actually completed this may be skeptical that these steps were completed per the instructions in the tutorial. Take some pictures of your carbs that have been cleaned and describe what you have done so that we can assist you with the completion.
We are all busy and yet we are still here after 15 pages of single sentence posts that do not do much to describe what, if anything was done. I say this because if, in reality; you did everything the way the tutorial said...then, my friend, your bike would be running great!
Reading your posts, it is not clear if the the directions on Ed Ness's tutorial were followed. I am an electronics technician and by no means a mechanic. Yet I was able to print out the required pages from the tutorial, place them on a bench and within 2 weeks got the carbs spot on. Experienced carb rebuilders can do this in only a few hours.
Communications with the collective on this site will get you where you need to be, however we need more than "...I did everything the way the turorial said and it is still not working..."
Something like, "...I pulled off the bowls on each carb, and replaced the gaskets, checked the main jets (mine are #?), after getting a gallon of carb cleaner from the local parts house, I dipped all the carbs in the basket as shown in the tutorial and used a small wire to clean all orifices, used carb cleaner spray to clean out all of the passages..."
Those of us who have actually completed this may be skeptical that these steps were completed per the instructions in the tutorial. Take some pictures of your carbs that have been cleaned and describe what you have done so that we can assist you with the completion.
We are all busy and yet we are still here after 15 pages of single sentence posts that do not do much to describe what, if anything was done. I say this because if, in reality; you did everything the way the tutorial said...then, my friend, your bike would be running great!
That what I am sayin!!!!!!! Thank you for your post too.
With the tank off you will of course need to supply fuel to the fuel line to do some looking around. This can be done 1 of 2 ways. Make an auxillary fuel tank or run a long line from the bike tank on the bench to the carbs and set the petcock to the PRIme posiition so fuel will flow.
OR you can make the aux tank with simple store shelf items. A universal coolant resevoir from any parts store and a few ft of 1/4 inch fuel line..a small engine shut off valve, and a double ended barbed nipple. Heres the tank I made for less than 15 bucks tops. Assemslbe the parts and just plug into the bikes fuel line. suspend from the handle bars with a cord or some tip ties.
OR you can make the aux tank with simple store shelf items. A universal coolant resevoir from any parts store and a few ft of 1/4 inch fuel line..a small engine shut off valve, and a double ended barbed nipple. Heres the tank I made for less than 15 bucks tops. Assemslbe the parts and just plug into the bikes fuel line. suspend from the handle bars with a cord or some tip ties.
