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rust in tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Only shake on the first rinse.

Only shake on the first rinse.

I think some people are confused about the shaking of the tank. You are only going to put stuff in the tank and shake it during the first rinse. Once you start using the Acid, and Acetone, you won't be doing any shaking. I could go on for a while with little tips for using Kreem, but if you don't have the mechanical knowledge of how to safely plan to use chemicals like these dont bother.
 
Are you talking light surface rust, or "real" crusty rust? Because I've had some light surface rust in the upper portion of my tank for years, and never had a problem. As long as I keep the tank pretty full, the rust never has a chance to grow. It's never been a problem. And it's never gotten any worse.
 
A few of you have said to make sure it's warm when using something like Kreem. How warm are we talking?
 
Don't use Kreem !!
Don't use Kreem !!!!!!!!
Don't use Kreem!!!!!!!!!

POR 15 is a much better product.

If you are stubborn and use kreem anyway, do not,
never, under any circumstance put any gas treatments
in you gas because it will soften the stuff and
gunk up your petcock, fuel line and carbs.

POR15 is totally impervious to fuel additives..

I almost had to toss a gas tank because of Kreem.
I have other people tell me the same.

Peace
Mo
 
Is there a temperature limitation with POR 15? I'd like to do this soon but the high's are only in the low to mid-40s where I live and I don't want to do this indoors.
 
POR15 is a moisture reactive aluminum loaded
urethane, it is much more dependent on moisture
than temp for cure, but I can't recall if they suggest a minimum temp.

Peace
Mo
 
Re: Por 15 product

Re: Por 15 product

KrazyKarl02 said:
I did a tank off of a Kawasaki and found a product that I believe works better than kreem. POR 15 makes a good little kit, it comes with a degreaser, a solvent to eat away the old tank sealing, a rust eater, and a tank sealant. The only thing I found it needed was maybe some acetone. After you eat the rust off you must rinse with water and then dry. I found this stage to cause a lot of flash rust. If you rinse with acetone, the acetone will evaporate and the surface will be ready to be sealed.
Click to expand...

Isn't acetone highly flammable?

8O
Dm of mD
 
listen up dudes, dont spend a dime over $50.00. This tank coating is the biggest rip-off. Call a few radiator repair shops until you find one that will do it for the $50.00 or less. I had mine done for $40.00, that included cleaning the tank and all materials. I took one day.
 
I did mine with the POR-15. It took a while but I have been pleased with the results. Also allowed me to finally get my carbs straightened out, as they are no longer filling up with rust particles. Turned out the little inline filter was NOT catching the teeny rust bits and they were filling the carb bowls.

Kurt Kesler
 
What I have read on the KZ400 forum and I am going to try next week when I get a chance to work on my GS650GL, is putting a couple hundred BB's in the tank and wraping it up in padding. When the wife is away put it in the dryer with enough padding to keep it from moving and letting it tumble for 30 min. NO HEAT.

We will see if this works.

:-k
 
torgo said:
What I have read on the KZ400 forum and I am going to try next week when I get a chance to work on my GS650GL, is putting a couple hundred BB's in the tank and wraping it up in padding. When the wife is away put it in the dryer with enough padding to keep it from moving and letting it tumble for 30 min. NO HEAT.

We will see if this works.

:-k
Click to expand...
lol, I knew there had to be an automotive use for a dryer.
 
torgo said:
... I am going to try next week when I get a chance to work on my GS650GL, is putting a couple hundred BB's in the tank and wraping it up in padding. When the wife is away put it in the dryer with enough padding to keep it from moving and letting it tumble for 30 min. NO HEAT.
Click to expand...
A friend of mine has done this by wrapping the tank in old carpet, then wedging it into a portable cement mixer and letting it run for a while. You have to re-arrange it so the material inside runs in a couple of different directions, but it works well.

.
 
I just cleaned the tank for my 550E using muriatic acid and drywall screws. I think the screws might not have been necessary because when I poured out the acid and rinsed the inside it looked like new metal. Now here's the kicker.. since it took me 20 min to retrieve all the screws the tank started to rust again. I should have used compressed air to blow out the tank and immediately coated the inside with wd-40 then retrieved the screws and it would have stayed nice. Muriatic acid is mean s#!t, wear gloves, wear goggles and do it outside and be safe! Baking soda will neutralize it. It will fizz something fierce while in the tank and with the baking soda. I used an old gas cap I didn't care about and have a hose ready to rinse off whatever hits the outside of the tank or kiss your paint goodbye.
Nate
 
torgo said:
What I have read on the KZ400 forum and I am going to try next week when I get a chance to work on my GS650GL, is putting a couple hundred BB's in the tank and wraping it up in padding. When the wife is away put it in the dryer with enough padding to keep it from moving and letting it tumble for 30 min. NO HEAT.

We will see if this works.

:-k
Click to expand...

WOW! A 4 year old revived post.
 
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