saving the oil?

[Carter Turk]

Put a 2 x 6 or 4 on top of a 4 x 4 piece of wood, roll the front wheel up and I doubt much if any oil would drain out.
I melted my oil cooler lines 250 miles from home on the exhaust pipe, found a suitable hill to push the front tire on, clicked into 1st
and went about changing the lines.

 

[bwringer]

Couple of notes on o-rings since the oil question has been handled:

1) An OEM o-ring fits best and will always fit. Any others are a crapshoot. Some fit, most don't, and there's little consistency.

2) You can re-use the o-ring through several oil changes. I usually only change mine every year or two, or when it starts looking flat.

3) OEM oil filters are surprisingly cheap -- only $4.50 each through my usual parts source. The fiche looks like it includes an o-ring, but I believe that's incorrect -- that part number 16510-45040 only gets you a filter. The o-ring is only $4.15. Of course, if you walk into your local dealer and make the parts monkey wake up, then you'll likely pay two or three times as much.

 

[Boriqua]

I sure do like the price on that T6. Should I be concerned about the 5W in the Arizona heat. Seems fine for our winter but how about when its 115 degrees. Hope the concensus says it will be fine because its 22 bucks at walmart for a gallon!!

 

[Nessism]

I sure do like the price on that T6. Should I be concerned about the 5W in the Arizona heat. Seems fine for our winter but how about when its 115 degrees. Hope the concensus says it will be fine because its 22 bucks at walmart for a gallon!!

The "W" is the cold temp rating. It has nothing to do with how the oil performs at high temp. That's what the second number, 40 in this instance, is all about.

 

[salty_monk]

Do a wheelie...

 

[Boriqua]

Just an FYI ... the Hiflo came with a substantially thicker gasket and problem solved. No leaks.

I put a small piece of 3/4 ply under my center stand and then shoved a 2/4 and 1/2 under the front wheel so the bike tipped back on its rear wheel and I lost maybe 1/4 cup of oil.

 

[limeex2]

Did this turn in to an Oil thread? FWIW Rotella T is the Dino oil and is now rebranded as Rotella T4. T5 is Semi-Syn and T6 is full synthetic, or what passes for it these days. T4 and T6 are JASO approved, T5 is not. I run T6 but am going to switch to Brad Penn in the dragbike. Some of you might remember the original Kendall GT1, it was green and stunk to high heaven, it stuck to parts like glue. LOADS of ZDDP. That is Brad Penn now, named after the former Kendall refinery in Bradford, Pennsylvania where it is still made using the original formula. It is $90 for a 12 QT case +/-. We swore by it back in the offshore powerboat racing days, it would hold up for 90 minutes at full throttle.

Save the oil. Just ran back to back oil changes in my Triumph's. Kendall GT1 then Rotella T5. Rotella hands down. I ran GT1 way back when and it was good m/c oil. Use small dabs of grease to hold o-rings place.

If you are getting leaks with hoflo o-rings, change filter brands or go oem. Cost more but always works