Say no to extractors!!!!!

[bluepinner]

I have an exhaust bolt that snapped off flush to the head. Everything was going fine with the drilling. I went to the bathroom and my father can only say sorry. He used an extractor after I told him they were junk. Guess what?? It snapped off inside the bolt in the head. I have tried everything to drill into and around but nothing is working. I know he was trying to help but he is by far the worst backyard mechanic in the work.

Sorry just had to rant.

The morale of the story............ DON'T USE EXTRACTORS ON BROKEN BOLTS!

 

[Allie]

NOW you tell me.... They are the most evilest device imaginable.

 

[TooManyToys]

They tend to be hardened steel so drilling is out. Sometimes with sharp needle nose you get some twist back and forth, loosening them so they be pulled out. Sometimes light tapping with a small ball peen can vibrate them loose.

The Option of Last Resort is Electrical-Discharge Machining.

Whenever I have a broken bolt the first thing I go to is my set or reverse fluted drill bits, a set I bought many years ago from McMaster. I've often found that during the process of drilling counterclockwise in larger steps often at some point grabs the broken segment and just unscrews it out of the hole.

 

[Guest]

I've been extractor clean for many moons.
Now drill bits? Thats another story.
Ya cant drill em.

Bust it out!!

 

[bonanzadave]

Put a good grade 8 nut on the broken stud and weld it on. The heat from the welder should loosen it enough that it should turn out with a wrench.


I still use EZ Outs. Gotta use good ones. Cheap tools are just that.

 

[Billy Ricks]

You may be able to use a nail punch and chip away at the extractor.

 

[Smokinapankake]

I've used ammonia to break the bond between aluminum bicycle seatposts and steel frames. In theory it should be the same for aluminum heads and steel exhaust bolts. The ammonia attacks the aluminum, eating it away. Don't use too much, and flush immediately.
This has worked for me on my 84 Katana exhaust bolts as well, freeing 3 frozen bolts. I then drilled and tapped for Heli-coils, and now use anti-sieze on every bolt I install, exhaust or not...

Good luck!

 

[Hammered]

I know its an after the fact kinda thing but the best method for removing a flush to sub flush screw/bolt is with penetrating oil, an impact screw driver and a light/controlled blow from a hammer. I have a couple trashed standard bits. I bevel grind them a taste to cut in the broken bolt. Knock on wood, ts worked so far. Course I also use the freezing penetrating oil to help. A couple taps from the hammer via a drive pin, helps loosen any galling, scale of rust.

 

[Jethro]

I've had great luck with extractors. Gotta make sure, like EXTRA sure you are using the biggest possible size you can. Best to be drilling a hole in the broken bolt that almost reaches the threads. As said before, get real good ones, and also use real good drill bits that cut clean. Little blast from the torch, little cutting oil and voila, they come right out for me.

 

[Guest]

You may be able to use a nail punch and chip away at the extractor.

That what I did.

 

[Billy Ricks]

That what I did.

I had to once too. Should have just drilled and tapped the broken off bolt. I ended up doing that after getting the extractor out.

 

[Guest]

I had to once too. Should have just drilled and tapped the broken off bolt. I ended up doing that after getting the extractor out.

I used a center punch on a broken a tap.
Tedious but it worked.

 

[Billy Ricks]

I used a center punch on a broken a tap.
Tedious but it worked.

You have all the luck huh?

 

[Guest]

You have all the luck huh?

Ah, no.. If I did a center punch wouldnt have been an issue.

But then again, only broke one. So, maybe you're right.
Yeah, lucky!!

 

[kochic]

Put a good grade 8 nut on the broken stud and weld it on. The heat from the welder should loosen it enough that it should turn out with a wrench.


I still use EZ Outs. Gotta use good ones. Cheap tools are just that.

This is the easiest method when you have access to a welding machine.
I use this method, it's fast and easy.
I work on snow plows and with all the calcium and salt deposits, every nut and bolt jams together. I use this method when I have a broken bolt or stripped head.

They sell special welding rods for that purpose.

Marc

 

[Guest]

And after you get those broken exhaust bolts out replace them with studs not bolts so hopefully you don't have to go through this again. I always replace with studs:lol:

 

[bluepinner]

found a used head on ebay for $20. Was thinking about getting that one instead.

 

[beergood]

I did the exact same thing about three years ago. I bought a used head, and now the old head sits on a shelf in my garage. It still has the extractor sitting in it.

 

[Guest]

This is the easiest method when you have access to a welding machine.
I use this method, it's fast and easy.
I work on snow plows and with all the calcium and salt deposits, every nut and bolt jams together. I use this method when I have a broken bolt or stripped head.

They sell special welding rods for that purpose.

Marc

I do have a welder but had no luck with this method.

 

[Dodik]

Well i just found out why i was missing one of the bolts on the header, look like a broken drill bit about 1/4" inside the head , not sure what to do as the hole is pretty small to tap the bit but will have to try it anyway i guess.