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Scotchbrite and aluminimum question ?

bccap

bccap

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I have seen people talking about various scotchbrite colors used for bike cleaning. The only one I am familiar with is green and used on my frying pan.
Could someone enlighten me and do you buy them in housewares or a hardware store. Also what is the best way to polish out the scratches I put in my side cover when I stupidly let it drop off the side stand.
aluminumcover.jpg
 
Sorry, don't know about the Scotchbrite, but those scratches will come out with wet sanding and lots of elbow grease, my pick ups cover had a few deep scratches from being dropped and I wet sanded it back to a mirror finish.
I think I started with 360 or 420 grit then to 600 and then 1000 grit ended off with 1500 grit and polished with red rouge.
Hope that helps.
 
Is not the centre "Suzuki" thingy a replaceable metal sticker? Then you just have to deal with the case surface around it, good advice already, gradually finer wet sanding, and, finally, some time on the polishing wheel.

Buggah, we've all dealt with similar "oopsies".....
 
Scotchbrite pads are very useful. The best ones can be purchased at an auto paint store. Red ones replicate a 400 grit finish, and the gray ones 600 grit. To get those scratches out of your engine cover, get wet/dry sand papers and use lots of water. I agree with Flyboy, but you may need to start with something a little more aggressive like 80-100 grit on a sanding block to get them smoothed out. After that go to 180, then 320, 400, 600, 1,000 and then 1,500 grits followed by a polishing pad on a drill with Mother's mag polish. A sheet of each grit will only set you back about 6-7 bux total. It'll shine up just like new.
 
Runningdog said:
Is not the centre "Suzuki" thingy a replaceable metal sticker? Then you just have to deal with the case surface around it, good advice already, gradually finer wet sanding, and, finally, some time on the polishing wheel.

Buggah, we've all dealt with similar "oopsies".....
Click to expand...

Thats not a plate, thats a casting imprint sorry to say. Scotch pads are used to dull a surface like when you are doing fork seals or want a brushed finished on maybe a swingarm or simular. Using with polish comes up good. Did my CR swing arm that way.
 
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Runningdog said:
Is not the centre "Suzuki" thingy a replaceable metal sticker? Then you just have to deal with the case surface around it, good advice already, gradually finer wet sanding, and, finally, some time on the polishing wheel.

Buggah, we've all dealt with similar "oopsies".....
Click to expand...
It's a 83 750E,all one peice.I my know,got 3 of these:D
 
"It's a 83 750E,all one peice."

I looked at the original photo, and that's what I thought, but, not being familiar with newer bikes........fell back on what I know.....
 
Runningdog said:
"It's a 83 750E,all one peice."

I looked at the original photo, and that's what I thought, but, not being familiar with newer bikes........fell back on what I know.....
Click to expand...
Not a problem,kind of watch these bikes for obvious reasons:D
 
I now have a plan for the aluminum and the paint. What I don't have a plan for is this. Battery acid damage. Any suggestions ?
acidonpipe.jpg
 
That one is a lot tougher.That's why nobody has answered you,No easy solutions I know about.:(
 
Yeah, the best idea I have had is Ceramic at Rocket Cermacoat. The best idea I can get from their price list is about $150 for the pair. The original finish was easily scratched. I don't know how durable ceramics are. I guess there is always barbecue paint.
 
bccap said:
Yeah, the best idea I have had is Ceramic at Rocket Cermacoat. The best idea I can get from their price list is about $150 for the pair. The original finish was easily scratched. I don't know how durable ceramics are. I guess there is always barbecue paint.
Click to expand...
Those ceramic coats are supposed to be good.Have a link to them? Second thought I'll Google it,if you link to that would be nice.
 
Thanks,was looking a while back but couldn't find one.Think I'll ask my friend if there's a place on the Island doing it.Doubt it but.....
 
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I agree that those gouges will take starting with 80 or 100 grit to remove. I would just like to pass along a tip I got from a guy who polishes aluminum for a living. Once you have a nice smooth, uniform surface wet sanding with anything above 400 grit is a waste of time (on aluminum). Once you have prepped the surface with 400 grit, just go strait to a cloth wheel and a good quality polishing compound.
 
White Scotch-Brite

White Scotch-Brite

Hi, I am no Scotch-Brite expert, but; there are several different types of Scotch-Brite, each with a different purpose. The type found at auto parts stores are similar to sandpaper. Which is useful if you want to take off the surface. It will scratch though (like sandpaper or steel wool). The green scotchbrite, often used in kitchens, will dull most finishes as well. There is also blue - less abrasive yet. Now if you have badly tarnished or dull aluminum or chrome, use White Scotch-Brite, with your favorite metal polish. It's more abrasive than a cloth or most buffing wheels, but it will not scratch. Even safe for glass.
I did a quick search, technically known as: 3M 98 Scotch-Brite Light-Duty Cleansing Pad
Not cheep, and they do wear out quickly. But I like them for many applications.

PS I agree with GS Jim. Those gouges it the original post will take something like 100 grit, but then you will have to buff it to get rid of the sanded look.
 
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